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An ignition coil couldnt possibly be the cause of your engine failure. When they fail they simply stop working and wont ignite the mixture and theres just a misfire. Also almost every aftermarket ecu will not detect misfires or should I say set the cel because of a misfire. If you legitimately had a bad coil I would look into buying a full set. Heres my $.02 i would pull your injectors and have them flow benched and cleaned. I have a buddy that has a machine. I just found a random misfire in my car using the bench. I had an intermittent misfire and found a bad injector adapter clip that came with the injectors. I could wiggle the adapter and get it to shut the injector off on the bench. I contacted Deatschwerks and they have a new one in the mail for me. Id hate to see u lose another short block because of an injector man. Especially running E85 and the car sitting for prolonged amounts of time that is very hard on injectors.
An ignition coil couldnt possibly be the cause of your engine failure. When they fail they simply stop working and wont ignite the mixture and theres just a misfire. Also almost every aftermarket ecu will not detect misfires or should I say set the cel because of a misfire. If you legitimately had a bad coil I would look into buying a full set. Heres my $.02 i would pull your injectors and have them flow benched and cleaned. I have a buddy that has a machine. I just found a random misfire in my car using the bench. I had an intermittent misfire and found a bad injector adapter clip that came with the injectors. I could wiggle the adapter and get it to shut the injector off on the bench. I contacted Deatschwerks and they have a new one in the mail for me. Id hate to see u lose another short block because of an injector man. Especially running E85 and the car sitting for prolonged amounts of time that is very hard on injectors.
I learned this as well and agree wholeheartedly with TT03Z. Ethanol is hard on injectors, I daily drove mine for about a year on them and it killed one of my injectors out of the blue. I would also suggest running pump gas thru your fuel system every few months or if you know your car is gonna sit a while with Ethanol in the tank, just remove the injectors completely and submerge/soak them in a container with some regular fuel in it, then reinstall when ur ready to go.
Lucas Ethanol fuel additive has worked well for me. Few ounces needed per fill up. Car sits for a couple months in winter and for weeks at a time when I travel. Knock on wood, no trouble running only e85 going on several years now.
So i got the car on the dyno the other day but i didnt realise how long 100 miles would take to break the motor in lol so i ended up taking it off and i have been driving it in the street not going into boost tho . just giveing it some verying rpm , down shifting, giving it some load .
I'm running 93 pump in it right now. This car will always be on pump as i drive it everyday. The ignite will only be for track days.
so far ive put 150 miles on it. I went to take it this morning after i gave it a much needed wash and noticed my afrs were rich cruising and idling (looking at aem guage , i dont have haltech gauge hooked up yet) normally they are in the 14s . i had my laptop hooked up so i could monitor everything as i drive and wanted to compare to haltech wideband but it was dead again .... I can't blame 2 step this time cuz i havnt hit it.
I don't know what to do to keep these things from dieing. I'm going to pull the exhaust down and place the bung higher up so the condensation doesnt settle on the new sensor when i put it in. This suxs cuz i was planning to take it to the dyno to do a test pull to see how fuel pressure was but now i can't.
Okay so turns out sensor was fine all along. The pins in the plug on the harness for my haltech wideband controller were all corroded(back when I had the car out the first time on the built motor on the tt setup I forgot to put rubber grommet in that keeps water from getting inside the car. When it had rained one day I noticed the carpet was wet inside and firgured out why but I didn't think to check if my controller had gotten wet. I'm thinking this is how the pins were corroded) . I repinned the wires and boom I had afrs on the haltech again. Without the wideband car would be super rich it would idle in the 10s-11's. I'm wondering what it does wide open? Maybe this is what hurt the motor? With the wideband back, car idles in the 14s now as it should.
Okay so turns out sensor was fine all along. The pins in the plug on the harness for my haltech wideband controller were all corroded(back when I had the car out the first time on the built motor on the tt setup I forgot to put rubber grommet in that keeps water from getting inside the car. When it had rained one day I noticed the carpet was wet inside and firgured out why but I didn't think to check if my controller had gotten wet. I'm thinking this is how the pins were corroded) . I repinned the wires and boom I had afrs on the haltech again. Without the wideband car would be super rich it would idle in the 10s-11's. I'm wondering what it does wide open? Maybe this is what hurt the motor? With the wideband back, car idles in the 14s now as it should.
I'm pretty positive your engine failure was a result of a lean condition, definitely not an overly rich condition. Your wideband was reading correctly at the drag strip, right?
I'm pretty positive your engine failure was a result of a lean condition, definitely not an overly rich condition. Your wideband was reading correctly at the drag strip, right?
At the track it was definitely reading, now whether it was correct or not who knows. It didn't blow at the track tho there were no signs of it being hurt at the track. . It blew a week later after 2 street pulls. The first pull wideband was not reading. I have no idea what the afr's are wide open when wideband isn't reading on the haltech.
Yeah, from what I've seen when an O2 sensor fails it'll drop the reading to a rich number, like a 10.2 AFR. As long as you're not in close loop correction the car should still be running pretty consistent (might drop target boost because of a large variance in target vs actual AFR, etc.).
I'd also keep a really close eye on your fuel pressure too, your car did run really lean on at least one of those passes you logged, the way it was running lean I would've suspected a fuel pressure drop.
Yeah, from what I've seen when an O2 sensor fails it'll drop the reading to a rich number, like a 10.2 AFR. As long as you're not in close loop correction the car should still be running pretty consistent (might drop target boost because of a large variance in target vs actual AFR, etc.).
I'd also keep a really close eye on your fuel pressure too, your car did run really lean on at least one of those passes you logged, the way it was running lean I would've suspected a fuel pressure drop.
oh yeah definitely, i've been trying to get back to the local dyno because I feel safer looking at fuel pressure while doing a pull there. I'd rather not test my chances in the street. I just wanted to get some miles on the motor first and break it in before doing any pulls. I think I'm going to get the injectors cleaned too before I go all the way over to Hal just to eliminate that as a possible issue. Last thing I want to do is waste my time driving all the way over there only to find out there's something mechanically wrong still.
In the middle of putting line lock in. I'll be heading to the track Saturday. I'm trying to find a set of front skinnies. What wheel and tire size you guys running?
In the middle of putting line lock in. I'll be heading to the track Saturday. I'm trying to find a set of front skinnies. What wheel and tire size you guys running?
I think there are many flavors ... I'm not huge into the drag scene (per say) but I'm keeping an eye out for a set of enkei RPF1s in a 18x7...that's just me though.
Are you running twin line-locks and how are you configuring them (locking out the front or rear wheels)?
09-12-2018, 08:54 AM
