northeast dynosty build aps tt
#261
350Z-holic
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Im still trying to figure out how the Haltech does those things. I've noticed on mine that it runs perfect when the weather is cool but struggles some to idle when hot outside but the A/F at idle doesn't change hot vs cold. I've also noticed the wiseband O2 sensor sees around 11.6-1 when cold and 11.3-1 when hot. Like something is not compensating for intake air temp. But I'm not 100% sure that's the issue as I have fixed 2 minor boost leaks and haven't logged since. I also want to figure out how to make the ecu auto log without having the laptop hooked up. I'd like to be able to pull a log on a pass without having to manually record it. I'm still learning the Haltech and those are the 2 things I know nothing about with it.
The idle may be something with your intake air temp compensation tables
I don't know that the ecu will autolog ... I think you have one or two generations past mine and it seems that I have a limited amount of data storage for logging. I've adjusted sensor sampling rates and turned sensors off but I think I can only log 2hrs worth of data before I run out of storage (which is ok with me - I don't log that much anyways).
#262
New Member
iTrader: (1)
Ya i agree theres definately a cause for what happened here that has nothing to do with the build of the engine.
On the dyno and on the street I can say 4th gear afs were always 11.8-12.0 range ....Hal had set a very um rough ? mild? (maybe the wrong word to use) boost by gear on the dyno. He never actually did pulls with it through all the gears. He was just going to adjust the boost by gear after seeing logs from the track after butt well this happened ...
So you could say it was never "tuned" for boost by gear so maybe thats why it was in the 13s ?....in 4th you can see how the afs were comming back down to 12.0 ....I'm talking out of my a$$ here, i'm just throwing **** out there but am I right in saying that the boost by gear needs to be tuned?
On the dyno and on the street I can say 4th gear afs were always 11.8-12.0 range ....Hal had set a very um rough ? mild? (maybe the wrong word to use) boost by gear on the dyno. He never actually did pulls with it through all the gears. He was just going to adjust the boost by gear after seeing logs from the track after butt well this happened ...
So you could say it was never "tuned" for boost by gear so maybe thats why it was in the 13s ?....in 4th you can see how the afs were comming back down to 12.0 ....I'm talking out of my a$$ here, i'm just throwing **** out there but am I right in saying that the boost by gear needs to be tuned?
11.8-12 still seems a little aggressive for a VQ on 20 psi, I shoot for something closer to 11-11.5 at that boost level, running it leaner leaves very little margin for error, plus engine runs a little cooler, etc. Obviously you were having a much more serious issue than just a slightly lean/aggressive AFR mixture but it's something I'd consider in the future.
Last edited by thatv35guy; 07-03-2018 at 12:45 PM.
#263
I'm pretty confident my ECU has 40 minutes worth of log capability. Ill never need that much at most id need 5-10 minutes after sitting in the staging lanes. I wasnt sure If the Haltech had the auto log feature or not im guessing it probably does not. Another feature I'd like to figure out or see if the Haltech has is working on maps off line. I hate the fact that I have to be plugged into the car to make adjustments. I will be switching to E85 and bigger injectors pretty soon and I'd really like to be able to go through the fuel and timing maps in the comfort of my home.
#264
New Member
iTrader: (1)
Im still trying to figure out how the Haltech does those things. I've noticed on mine that it runs perfect when the weather is cool but struggles some to idle when hot outside but the A/F at idle doesn't change hot vs cold. I've also noticed the wiseband O2 sensor sees around 11.6-1 when cold and 11.3-1 when hot. Like something is not compensating for intake air temp. But I'm not 100% sure that's the issue as I have fixed 2 minor boost leaks and haven't logged since. I also want to figure out how to make the ecu auto log without having the laptop hooked up. I'd like to be able to pull a log on a pass without having to manually record it. I'm still learning the Haltech and those are the 2 things I know nothing about with it.
I think there's a way to track the % of correction in the log too so you'll be able to see exactly what compensation your ECU's making. Think the channel is Fuel - Cool Temp Corr and Ignition - Cool Temp Corr, should give you a % value.
Edit: Maybe we should have a new FI VQ tuning thread?
#265
Would be down for that tuning thread. I'm sure all of us have some knowledge in different areas and putting that knowledge in one place would definitely not be a bad idea.
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thatv35guy (07-03-2018)
#266
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Sorry Silva for hijacking your thread ...
just a good place to chat about these issues for sure!
just a good place to chat about these issues for sure!
Last edited by bealljk; 07-03-2018 at 02:31 PM.
#268
Kind of wondering what you’re all targeting for your AFR?
11.8-12 still seems a little aggressive for a VQ on 20 psi, I shoot for something closer to 11-11.5 at that boost level, running it leaner leaves very little margin for error, plus engine runs a little cooler, etc. Obviously you were having a much more serious issue than just a slightly lean/aggressive AFR mixture but it's something I'd consider in the future.
[img] https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/454271d1527726121-northeast-dynosty-build-aps-tt-high_octane_target_afr.jpg
11.8-12 still seems a little aggressive for a VQ on 20 psi, I shoot for something closer to 11-11.5 at that boost level, running it leaner leaves very little margin for error, plus engine runs a little cooler, etc. Obviously you were having a much more serious issue than just a slightly lean/aggressive AFR mixture but it's something I'd consider in the future.
[img] https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/454271d1527726121-northeast-dynosty-build-aps-tt-high_octane_target_afr.jpg
#270
Your fuel map is solely based on load/boost psi and rpm. If your running the same amount of boost in a different gear and have a problem with log data in one gear vs another lets say 3rd and 4th there is most likely a mechanical problem via fuel psi injection ignition ect. Unless boost increased in 4th over 3rd and your fuel map isnt setup correctly for the higher boost level.
Last edited by silva350z; 07-03-2018 at 05:08 PM.
#271
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Edit:
Main Setup > Data Logging Side Tab > Channel Activation check box (and set up parameter)
Gonna try it today - thanks Silva!
Last edited by bealljk; 07-04-2018 at 08:43 AM.
#272
New Member
iTrader: (18)
Im still trying to figure out how the Haltech does those things. I've noticed on mine that it runs perfect when the weather is cool but struggles some to idle when hot outside but the A/F at idle doesn't change hot vs cold. I've also noticed the wiseband O2 sensor sees around 11.6-1 when cold and 11.3-1 when hot. Like something is not compensating for intake air temp. But I'm not 100% sure that's the issue as I have fixed 2 minor boost leaks and haven't logged since. I also want to figure out how to make the ecu auto log without having the laptop hooked up. I'd like to be able to pull a log on a pass without having to manually record it. I'm still learning the Haltech and those are the 2 things I know nothing about with it.
#273
Hey guys so update.. i got the motor back from dynosty last thursday then went away for the weekend and when i came back i got right to it. Took advantage of the holiday and got it back in the car along with the turbo setup and exhaust on monday ! Car is mostly put together just have to button up the front end and then its ready to roll again ! Should be driving it again by the weekend. I put another spring in the wastegate so gate psi can be at least 15lbs now. Also adding fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors this time! I got the fancy haltech can gauge so I can be warned of anything when im driving instead of having to look at my laptop later. I'll be taking the trip to Hal in 3 weeks to get the car retuned on more boost. This should give me some time to break the motor in and make sure there arnt any issues before I make the long trip.
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thatv35guy (09-05-2018)
#275
Well I got the car started yesturday ! I bled the coolant and went through a couple of heat cycles and changed the oil. I took it for a ride around the block and everything seemed good but then all of a sudden when I got back and had the car idling it sounded like I had a misfire as if there was a bad coil but the haltech wasn't throwing any codes. I was going to pull the coils out one by one to see if I could find a bad coil but then the misfire stopped and car was fine. I was going to try to take it for another ride around the block to see if it would happen again but then my clutch started grabbing high all the way at the top so I just called it a night. I think the fluid is getting too hot. Later if I start the car and its grabbing at the bottom I'll know heat is the problem. I have the line double wrapped and I'm using motul 660. I'm not sure what else I can do to keep the line cool. The 4in downpipe right next to it isn't helping. Anyway, is there anything I could check with the haltech to compare the coils to each other or anything? It suxs that I won't be able to physically check them until the car misfires again.
#276
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
You could also look at your battery voltage...
I ran into / running into / hopefully ran through these chicken shet mis-fire / non-fire and thinking long and hard (last time I was at the drags) I believe my 60amp mini-alternator isn't cutting it. Running the 60amp alternator I would see 13-14 volts consistently and with my OEM I'm closer to 14-15 volts...
doesn't seem like a lot but if you're drawing a healthy amount of current during hard pulls and the juice isn't there than somethings gotta give.
I'll keep my thread updated on the alternator diagnosis
#277
New Member
iTrader: (1)
Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to test an ignition coil pack on our cars and it is very possible to have a bad coil pack that won't trigger a cylinder specific or random misfire OBD code. Won't help at idle, but I'll look at RPM during a WOT pull and check for any consistent spikes in RPM, that's usually a good indicator of an ignition related misfire.
After you put the car back together did you check for vacuum leaks/smoke test?
After you put the car back together did you check for vacuum leaks/smoke test?
Last edited by thatv35guy; 09-10-2018 at 09:37 AM.
#278
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
#279
I found it ! Went to start the car yesterday and luckily it started to misfire again so i started pulling the coils and number 4 coil was the culprit. I had a spare coil and threw it in and that did the trick no more misfire ! I'm wondering if that coil was originally in cylinder 2 when motor blew. Makes me wonder if this was the cause.
Thanks for the input tho guys! Its nice having ppl that care and try to help!
I think I got the clutch pedal figured out too ...stupid me just left the nut loose on the pedal lol. I tightened it and drove the car around and it didnt move on me anymore. Grabing at the bottom as it should .
Im going to break the motor in on the dyno later today and do some heavy monitoring of fuel pressure to make sure car isnt going lean .
Thanks for the input tho guys! Its nice having ppl that care and try to help!
I think I got the clutch pedal figured out too ...stupid me just left the nut loose on the pedal lol. I tightened it and drove the car around and it didnt move on me anymore. Grabing at the bottom as it should .
Im going to break the motor in on the dyno later today and do some heavy monitoring of fuel pressure to make sure car isnt going lean .
#280
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^badasss ... happy to hear it was something simple -