have you adjusted the crank enrichment? that would change the fuel maps at certain temps.

 

Have you adjusted for larger injectors assuming you have them?

Messing with the fuel map before all that other stuff might make it harder to hunt down a tune. Also some people mess with MAF adjustments before fuel and sometimes have better result from that. Not sure how or why but just throwing that out there since some people prefer to mess with air maps before the fuel map.

Also have you verified you don't have a vac leak? Air in your coolant? The air in the coolant won't make it die but will cause it to surge for idle sometimes.

 

drill a 3/16" hole in the throttle body valve ... sad to say this is the fix ...

 

I'm running the the stock Injectors so i put it at 310 across the table since i have a static pressure of 51psi.

I'm running VE via MAP and not MAF.

I have checked and don't see or hear any leaks but ill double check.

I let it warm up to normal temps and all the enrichment are at 0%

I hope i don't have to do this, i would hate to have to buy a new throttle body because i dik'd something up..

I can post up the pics of the tune if that would make it a little easier to see what i have going on.

 

What's VE on a MAP?

 

Volumetric Efficiency using a MAP sensor.

 

you and Obama are the only two hanging on to hope...You know I love ya Conway!

If nissan put an idle control valve in the TB or if you upgrade to the standalone where you can adjust idle, then you'll be able to adjust it...it the mean time, drill the a hole and be done with it...if all goes right you wont be idle'ing much...

 

is there a particular place to put the hole or does it matter?

 

I dont think it matters ... mine is towards the center. The good news if you don't like it you can swap the plate out and be back to square one -

 

Ohhh ok. Makes sense. Wasn't sure what the acronyms stood for.

 

Ok, I'll do that in a little bit.

 

Ok i drilled the hole, it still hunts but its not nearly as bad. Sometimes if i let it set for a few minutes it will stabilize and set at 750-800. I took it around the block oh man i need to adjust the A/F ratio A LOT. I also forgot how different that clutch is than my Saturn's is.

Well i have a check engine light but my damn Haltech won't show me what it is....

 

can you data log them and correct them based off your widebands? Are you running a haltech wideband controller where you can see how much the haltech is correcting your actual vs. your target??

 

I'm still trying to figure out the data log feature of this piggyback system. I have my Innovate DLG wired into the Haltech, and when i turn on the O2 corrections i have it set where it can add or subtract up to 20%. I don't know if i can see how much its adding or subtracting or not. I would think so but like i said i haven't really had a chance to dig into the software since the car was dead for so long and i didn't have any motivation to mess with it.

 

Add a number gauge to display what the haltech is correcting ... if you need help PM me -

 

I'll look tomorrow to see if I have the option to add it. Thanks for all the help good sir!

 

Well i'm back from my impromptu trip to Ohio for turkey-day. I got my Injen Long intake installed and found out my battery is dead :-( So now i have to wait for the battery to charge and them I'll try to do a little tuning.

 

I can log it, i'm going to do that if i can get it to crank back up....




Well went out to start the car after it had been on charge and it just cranks not even attempting to fire. If i let it crank for 15 or 20 seconds and then let out of it it will backfire a little bit. even if i hit the gas pedal to let more air in i doesn't do jack. I can see my widebands getting more and more rich as it cranks but i would image that is going to happen with all the fuel in the combustion chamber not being burnt.

I even messed with the timing in the cranking area's, base map has it at 8* i moved it up to 10* and no change, go pissd and walked away.

 

I think the back firing is a good sign

spray some starter fluid or brake cleaner in the plenum (via the brake booster port off the plenum - be sure to slide the hose back on)

dont mess with your main ignition table to start - you have a compensation map to handle that ... mine is set 0rpm = 10* and 399rpm = 12*

 

So, this is not a sight you want to see on a new block...