Well, I've dropped off my block to a machine shop. And in other news, I choose some cams. I ended up going with the GSC Power Divison 274 cams and springs. After reading a lot about GSC cams, they tend to make a lot of power in the 2JZ and the 4G63. So, hopefully they'll make power to 7500 rpms in my motor. I also picked up a new ATI dampener.

 

Very nice ... sometimes I think the tuner community looks to the 2jz as a 'best practice' bc of the proven results.

 

7500 in a 2jz isn't that like 4k in VQ?? Thought the 2j was very rev happy, like 9-10k rev happy.

 

GSC has a lot of different options for the 2JZ. For our cars, they only have these 274 cams and a set of 264 cams. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Greg, one of the engineers from GSC, he recommended this cam and said it should push my power rpm range to 7500rpms without much issue. He actually said these are cams are very similar to the cams they offer for the VR38. I just mention the 2JZ and the 4G63 since GSC cams are used a lot more in those platforms.

 

Since I've been buying parts, I picked up a brand new Cusco RS LSD. ThatV35guy has one in his G, and I've always been impressed with how straight his car stays while under WOT. Currently, I've been running my stock open diff. So this will be a huge upgrade. I got it from RHDJapan. They have the best price, and I got it in 5 days.

 

Let's talk clutches. I've been running a JWT flywheel and a Competition 6-puck clutch. I'm considering a Spec twin disk. Any of you guys using one?

 

What are your power goals? I have a Tilton twin disc in mine and was also considering the Etrim spec but ended up staying with the Tilton and going for the triple disc for their amazing customer service. My car makes a little over 700whp and I drag race it on slicks. I've had to rebuild the twin disc every season so far but the triple disc seems to be holding up better.

 

The goal is to make 750-800whp. I imagine torque will end up being 650-700 ft lbs.

 

I like to know what the wear patters & markings on the flywheel & pressure plate look like after just 2-3 runs.

I have a ATS Twin and was surprised at the marking on the metal part after not much time at all, the Carbon disc look great.

 

I FRYED an ACT Ceramic 6 Puck with a hi pressure, pressure plate with a high quality Forged Steel Flywheel, in about 6-8 runs at the drag strip in 2 days.

It was rated at 560 Ft Lbs, I have a Stock motor with a Vortech. And YES, It was adjusted Right, and Yes I know how to Drive.

Hope this helps

 

TheV35Guy came by my place and we started my engine assembly. I had a local machine shop build the short-block. We got my HKS headgaskets in and torqued the L19 headstuds then installed my GSC T2 cams.


ThatV35Guy showed me a FB post by SZR Pro, they're a Nissan shop in Houston, TX. They mention that they always disassemble the cam phasers on engines with bearing failures. So, we decided to take mine apart as my entire motor had bearing material throughout. Needless to say, I'm glad we did. There was a ton of bearing material in them. The pics do not show how much bearing material was actually in them.








And last but not least, I ordered a clutch. I went with the OS Giken TR2CD.

 

smart smart smart smart - I did the same thing ... disassembly wasnt hard but keeping track of everything that popped out was ... Dont forget to clean the little mini-filter! I used a full can on brake cleaner between the two of them.

Looking good!

 

I'm not sure what you're refering to when you say mini-filter. But I'll definitly clean it if you point me in the right direction.

 

this little nugget has a screen filter built in …

 

Good info. I never had the gall to disassemble the exhaust phasers. I was too afraid of the spring popping me in the face. Was it difficult to hold down the spring?

 

I believe these are intake cams sprockets … I think Mike runs a DE, which doesn't have the exhaust timing.

 

Ah, yes I took that all apart and cleaned it really well.

Bealljk is correct, on the DE I only have intake phasers. But these were easy to disassemble. It only has one small spring that pops up. Tear down and reassembly was super easy. And completely worth doing.

 

Small update, I installed my OS Giken twin-disc clutch and got the engine back in the frame. I dropped my ac line and condenser off at a local shop to change the pain in the *** spring locks to bolt together male and female fittings. I'm hoping to have the car on the road and driving come Sunday.




I also bought a couple of parts. The first being a new intercooler. This a Buschur racing "race intercooler". They make these for the Evo 8/9. I just had them change the inlet and outlet. Then I'll have a local guy fab the mounts. This intercooler uses a 1000hp rated Garrett core. ThatV35Guy add the same intercooler to his setup and rarely sees IAT go 10 degrees over ambient. And compared to the cheap intercoolers that that came with the powerlab kits there are some decent HP gains by switching to the Garrett core.


I also got a new clutch line with a provision for a pressure sensor. The sensor will wire into the ProEFI and allow a lot of functions to help keep the turbo spooled when the clutch is engaged.

 

Well, the car is up and running. I was having a lot of weird issues out of it, thinking it was something to do with the new cams I took it to Jason at ProEFI. He messed with the tune for a few minutes and determined that one of the cams was off by a tooth which was causing a misfire. So, I took it home and tore it back down and sure enough, the passenger side exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I corrected it and I now need to bring it back to ProEFI to make a few changes that were made when the cams off.

The new OS Giken twin disk is nice. The pedal is a lot lighter than my former Competiton 6-puck. However, it doesn't release until the very top of the pedal. So, I ordered an RJM V4 clutch pedal assembly.

My other big issue is the rear end of the car is making a loud banging or clanging sound. I thought that maybe something was loose so I jacked it up and looked at everything and nothing is loose. I added the Z1 subframe collars, the Cusco RS LSD, Bell Racewroks diff brace, and Z1 solid diff bushings. I did, however, notice the passenger side stub axle moves in and out a little. Is this normal?

Below is the imgur link to the video of the axle movement. Ignore the attachment it's the same video of the axle movement.
Here is a little video of the stub axle movement

 

So, I ran across this thread with someone having a similar issue with the axle floating in and out.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...-floating.html
He never stated if adding that circlip solved his issue though. My question is he had the same issue on the same side as me, the passenger. However, from the factory, the longer passenger side never had a circlip on the shorter driver side one did.
Driver side



passenger side

I did use the OEM stub axles out of an OEM VLSD diff. So, I have those two stub axles that I posted. So, should I just add a circlip to the passenger side one?