When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Small update: UPS lost my bearings. I shipped them to WPC treatment and theytreated them and shipped back to me. But UPS some how managed to lose them...
They better do something about that man, Id be pissed. Will you be compensated or are they going to investigate where it went?
Well, I graduated with my BSN a few weeks back. And after some time off, my focus has now shifted toward studying for my licensure exam.
Thatv35guy came over this weekend and we tore the motor out. Unfortunately, the damage is worse than we initially anticipated. I'll let the pics do the talking. We're gonna tear the heads off next weekend and and pull the pistons/rods.
One thing in the pics that I noticed is you have the stock damper. I would highly suggest buying an ATI damper. They help a lot with damaging harmonics and that helps with bearing wear. Especially at your power level it's a solid investment. I've been on 25 #'s with basically your same setup for 2 years and have cut open multiple filters with nothing in them. Rods pistons cams head and main studs is my setup with twin FP black turbos. No gurdle with No signs of engine damage after 2 years of beating the hell out of it. I also spin mine to 7500 rpm.
Well, I graduated with my BSN a few weeks back. And after some time off, my focus has now shifted toward studying for my licensure exam.
congrats! I'm in the same boat - I take the prof engineers exam in April ... about 2/3rds the cash I got from parting out my twins went to an exam prep Kaplan course...
Your chunks look wayyyyy worse than mine. keep the thread updated - do you anticipate fixing/rebuilding? Are you running Pauter rods?
do you think you lost your main bearing / bearings or rod bearings? what bearings were in there?
Originally Posted by TT03Z
One thing in the pics that I noticed is you have the stock damper. I would highly suggest buying an ATI damper
are they as effective when you dont have AC and/or power steering? and hypothetically - if one were to have nothing running off the crank (ie PS/AC/Alt delete) does a harmonic dampener do anything?
Your chunks look wayyyyy worse than mine. keep the thread updated - do you anticipate fixing/rebuilding? Are you running Pauter rods?
do you think you lost your main bearing / bearings or rod bearings? what bearings were in there?
The rod bearings while worn, don't look like they were an issue. The two center main bearings took a beating. The crank journals for the two center mains are black. I'm debating what the game plan will be. I'll know more when we pull the heads off next week. I have another block sitting in the garage I may just build that one. And the rods are Eagles and the pistons are JE. Outside of those everything else is stock except for the ACL bearings, ARP main studs, and L19 head studs.
any idea why it's black? And assuming the crank is toast?
Heat, but idk why it got hot. I assume it was an oiling issue. None of the bearings were spun. And the rev-up oil pump only has 10k miles on it. I still think it had to do with the block flexing under 27psi and that's why the two center mains were damaged. I also don't know yet if the crank can be saved, there aren't any groves in it, but it is very discolored.
Heat, but idk why it got hot. I assume it was an oiling issue. None of the bearings were spun. And the rev-up oil pump only has 10k miles on it. I still think it had to do with the block flexing under 27psi and that's why the two center mains were damaged. I also don't know yet if the crank can be saved, there aren't any groves in it, but it is very discolored.
gotcha … were you running OEM spec bearings? gonna go a tad thinner on your replacements?
I was quoted $160 to grind/polish my donor crank … might be cheap insurance to have it sent to the machine shop to have it measured and cut to OEM spec. Not that I'm the z33 ambassador but it seems like high HP builds on other platforms are spec'ing their components with more clearance and looser fits.
I had my rods honed to the top of the OEM Spec 2.1659" (IIRC) and I'm going to have my crank taken down to the lower end of the spec, along with +1 bearings
gotcha … were you running OEM spec bearings? gonna go a tad thinner on your replacements?
I was quoted $160 to grind/polish my donor crank … might be cheap insurance to have it sent to the machine shop to have it measured and cut to OEM spec. Not that I'm the z33 ambassador but it seems like high HP builds on other platforms are spec'ing their components with more clearance and looser fits.
I had my rods honed to the top of the OEM Spec 2.1659" (IIRC) and I'm going to have my crank taken down to the lower end of the spec, along with +1 bearings
I have a set of ACL race bearings that are WPC treated. However, they're the standard size. I haven't decided yet as to if I should get a different set with more clearance.
So, some research has led me to believe that because my two center main bearings were trashed and my outer two weren't that the crank was flexing under boost. I still need to tear down the rest of the motor. I think the billet girdle likely would have helped this issue. And as TT03Z suggested I'm also adding an ATI damper.
I actually just had a similar situation in an engine I'm building at work. When torn apart I found lots of wear in the inner main bearings and almost none on the outer mains. Turns out the crank was bent .006". Now that's on a giant V8 in a cat machine. But the VQ is notorious for block flex in higher hp applications. I would highly suggest just replacing the crank not messing with the one u have and adding a block gurdle along with the damper. As far as bearing clearance goes most of your higher hp applications are going to have tighter clearances especially on mains. It allows for less movement of rotating parts. Where u set your clearances will also determine what kind and weight of oil u want to run. I didn't build the engine in my car. I got lucky and bought it unkowingly with the built block. But I run AMSoil synthetic 10w-40 in mine. Oils that are high in Zinc like this one always work better for higher hp cars.
How do you guys clean / wash / flush a block after a bearing failure to ensure all the bearing material is out of the oil system?
Put that ***** in the parts washer for a full day. Haha we have a giant parts washer that uses high psi hot water with a dry soap that inhibits rust. Works really well.
A little update, Thatv35guy came over and we tore the rest of my motor apart. Turns out I actually bent one of my wrist pins. The pistons themselves actually look really good. I could possibly reuse them if I wanted. But I think when my motor goes back together I'm going to replace all the pistons and rods. One of the headgaskets has a little issue. The stopper ring is pushed into the combustion chamber a little. And the cams took some damage from bearing material. I've got another block, so when I tear it down, assuming the crank and everything looks okay, I'm going to use that for my rebuild.
Since my cams are damgedI'm going to spend the $ on new cams and springs/retainers. I'm thinking my goal is to make 800whp this next go around. So I'm debating which cams, I'm leaning towards Tomei 272. But they also have 264 cams. With the billet girdle, I plan to rev the motor out to 7500rpms. So I'd like to have decent midrange power. With the Tomei cams, they offer them in 10.5mm lift, 11.0mm, and 11.3mm lift. Any recommendations? I'm kinda thinking just doing the 10.5mm lift.
I mentioned I just graduated in December. I have my RN license exam at the end of March and should hopefully be gainfully employed shortly after, assuming I pass the exam. So, my rebuild won't start for a couple of months. I was fortunate to build the motor a couple of times while going to school, thanks to my amazing wife. So, since I'm going to spend a lot of $ on this build I need to get a few paychecks under my belt.
I have the jwt c8 cams in my car. It picked up significant power up top and maintained the mid-range torque. Have only good things to say about those cams but can't really speak for others. I've had good luck keeping my motor together the last 2 seasons in the 550-600whp range and 700+ at the end of last season. This next season will probably be my time for a new short block. I will be adding a 50 shot and a smidge more timing cause it's super conservative on VP110. This year is more focused on building the suspension and shooting for a time. I ordered IDS's rear drag coilover combo, front single adjustable konis's, solid diff bushings, subframe inserts, monoball bushings all the way around, SPL camber, toe, and traction arms, and am going to a skinny on the front, and trying to take out more weight. I do 1/8th mile stuff so it's not quite as hard on the car as the 1/4 mile stuff.
I plan on doing a review of them after I get a few passes in on them. Previous best of 1.69 60ft on stock shocks stock suspension and lowering springs. Hoping to dig into 1.4-1.5's this season. I've heard good things about everything else they make so I pulled the $1100 trigger on 2 coilovers haha.
I finally got around to ordering some parts. Wiseco 8.8:1 96mm pistons, K1 rods, and a new set of ARP main studs. I also ordered the S710 upgraded wrist pins.
I've got another motor I need to tear down and then I'll get it to a machine shop to have the short-block built.
My next debate with the rebuild is which cams to use. I'm looking at BC, Kelford, and GSC cams.
The BC cams.
The Kelford cams
And the GSC cams.
The goal is to make 750-800whp and spin the motor to 7500 rpms. I'm far from a cam expert, so I'm open to input from anyone on cam selection.
Big thanks to JDM-V35 for a great deal on some HKS head gaskets! Thatv35guy and I are likely going to tear down my spare motor this weekend, then I'm hoping to get the block to the machine shop and to get this rebuild going.
Here is a better comparison pic of the standard Wiseco wrist pin vs the upgraded pin.
01-06-2019, 07:01 PM
