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Haven't gotten around to the suspension yet, its a slow process haha, but I do appreciate the info on the engine mounts. i also haven't bought the bolts/studs I needed yet, I spent hours looking but couldn't find what I wanted. I may just buy grade 12.9 bolts and cut em down if necessary. You're talking about the split lock washer yea?
Right now Im running 275s in the back like you, and it'll probably stay that way for a bit until I get more money saved up. I can always drive slower ha. Did i miss how much power you were making or did you not say?
Also I couldn't find the pipes I assumed were the wastegate relocation pipes anywhere online, but I don't know what else they could be. They just look so different than everyone else, but the manifold had a block off plate and it came with open dumps so not sure what else it could be. Heres a pic:
i know the dump is on upside down, I got mixed around when I put it on first ha
I'm at 470/430 @11.3 PSI with TD05H standard 18g turbos. I try to hook but when that boost kicks in... It isn't very forgiving. A good tuner will be able to get you some decent throttle-ability to control torque better. This tune is much better than the last one I had- Vince is getting better hehe.
I'd really avoid anything but stainless. They give you a fighting chance of being able to spin the bolts out with your fingers after cracking them loose with an allen key... As opposed to painfully spinning them out 1/6 of a turn at a time on your back as the muscle spasms and frustration set in
I'll see if I can find my mcmaster hardware order. The basic jist of it is they're either m10-1.5 or m8-1.25 depending on the location. I recommend 18-8 SS bolts/316SS washers.
You might also want to consider grabbing a tap for each thread to tap a bit deeper into the castings, if you are comfortable doing so. It gives you a bit more wiggle room when sizing bolt lengths. This can easily turn into a broken tap though so only do it if you've got the feel for it.
But yes, the split lock washers are good, but some are much smaller in diameter and are thinner than others (they are advertised as split lock washers for socket head cap screws), and they end up falling apart/spreading open as they dig into the cast iron; defeating their purpose. This is making me consider wedge-lock washers for you... To take some of the guess work out. They're reusable too, but not as cheap:
Those look like a custom fab dump tube set, I may be wrong about the custom thing, but they're definitely dump tubes. Suckerpunch motorsports is the main producer of them right now, they can be found on facebook for reference.
Here's my mcmaster order:
Switch line item #3 with 1x 92153A429 and omit #9. I believe this does not cover the three flange bolts for the downpipes fyi.
Your car is going to be fcking awesome, but you've got some hard work ahead to set the chassis up for this kind of power. Guys are running 370z axles and rear hubs to avoid chewing through wheel bearings, I believe that may also allow you to skip some drive-shaft-shop axles too. You'll learn the hard way if you get slicks. Luckily I'm not there yet. $$$ just to keep the car from destroying itself at that point.
Have you already sized wastegate springs? Large yellow I'm thinking? Not positive though. I run the small blue ones right now which yield 8-9 psi with the dump tubes and no boost controller. The yellow ones were stiff as all heck. Glad I swapped them out or I would have been overboosting on the dyno.
I'm at 470/430 @11.3 PSI with TD05H standard 18g turbos. I try to hook but when that boost kicks in... It isn't very forgiving. A good tuner will be able to get you some decent throttle-ability to control torque better. This tune is much better than the last one I had- Vince is getting better hehe.
Yea I was worried about that, I had money set aside to get tuned for boost by gear and some traction control but now its looking like thats all going to other parts ha. May be in the same boat as you.
You might also want to consider grabbing a tap for each thread to tap a bit deeper into the castings, if you are comfortable doing so. It gives you a bit more wiggle room when sizing bolt lengths. This can easily turn into a broken tap though so only do it if you've got the feel for it.
I did a bit of fab work in a steel shop for a few years, but there is no way im risking the chance of ruining these brand new manifolds that I picked up for 1k. Id much rather cut the bolt.
Here's my mcmaster order:
Switch line item #3 with 1x 92153A429 and omit #9. I believe this does not cover the three flange bolts for the downpipes fyi.
Thank you for all the info! I was very lost looking for bolts the other night. Is there any reason you replaced all the oem studs with bolts? Also why'd you go with 20mm when the greddy parts kist says 30mm (on the m8 x 1.25)?
Have you already sized wastegate springs? Large yellow I'm thinking? Not positive though. I run the small blue ones right now which yield 8-9 psi with the dump tubes and no boost controller. The yellow ones were stiff as all heck. Glad I swapped them out or I would have been overboosting on the dyno.
I am running the large green springs, I think they're 13psi. I am also going to be running a boost controller. I wanted to go higher but since I went with 11:1 compression ratio, I wouldn't be able to have a tune for 93 if the springs were much bigger.
Your car is going to be fcking awesome, but you've got some hard work ahead to set the chassis up for this kind of power. Guys are running 370z axles and rear hubs to avoid chewing through wheel bearings, I believe that may also allow you to skip some drive-shaft-shop axles too. You'll learn the hard way if you get slicks. Luckily I'm not there yet. $$$ just to keep the car from destroying itself at that point.
You know what, for the frustration, money, and time, this car better be badass haha. I keep getting the feeling that I am almost done until I get into working on it and realize how many little things need to be done before it is complete. I won't have slicks, and not big on launching my car, so I was sticking with the oem axels. They're pretty cheap to replace, and if one breaks maybe ill replace it with the 370z axels. I would never buy the built axels, they're thousands of dollars and still aren't guaranteed not to break.
Yup definitely solid aluminum, I believe they're cheaper too. Any squishy rubber bushings/mounts will lead to unpredictable behavior.
I'll take a good partial throttle tune before boost by gear any day. Maybe someone can chime in who had actually used it though. I just think it's cool and (a bit scary) to be able to light em up at 80 hahaha.
I went with bolts for two reasons. 1 less to go wrong. 2 more clearance. The components can be removed without first clearing the studs. I also run bolts on the headers. Been good for 2 years.
Is the 30mm referring to a stud? It'll have some extra length so it protrudes through the flange. But say you do need 30mm ones- throw the part number into McMaster, find the next one down, spend another $6, wait a day or two for arrival, and use the 20mm ones in the engine bay. Love that site. I'm pretty confident you'll be alright though. I went thru with calipers when my engine was out.
My suggestion would be to get as much done now all in one shot as possible. And when you do the suspension, do it all at once so you're not messing around with multiple alignments. It's not easy when your friends are giving you **** or when you just really want to drive the thing though...
Oh yeah! Amazon has mishimoto radiators "used". I got one for $150 and I'm pretty sure it was brand new
Thats what i was worried about. People were talking about the noise and vibrations but cool solid ones are cheaper anyways
may I suggest ... I one-off'd a set of mounts that eliminated the two opposing screws and used a single nut & bolt that dropped through the engine bracket, mount, and chassis ... this make removing & replacing the mounts 10,000% easier and you're planning on doing the turbo install with the engine in the car you will be happy you did.
may I suggest ... I one-off'd a set of mounts that eliminated the two opposing screws and used a single nut & bolt that dropped through the engine bracket, mount, and chassis ... this make removing & replacing the mounts 10,000% easier and you're planning on doing the turbo install with the engine in the car you will be happy you did.
I have the same style mounts from IP as well. It helps saves threads for sure.
Originally Posted by yosip1115
I wouldn't make my greatest enemy install a greddy kit in the car. It gives me anxiety just thinking about it
Its not that bad. What makes it easier is picking the proper hardware and upgrades. Some places need a socket cap, others need to be a traditional hex head. I only need 1 custom tool and that is for the passenger side turbo flange to manifold nut.
Yessir
Built long block from Dynosty (well mostly from dynosty, I got a little eager to get it home and had to finish it up)
upgraded cjm twin fuel pump with fuel return and id 1300cc injectors
haltech soon to be tuned by dynosty
oil cooler, front mount intercooler, pathfinder cooling mod, oem radiator as of now
first build right here, go big or go home, 2005 350z track ed
Thats what i was worried about. People were talking about the noise and vibrations but cool solid ones are cheaper anyways
Hated my solid mounts!!! They came off 3 days after I had Motor running they were horrible!!! Z1 semi solid mounts. Love them and my car makes pretty good power!!
first person i have ever heard that hated them. Ive only heard negative feedback on tranny mounts
Was horrible. I have a G tho so I really don’t know if it makes a difference. I can’t see it doing so. Idk I hated them. But everyone has there opinions..
Ill probably go with the solid mounts and run the oem tranny mount for now (moneys too tight- picked the wrong time to go to school ha). But luckily I have a spare engine that I have been building so I can get the turbo all installed outside the car then simply (as if anything is simple) swap my engines and be done!
Last edited by louisville13; 12-03-2017 at 06:07 AM.
Ill probably go with the solid mounts and run the oem tranny must for now (moneys too tight- picked the wrong time to go to school ha). But luckily I have a spare engine that I have been building so I can get the turbo all installed outside the car then simply (as if anything is simple) swap my engines and be done!
There are worse things you can do - I found mine used (but not installed) from ... someone here ... I can't remember ... but keep an eye out for one
pull your tranny or be prepared to ... I think you need the tranny attached to the engine to install the headers/wastegates stubs & greddy downpipes. I dont think they fit over the bell-housing with the trans still in the car - I'm 90% sure they dont - but it was forever ago -
There are worse things you can do - I found mine used (but not installed) from ... someone here ... I can't remember ... but keep an eye out for one
pull your tranny or be prepared to ... I think you need the tranny attached to the engine to install the headers/wastegates stubs & greddy downpipes. I dont think they fit over the bell-housing with the trans still in the car - I'm 90% sure they dont - but it was forever ago -
let someone else chime in
Oh im glad you said something. I would hate to have everything attached and ready to go just to have it not fit in the car
Hows everyone lifting their engine with a hoist? I connected my hoist to the manifolds when moving the original engine, but i don't really want to lift my new engine by the manifolds. I found this image on another thread, but I couldn't figure out how he had connected everything. Plus I have my intake manifold and everything all bolted on already. So any ideas on lifting a complete engine are appreciated!
I have a similar build to yours. But I can assure u that the 18gs will not make the power your looking for. I'm also shooting for around 750whp. I recently upgraded my turbos to the Forced performance black series turbos. They flow 71 lbs per minute each which is plenty for the power u want. I'm currently running 20psi with 1/2 pump 93 and 1/2 VP110. I haven't had the car back on the Dyno yet but I will soon. It made 527whp 554wtq on 16psi with the 20g's. My setup is somewhat simple. Rods pistons head and main studs cams/springs cjm stage 3 fuel system and tuning with Haltech.
11-30-2017, 06:57 AM
