should anything else be upgraded aside from the rods when pushing upwards of 450rwhp?

 

Well, some will tell you to replace everything, which of course would be real expensive. But the truth is, unless carlitos has more info from his friend, noone really knows.

 

While the motor is apart you should replace rods and pistons.

The factory crank is forged it can support all the power you can dish out.

for really big power (600 hp +) Cams are a good idea as well as a racing stud kit for the heads as well as titanium valve spring retainers to support the cams increased lift and duration.

pauter forged rods 1100
sgp racing forged pistons 1100
sgp racing stud kit 500
Ti valve spring retainers 400
JWT cams 1100

4200 in parts plus misc like berings gaskets ect
plus labor i was quoated 18 hours for removal and re installiation of the motor + 9 hours to install all the parts above

27 hours x 65 per hour = 1755

so roughly 5955 + misc charges 500?

so 6500 or so to build the block for serious FI start to finish.

 

I did everything SQUILL mentioned (Tomei vs JWT cams) and had to go back in and replace the exhaust valves when I burnt two of them. I had some custom made that are guranteed to be around when everything else goes.

 

Interesting do you have a fully built motor with F/I??

Do u have pics or any info posted here???

How was your tuning were you running a good A/f ratio or running lean???

 

Ah Ha searched around You are running tons of nitrous!!!! I dont think you can compare F/I and nitrous related to the valves!!!

 

Sure you can... he leaned out and burned them.

Same reason a turbo car would burn theirs.

 

Well thats obvious you could burn them N/A running to lean.
I thought it was interesting he burned the valves because i thought he was running big boost. Any way the factory valves
seemed fine so i was suprised to hear they got scorched. Anyway on nos not as suprised.

 

About this Torque Converter and LOAD in the ECU.

What is this measure of load? How is it measured? I was not able to find any "load sensors" described in our shop manuals.

I have given this alot of thought. After my TC install, i tok the car to be seen by todashi. He was saying that when LOAD increases, which is what was presumably done by a tighter torque converter, that does not change the output of the ecu, as you essentially go off the scale of the map "to the right" (assuming here that we are imparting more load to onto the engine than the ECU 'calculates'). We weren't really able to identify what the problem was...

But thinking logically, is it really valid to say that the load change will displace the timing/A/F map? If this is the case, and in fact the reason for the blown motor on the 5AT TT Z, then wouldn't the car be exposed to the same danger just by drving uphill or downhill (changed load), or by lightening up or loading the car with passengers (also a change in LOAD).

Is my thinking off here?

Gurgen

 

yeah I'm reading it Scott thanks.

I haven't TS reflashed since the Edge Torque Converter mod but I don't have any bad symptoms.

However the paranoi in me has me now looking at my car with the stink eye

 

Beat time to date 11.97 @ 116 .7 mph Time for a new clutch though, what do you guys recommend and use for upgraded clutch packages.

Peter

APS

 

My best run is 12.9 @ 106 mph on 5.5 psi and an a/f ~10:1. I think my clutch is not happy, and I am slowly tuning the fuel maps. So I hope to hit a better time soon. My best trap speed at 5.5 psi was 111 mph! So it's making the power, I just need to practice driving this car a little more.

 

I thought mjedens had a low eleven more than once at the march Z fest in Reynolds, GA.

 

Fast! people are raving about the tilton lightweight clutch/flywheel package...Skidazzle was running an os giken clutch but allready destroyed it eventhough it was rated for alot more power than he was putting down.

 

Great to hear peoples times are getting lower all the time.
Wonder who will be first to dip below 11????????
That would rock.

 

I've tried a number of different combinations and will soon give the new JWT clutch with their flywheel a try on June 12th. The only thing I've found that works coming off the line at 6000 with a lot of torque is the stock flywheel and a stage 3 or higher clutch. I like the lighter flywheels running N/A and keep trying to make it work at the strip with N2o . For those interested, NOPI is @ the drag strip in Steele, Alabama on June 12th & 13th.

 

Peter,

I think I met you the weekend of the ATCO challange..In fact we had dinner together..I find that the Clutchmasters stage 3 is very streetable and holds up fine to 6000+rpm drops!!!
Jules