yag

For those of you who aren't stupid enough to get your parts from ebay, the rev9 kit is a $1700 knock off of the turbonetics/treadstone kits. You can manage to use this kit, but you'll more than likely have some serious issues that need to be taken care of. For basic install instructions, use this pdf: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ob50y6s7zmovk0/60130_revC.pdf?dl=0

**This may not apply to everyone, this is what I personally went through**

1st problem:
The pipe that connects both headers together has a serious restriction inside of it. No bigger than half an inch in diameter.



This was fixed by cutting a square hole in the opposite end of the pipe (where the red arrow points), widening the restriction to the proper size, and re welding the square shut.



Problem 2:
The v band fitment leading from the drivers side header is awful. Never try to connect v band flanges that don't sit flush because they will leak.
Cut the pipes and bend them until the flanges sit flush. Then re weld the cuts.

**Be careful who you pay to weld your pipes!** I paid a shop to do this sense it had to be on the car for proper fitment. These are the welds they left me. The shop tried to hid these
welds by putting exhaust wrap over it lol.


Problem 3:
The flange for the wastegate had a hole in the corner that would allow it to leak. Fixed through a simple tack weld then grounded flat. Still crazy that the kits welds are this bad.



Problem 4:
This cold side pipe sits very close to the crank pulley. The tabs that mount the pipe to the engine had to be bent in order to mount up properly. Not a huge deal but definitely something you should not ignore.


Other things to note:

Don't use their wastegate. It seems to be decently constructed, but I still wouldn't risk your engine's life on an ebay wastegate. I'd recommend going with a trusted brand like tial.

Don't use their v band clamps either. They break easily and leak. Go with ticon 2 inch and 2.5 inch v bands, they're cheap worked well for me.

All silicone couplings and t bolt clamps worked well for me.

The included bov is adjustable and worked for me.

Oil lines and fittings were ok too. For the oil return I used a pan spacer rather than drilling into my upper oil pan.

I didn't end up using the included turbo. Long story short, the turbo blew up on the dyno because the oil feed line was not routed properly lol. I'm running a precision 6266 instead.

If you want to keep your air conditioning, you have to buy the momentum performance ac line, because you'll burn through the oem one. You can find it here: https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...ne-p-9843.html

Overall the kit was a pain to work with. You get what you pay for. With that being said, this still was thousands of dollars cheaper than any other alternative I could find.

Been running this setup for over 16,000 miles on a stock block with zero issues so far. **knock on wood**

Let me know if you have any questions

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Good write-up and welcome to the forum

how much boost are you running? did you dyno?

how did you tune?

let me just say this and I am not excusing the shop that did the welding by any means ... but a welder can only do so much with the material theyre given. If you have junk material and/or dirty material its gonna weld like deer poop. They obviously mig'd it when they should have tig'd it...maybe they didnt have a tig setup?

Your stuff would not be the case ... obviously someone tig'd that nice and pretty from their factory...

yag

I'm running 7psi but I creep to 9 sometimes lol gonna relocate and upgrade my wastegate sometime. I dyno'd at 382whp and 360wtq. I'm on uprev

I can understand that, but this shop has done tig welds for me before. The shop actually ended up firing the guy who did those welds, but I'll never take my car back to that shop, they messed up a lot of other stuff too.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Right on! Looks like a fun little setup - 382hp is pretty good. Plus or minus what do you think you've spent to get this far?

Yea - and I'm not saying all welders are this way. If I was that shop owner I'd fire that guy too ... blatant disregard for quality and customer well-being.

I know my welds arent perfect but I know that each one will hold.

yag

I spent around 5k, including all extras like uprev with arc, 255 with bosch 550cc injectors, oil pan spacer, and mishi oil cooler and a precision turbo. If you really want to budget yourself, you can use the included ebay turbo for around 4k, but I definitely wouldn't try to budget more by getting rid of the pan spacer and oil cooler or using a cheap wastegate. Imo those things are really needed, and with as many miles as I've put in my setup I'd recommend doing the same.

I've never touched a welder lol, can't imagine how shitty it'd look if I tried.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I agree - I was just curious.

My general feeling is that these 'ebay' turbo kits are fine for anyone that isnt going to push their car past the 400hp mark. Also, these kits wont tolerate abuse or neglect like a higher end blower.

I ran kinugawa replacement CHRAs and pushed them relatively hard (18psi) and they did fine.

I dont like using an oil pan spacer to scavenge oil back to the pan (I prefer tapping the upper oil pan) but if it works for you than go nuts!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Right on ... 382hp is pretty solid and I'm sure it livens up the car?

Aluminum is difficult to say the least. Mild & Stainless are pretty easy to tig ...

yag

382 is a fun daily and I spin 295's all the way through second lol. I definitely want more hp tho, and if I switch out the cold side piping, intercooler, and put a 3 inch down pipe on this kit I should be able to make some good power. Once my stock engine finally dies I plan on doing a 9.5:1 compression build and hopefully dip into the 600whp range

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

That weld looks like it was done with a $99 110v welder. Seriously

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Inexperience mixed with not caring ... mig'ing a steel connection like that is a 3 out of 10 ... then to cover it up with wrap is what'd **** me off.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

That being said the Rev9 kit seems to be slightly lower quality than the Godspeed kit I am running. My collector was not like that on my kit, but similar issues with v-bands, pipe close to pulleys and I also used a different wastegate(still ebay brand)(Emusa, with a Tial spring)

darkshyne

Hey man. Some cool info in here, thanks for the post.
Is this still the system you'd recommend if you wanted to do it on the cheap?
I'd like to review it with my mechanic.

Do you have a copy of the PDF you can send me. the URL is dead.
Thanks
b

yag

Didn't know it was down so I uploaded my downloaded version to my Dropbox. Please let me know if this works instead:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ob50y6s7z..._revC.pdf?dl=0

This kit is great if you want to stay with a stock block DE (400hp). Beyond that it starts to get inefficient because of the hotside piping diameters, 2" on the up pipe and 2.5" on the downpipe.

Personally, I would go midmount single turbo because of its simple install and adaptability. Plenty of options there from Boosted Project Z, Boosted Performance, RZG, and Unknown Performance to name a few off the top of my head. I know Boosted Project Z offers just the hotside as well, which is the cheapest way to go so you can get your own turbo/wastegates, and get a generic 2.5" aluminum piping kit from ebay and DIY weld/coupling your way to the IC and TB. These midmount single turbo kits can make upwards of 900hp if setup correctly.

Also, if you ever go HR or VHR swap to make more power for cheap, the hotside and coldside leading to the IC on the midmount st kit will still fit perfectly (as long as the headers have the same flanges) where as the rev9/turbonetics/treadstone kit will no longer fit on those swaps. Best of luck with your build.

KeenanDooley

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iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I had the older version (Godspeed) The collector was better, but not ideal. Easy fix.