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Yup, it's the T3 1.06. With the GT3582R we were seeing EBP in low to mid 40's. So I had a ratio of just over 2:1 EBP to boost. With the 66mm turbine wheel my EBP has dropped to 26. So I'm seeing a 1:1 EBP to boost ratio.
Hmm, that is rather interesting.
I remember doing some EBP testing on these 6266 turbos a while back on a 370Z, with a twin scroll turbo kit, T4 1.15 a/r and was seeing 20psi EBP at 12psi of boost. I was actually expecting less EBP at 12psi, so this is surprising to see that you are at about 1:1 at such high boost, with a much smaller turbine (same turbine wheel).
Based on that boost though, you should be seeing well over 900whp then (which is waaaaay past the turbo range). I remember having a customer that opted for a Precision 7276 T4 .96 a/r with a mid mount turbo kit,, and he was at 938WHP at that same (25-27psi) boost. Do you have a dyno? I'd be curious to see the HP curve.
I remember doing some EBP testing on these 6266 turbos a while back on a 370Z, with a twin scroll turbo kit, T4 1.15 a/r and was seeing 20psi EBP at 12psi of boost. I was actually expecting less EBP at 12psi, so this is surprising to see that you are at about 1:1 at such high boost, with a much smaller turbine (same turbine wheel).
Based on that boost though, you should be seeing well over 900whp then (which is waaaaay past the turbo range). I remember having a customer that opted for a Precision 7276 T4 .96 a/r with a mid mount turbo kit,, and he was at 938WHP at that same (25-27psi) boost. Do you have a dyno? I'd be curious to see the HP curve.
Where are you putting the EBP sensor? Thatv35guy is seeing very similar EBP numbers with his 6266 in a T3 1.06 turbine housing.
I'd love for the car to be making over 900whp. But I don't think that is the case. At similar boost levels N54's and 2JZ's are seeing mid to high 700whp. The car is only street tuned at the moment. I'll get it on the dyno next month more than likely. We're still having 100 degree days in AZ. So I'm trying to let it cool off a little.
Well, you were right. And THANKS! I tore it down to the shifter plate and all the bolts were all basically backed out. It's odd that it happened. I haven't had the trans out of the car in 4-5 years.
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I'm glad it was something easy and i was able to help. The biggest problems usually have the simplest fixes.
Based on that boost though, you should be seeing well over 900whp then (which is waaaaay past the turbo range). I remember having a customer that opted for a Precision 7276 T4 .96 a/r with a mid mount turbo kit,, and he was at 938WHP at that same (25-27psi) boost. Do you have a dyno? I'd be curious to see the HP curve.
It's definitely not making 900whp, 27 psi on a 6266 turbo is very different than 27 psi on a 7276 turbo...
Where are you putting the EBP sensor? Thatv35guy is seeing very similar EBP numbers with his 6266 in a T3 1.06 turbine housing.
I'd love for the car to be making over 900whp. But I don't think that is the case. At similar boost levels N54's and 2JZ's are seeing mid to high 700whp. The car is only street tuned at the moment. I'll get it on the dyno next month more than likely. We're still having 100 degree days in AZ. So I'm trying to let it cool off a little.
I drilled/tapped the turbine inlet, just after the flange. So the reference point is at the largest cross section on the turbine.
Originally Posted by thatv35guy
It's definitely not making 900whp, 27 psi on a 6266 turbo is very different than 27 psi on a 7276 turbo...
Of course, which then just means you would be pushing all this boost against a big restriction, because after all, pressure is only built when there is a resistance to flow.
If you guys are able to get a bigger turbine (T4) housing in there, you'd see that boost drop a lot, but your power would increase. Once on the dyno, I'd expect to see the HP just plummet after 5k rpm with the 1.06 a/r turbine. As a point of reference, with the T4 twin scroll 1.15 a/r, 6266, on E85 and the VHR engine, guys are making 770whp and 630ft/tq at only 14psi of boost. This means that there is still plenty left in the turbo, since the tq/HP difference is still rather large. And just like with the PL kit, the down pipe is 3".
I drilled/tapped the turbine inlet, just after the flange. So the reference point is at the largest cross section on the turbine.
Was this with the twin scroll turbine housing?
Originally Posted by BoostedProbe
If you guys are able to get a bigger turbine (T4) housing in there, you'd see that boost drop a lot, but your power would increase. Once on the dyno, I'd expect to see the HP just plummet after 5k rpm with the 1.06 a/r turbine. As a point of reference, with the T4 twin scroll 1.15 a/r, 6266, on E85 and the VHR engine, guys are making 770whp and 630ft/tq at only 14psi of boost. This means that there is still plenty left in the turbo, since the tq/HP difference is still rather large. And just like with the PL kit, the down pipe is 3".
When we had his car on the dyno over the summer it made hp till roughly 5500 rpm (625whp & 650 tq @ 20 psi), turbo was completely taped out at this point though. Based off the exhaust back pressure number's I'm seeing so far I think this turbo should definitely make power past that.
If you guys are able to get a bigger turbine (T4) housing in there, you'd see that boost drop a lot, but your power would increase. Once on the dyno, I'd expect to see the HP just plummet after 5k rpm with the 1.06 a/r turbine. As a point of reference, with the T4 twin scroll 1.15 a/r, 6266, on E85 and the VHR engine, guys are making 770whp and 630ft/tq at only 14psi of boost. This means that there is still plenty left in the turbo, since the tq/HP difference is still rather large. And just like with the PL kit, the down pipe is 3".
I'm sure a bigger turbine would help. However, it would be costly to modify the kit to fit one. This upgrade by Pure Turbos to the Pure 6466 was quite cost effective. And if I can make mid to upper 700's I'll be very happy. Pure Turbos is pretty sure I should be able to get into the 800's with the T3 1.06. Do you have any data with a 6266 or a 6466 with a T4 turbine on a de? While the de and the VHR are similar people are making a lot more power on VHRs.
The GT3582r peaked around 5500rpms and you could really feel the drop off in power. However, it made so much torque and power down low that it was a blast to drive. With the new turbo it's completely different sensation. The car pulls the whole time until I shift, usually 6500-6800rpms. I'm still running stock de cams so those aren't helping me any up top. I really think this turbo is making power to at least 6500. But I'll know for sure when I get it on the dyno.
Well, I've got bad news. I think the motor is hurt. I noticed my oil pressure got low the other night, gauge was reading 5-10 at idle. But it was 30-45 going down the road. I noticed it happened after we did a bunch of back to back 27psi pulls. I just drained the oil and there are metal flakes in it. So I think the motor is coming out in a week or two. We do know that we never saw any detonation. At least not in the logs.
So my motor is only pistons, rods, ARP mains studs, L19 head studs, and ACL bearings. Everything else is stock outside of the revup oil pump. Our working theory is that maybe I need a billet girdle at those boost levels. Fortunately, the motor sounded fine. It wasn't knocking or making any noise. So We're gonna tear it down and see if I can get away with changing the bearings and adding a billet girdle. A buddy of mine changes the bearings in his 800whp 383 stroker every other year. He thinks I might be able to be able to get away with it...
Any one have any idea when the billet girdle is necessary? We don't know what my whp was, but at 27psi on the 6466 it was probably 750ish whp maybe a bit more. And this build has 6k miles. However, they mostly pretty hard miles.
Sorry to hear and hopefully (what you're saying) this is some small bearing failure and you can salvage your build. If you need any OEM replacements parts off either of the engines I picked up let me know - no charge.
what were you thinking for a girdle? If you're pulling the block I'd go billet for good measure - Z1 has theirs and it's $300 (I thought it was closer to $120).
(per my FI VQs trendline) 27psi computes to +/-766whp
I appreciate the offer! I actually have a spare engine in the garage. But I don't think I'll need any OEM parts. But I'll know more when it's torn down.
When I built the engine my goal was 550-600whp and I'd be happy. So, I didn't add a billet girdle to my build. Well after my turbo upgrade, 600 just didn't seem as much fun anymore, lol. I'm hoping that I can get away with putting in new bearings. I'm sure I caught this issue pretty early. The motor wasn't knocking. I just noticed the oil pressure got low after a few back to back 27 psi pulls. So I changed the oil and there was definitely small metal flakes in it. I'm thinking maybe the Dynosty billet girdle will stiffen up the bottom-end.
I think +/- 766whp is right in the ball park. The car pulled like a freight train on 27 psi.
I've never read about a VQ oil pump failing. But I'm debating the possibility of adding a set of billet oil pump gears to my pump. I only rev the car to 6800 rpms. But at this power level a little more oil volume/pressure can't hurt.
I'm also debating having the new bearings WPC treated. MotoIQ has some good info about the treatment. But I'm on quite the budget this rebuild. It's my last semester. So, my wife isn't going to let me spend too much getting my 'toy' back on the road.
I'm probably going to pull the pan off Wednesday. I'll snap a few pics and post them.
I'm by no means an engine builder. But with the help of a few friends I'm pretty confident we can get this thing back on the road pretty quickly. Both previous times I had a local machine shop build the bottom-end. Then my friends and I built the long block and put it back in the car. This time I may attempt to do the bottom-end in my garage with thatv35guy and another friend. I'm kinda at the point where I need to pinch pennies until I'm gainfully employed. So, a DIY is probably what's going to happen.
^yea ... I hear ya! theres are always going to be opportunities to 'economize' on things and other times where you should spend the cash for it - only you can determine which to use. If you're on the doorstep of graduating and can get a kick-*** job w/a healthy salary it'll make it way easier. Especially if you can keep your lifestyle at the 'college student' (or near it) level.
With purchasing the Link, dyno time, tuning, pump, and sensors (about $24) I told myself to reduce the amount I eat out (both w/coworkers at lunch & myself/friends/gf at dinners), get going on parting-out these engines, and generally dont spend money if I dont have to. It's all about making sacrifices!
Yeah, that's kind of the thought process. Just spend less elsewhere. I'm pretty fortunate. I'm 32, so I'm not a traditional college student. And my wife is a cyber security engineer. She just wouldn't to pleased if I did a money is no object rebuild. The plan was to build my other motor after I'm working. And I likely will do a better build next year or the year after. This go around I'm hoping to just put some bearings in it. And probably add the billet girdle.
Sorry to hear about the motor, hope the rapid recognition of an issue helps speed the recovery process along. I'd recommend documenting spark plug condition for each cylinder and try to get metal flakes out of all oil lines and passages including within the turbo (unless you had an inline filter on the turbo oil feed line). Best of luck on the rebuild!
Just a quick update. I haven't had a chance to pull the motor yet. I'm hoping to get it out next week. I did pick up a Dynosty billet main girdle. I'm pretty sure I had main cap walk. So, this girdle should keep that from happening again. My new ACL rod, main, and thrust bearings should be in Thursday. Then I'm shipping them off to WPC to be treated.
Small update: UPS lost my bearings. I shipped them to WPC treatment and theytreated them and shipped back to me. But UPS some how managed to lose them...
09-16-2018, 12:52 PM
