I've never made a build thread here, so I figured I'd finally make one since I just got new numbers for my build today. Spoiler: 624whp and 650 ft lbs. I post more photos on my IG @E85TZ33

The background: I bought my '04 Z in May of 2010. I was initially looking to buy a C5 'Vette. However, I came across this Z. It was a trade in by a mechanic at the Ford dealer where he worked. For power mods Turbonetics kit, Kinetic intake, JWT clutch and flywheel. It was also lowered on Tanabe GF210 springs, and the 19" wheels, and audio upgrades with two JL 10" subs. On 10psi it was making 390whp.
This is what it looked like when I bought it




The build: After popping my stock block, lost compression on one of the cylinders, I decided to build the motor. This is when things got interesting. After pouring over a ton of information on this forum I came to the realization that the Turbonetics kit wasn't going to make a lot of power. So, when forum member SpeedSniper put his Powerlab kit and ProEFI EMS up for sale I bought them and sold off the Turbonetics kit that was on the car.

My parts list:
JE pistons
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
ARP L19 head studs
Stock heads and cams
Competition 6-puck clutch
Precision 1200cc injectors
CJM Twin pumps 255/450
-8 fuel feed line and -6 return fuel line
OEM fuel rails with -6 fittings welded on
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive in line filter
GT3582r turbo
1.06 turbine housing
S compressor cover
Turbo Guard screen
ProEFI Pro48 ECU
Map sensor
Fuel pressure sensor
Exhaust back pressure sensor
Flex fuel sensor
Antilag/rolling antilag button
i-boost control
Megan headers
Topseed N1 exhaust
Hotchkis swaybars
Tokico D-spec struts
Mishimoto radiator/hoses


Over the years and the course of this build I've run into many issues and setbacks. This is actually the 2nd time the motor has been built. The first one had a catastrophic oiling issue.

Here is, pretty much, how the car looks now. I'm not much for exterior mods so visually it looks the same. With the exception of the 15" wheels and 275/60/15 Nitto NT555R tires on the back. And I upgraded my base brakes to the OEM Brembos on the front.









This setup has been running and tuned for a while now. But it's just been street tuned on 15psi by a friend from the forum ThatV35guy. In the last couple of weeks I added the CJM twin pumps, it previously just had a single 485 fuel pump, and the S compressor cover. So we decided it was time to rent some dyno time and see what the car can do.

These numbers are on 20psi with 72% ethanol.





That car is a riot to drive on the street. Rolling antilag is one of my favorite features. Thatv35guy and I have gotten my boost by gear dialed in pretty well. So I'm able to get 555r's to hook fairly well. It's already getting into the 100s here in AZ, so this Fall I hope to make some passes at the drag strip when it cools off.

I can honestly say that the best part of owning the car is the friends I've made. I've had countless late nights working on this car and their cars with ThatV35guy and SpeedSniper. And many other friends who aren't on this forum.

 

So you are breaking 600 wheel horsepower with OEM fuel rails adapted to 6an..?..
can you post up pics of the fuel system

going to have to run my OEM lines down to my fabricator..thanks

 

I don't have any OEM lines. I don't have any pics of the rails, but other people on this forum have done the same thing. So I copied those setups.

I have the CJM twin pumps in the tank. I Y both pumps together with a -6 to -8 Y fitting. I run the -8 feed line into the aeromotive filter. And from there it's still a -8 line until I Y them into another -6 to -8 Y fitting. Then I run the two -6 lines into each rail, OEM rails with -6 fittings welded on. On the other side of the rails I T the two -6 lines into a single -6 line and that goes into the aeromotive regulator. And from there it is just a -6 line back to the CJM pumps in the tank.

 

 

Right. That's what I said you are getting over 600 wheel horsepower on stock fuel rails OEM ..

just curious at what point aftermarket are necessary

 

That's a good question. I'm honestly not sure. But there was some discussion in the past and Charles at CJM seemed to say that they'll flow quite a bit of fuel.

 

I don't think aftermarket fuel rails are really needed from a volume/flow perspective, the major advantage to CJM's fuel rails are the integrated pulsation dampers (they also look great!).

I know WTFMike never had any issues relating to the 2400 rpm hesitation, etc. but I definitely did and the CJM rails solved that issue for me.

 

I ran into small issue last night. ThatV35guy and I were out making pulls in my car and it wouldn't hold 20 psi. The boost curve was pretty erratic in my logs. On the dyno the car held boost pretty steady, however, it dropped 1 psi in the upper rpm range. On the street the car was folding boost steady at 15 and 17 psi. But wouldn't hold 20. We messed with the boost control for awhile but it wasn't doing much. I'm running a tial 44mm WG with a 4.3psi spring, so I was more than doubling spring pressure. I just swapped in a 8.7 psi WG spring hopefully that allows the car to hold steady boost at 20 psi.

 

is it safe to assume you checked your couplers & connectors? and/or your vac lines?

 

Yup, I checked everything. I just swapped in the 8.7 psi spring. I'll hopefully get it out in the next couple of days and see if we can get the boost control dialed in with the new spring.

 

oh yea...that makes sense ... I didnt conceptualize that ... can you tinker with your bcs to (gently) bring up up your boost levels?

what's your tuning platform?

 

I'm running ProEFI. Which, IMO, has done a great job. It allowed me to run 17psi with a 4.3 psi wastegate spring. We played with it quite a bit last night and it just wouldn't get to 20psi and hold, no matter what we did with the boost control table. I think the stiffer spring will solve this issue.

 

sorry...it's totally in the title of your thread! I'm unsmart...

 

ThatV35guy and I got out tonight and made a bunch of changes to the boost control map. With the changes and the new stiffer WG spring the car is holding 20 psi steadily. I'm fairly impressed with the ProEFI boost control, I was able to use the 4.3psi WG spring and run the car on 17psi of boost.

 

does the ProEFI hook up to a (for example) mac solenoid??

 

Yeah, it uses a standard MAC type 3 port solenoid

 

I love the look of the stock exterior, but I finally gave in. I added a CF bumper duct. Where it sits, I think it should help lower my IATs. I really miss the AZ winter when my IATs were in the 70s. I'm actually considering some hood vents. I just need to find some I like or I may cut the RS vents into the hood.

 

My engine bay temps dropped significiantly when I installed my hood vents. But you gotta find the right ones for sure!

Any thoughts on insulating your intake charge pipe?

 

Nice build and numbers man. I have the same summit/jegs wheels on mine and for as cheap as they are they sure do work and look good. Have you made any track passes in it yet? Curious to see your trap speed and 1/8th mile.

 

I'm definitely looking for vents. I've been considering wrapping the charge pipes in the DEI gold foil tape. I think I have enough laying around. But I'm not sure that would help my IATs much

I plan to hit the track this Fall/Winter. The Summer is pretty brutal here in AZ. I did make some pulls against my buddies '17 NSX, 50mph rolls, and I was able to pull on him. I really want to see the car does in the 1/4 mile.