boost guru's...... quick advice needed!
gurus....
i am off to get my vortech custom mapped tomorrow, and wanna know what the 'ideal' ratio i should be shooting for, in advance....
not to discredit the tuner, but im wanting to have numbers already on tap, for comparison purposes.....
as well as having a powerful build, i wanna have a SAFE setup too...
for now, im running with oem exhaust and cats, if it matters... i will likely be back to the dyno (same one too, i imagine) when the crawford cats, and fujistsubo Y /midpipe & muffler are installed...
can i get some advuce please???
thnx
sms
ps- what size bung is needed for the aem wideband setup?? (havent figured that out yet either)
i am off to get my vortech custom mapped tomorrow, and wanna know what the 'ideal' ratio i should be shooting for, in advance....
not to discredit the tuner, but im wanting to have numbers already on tap, for comparison purposes.....
as well as having a powerful build, i wanna have a SAFE setup too...
for now, im running with oem exhaust and cats, if it matters... i will likely be back to the dyno (same one too, i imagine) when the crawford cats, and fujistsubo Y /midpipe & muffler are installed...
can i get some advuce please???
thnx
sms
ps- what size bung is needed for the aem wideband setup?? (havent figured that out yet either)
12:1 ratio is key when you are not at idle. This should be pretty much across the whole RPM band. With a SC it will be ok to run a little lean, no more than 12.5:1 before about 3 psi of boost.
Originally posted by esemes
ps- what size bung is needed for the aem wideband setup?? (havent figured that out yet either)
ps- what size bung is needed for the aem wideband setup?? (havent figured that out yet either)
-D
personally, i dont like to go too rich at lower RPM, becuase you loose lots of torque and snappiness. So I would start at 13.5:1 at maybe 3000rpm, and gradually and progressiveliy work your way down to 11.5:1 at 5000rpm....I would shoot for a flat 11.5:1 from 5000rpm to redline...roughly. Especially with an SC, which progressively builds boost and peaks and redline...your fuel curve should follow that. A TT is slightly different, in that it hits peak boost at 3000rpm or whatever...so you need to get richer quicker..
11.5:1 is on the "safe" side of peak torque/power. You leave a little bit on the table, but you give yourself an extra margin for error, to account for a bad tank of gas, ambient temp changes, voltage fluctuation, etc...etc...
11.5:1 is on the "safe" side of peak torque/power. You leave a little bit on the table, but you give yourself an extra margin for error, to account for a bad tank of gas, ambient temp changes, voltage fluctuation, etc...etc...
Originally posted by gq_626
personally, i dont like to go too rich at lower RPM, becuase you loose lots of torque and snappiness. So I would start at 13.5:1 at maybe 3000rpm, and gradually and progressiveliy work your way down to 11.5:1 at 5000rpm....I would shoot for a flat 11.5:1 from 5000rpm to redline...roughly. Especially with an SC, which progressively builds boost and peaks and redline...your fuel curve should follow that. A TT is slightly different, in that it hits peak boost at 3000rpm or whatever...so you need to get richer quicker..
11.5:1 is on the "safe" side of peak torque/power. You leave a little bit on the table, but you give yourself an extra margin for error, to account for a bad tank of gas, ambient temp changes, voltage fluctuation, etc...etc...
personally, i dont like to go too rich at lower RPM, becuase you loose lots of torque and snappiness. So I would start at 13.5:1 at maybe 3000rpm, and gradually and progressiveliy work your way down to 11.5:1 at 5000rpm....I would shoot for a flat 11.5:1 from 5000rpm to redline...roughly. Especially with an SC, which progressively builds boost and peaks and redline...your fuel curve should follow that. A TT is slightly different, in that it hits peak boost at 3000rpm or whatever...so you need to get richer quicker..
11.5:1 is on the "safe" side of peak torque/power. You leave a little bit on the table, but you give yourself an extra margin for error, to account for a bad tank of gas, ambient temp changes, voltage fluctuation, etc...etc...
i changed the plugs to 1° colder already, to help ensure the safety/longevity......
lets see what numbers the tooner comes up with....... (maybe i should relay this info prior)
-eS
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esemes....The guy that tuned my car has been doing it for 25 years , F/I and N/A race cars .Races himself . He did tell me that 11.8 to 12.2 to 1 is Ideal for F/I and 12.8 to 1 for N/A .Let us know how it turns out
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