Ok basically here is what iam at. A stock 350z.
Here is what i want to do, add a turbo or a sc.
If i add a turbo, what will i have to add along with the greddy tt besides IC to make it so i dont blow my engine. Iam talking about the obvious, like even boost manager, what kind? EVERYTHING. Like i want it in details of what i should do, what to put in.
Besides the Greddy tt kit, heres what i plan on putting in.

Greddy Evo2 exhaust
Helix test pipes
Crawford z header
PE Injectors (dunno what size yet, is 380cc fine?)
Walbro 255lph High Pressure fuel pump

What else do i need now? Or are some of these upgrades not needed cause greddy comes with superior ones?
Thanks.

 

Depends on your goals. If you are happy with 350 - 380 whp then you can just use the base kit (base boost 5.6psi) + other things for monitoring your TT kit.

Greddy TT + FMIC
Exhaust (Greddy Evo 2)
Test Pipes
1 step colder spark plugs
Wideband O2 or EGT
Boost Gauge

You don't need the Crawford header since the Greddy has a turbo manifold.

You can switch to a 380cc but the Greddy comes with 440cc and the associated harness that will require splicing into the injector harness.

If you want more power than 380whp around 400 - 430 whp you will need:

1. Timing control via E-manage, J&S or Techno reflash.
2. Larger Fuel pump Walbro 255lph
3. Boost Controller
4. A FPR with a return line set-up.

Anything over 430whp IMO I would go forged internals and possibly sleeving.

Again this is very generalized as there have been at least 2 failure at low boost where the rods just failed.

 

For stock boost you don't need anything extra as far as fuel is concerned (besides, the PE380s would be less than the RC440s that come with the Greddy kit). But you do need timing retard and a blow-off valve, IMO.

--Steve

 

That's what I forgot the BOV.

 

I'd add that the timing harness is manditory in my book. At least two stock Greddy kits were pinging at stock boost levels. And given two recent TT blow-ups at low boost, I'd say the timing harness and retard is a must.

 

Ya i think iam just gonna go with a SC. Safer, and i only want to put up to 9-10psi, 10 being max and i doubt i would do that high, but thats pretty much the most boost i would do. So no point of paying that much for a turbo when iam gonna get the same results maybe even better at that low of psi with a SC right?

 

10psi with a Vortech/ATI supercharger is much different than 10psi with a TT. With the SCs you reach 10 psi near redline, where with the TT you get the full 10psi much earlier in the powerband. Power delivery with a SC is linear and smooth where the TT is more sudden. Look in the past week or two's posts and you'll find a thread that compares the amount of boost at the different kits produce at various RPMs.

 

How much is it usually for the timing retard? What is timing retard actually. Sounds Retarded. LOL J/K! But is it somethin the shop does on their own without buying anything? And what timing harness should I buy GQ! I am asking you these questions cause you are well knowledged 350Z tuner. I appreciate your patience with me. thanks

 

With the Greddy kit you have a couple of options, you can get the timing harness from Greddy which is not too expensive and create a MAP in emamage for timing retard, or you can with a J&S Safeguard (~500) that is more sofisticated and you can program to retard timing plus it will detect knocking and retard as well so you can get to the point which you can retard timing the very least and still not have knocking where as with the Greddy harness you are guessing plus it retards timing across the board where as the J&S does it by cylinder.

I am going to go with the J&S myself, more expensive but at this point what the hell might as well go for broke.

 

That is the reason I went with the TT kit rather than SC, I liked that the TT has more power in the midrange where it will be used, I don't care if the SC gets more power at a spike at 6600 I know I will have it in the 4K range, I compared two dynos that had similar peak power and the TT had about 30-40 more HP in the 4K range.

 

What makes you want the Greddy kit specifically? have you thought about other kits? What are your goals? Max power at all costs, daily drivability? I am only asking because from certain wording in your post it doesn't *seem* like you've really given this a lot of thought. For example, the fact you want to install crawford headers with your turbo kit. If I sound like a bit of a dick, I apologize, but I want to give you real sound advice, that's all. Greddy is not a really well designed solution in my opinion. Turbo's are too big for intended application. Intercooler design is poor both in terms of air flow and fitment in the vehicle, bypass/blow-off valves are extra. Software requires extra tuning.

 

I dont know much about turbos ya ill say that. What else am i gonna get, PE? Not many other turbo options out there, and by feedback from everyone saying Greddy's are good.

 

Greddy is a good base for other mods. It's not the best "out of the box" solution. I prefer the PE kit if that is your goal.

However, if your goal is 600whp and you intend to build the motor and make additional mods, I prefer the Greddy kit over all the others . The turbos are well matched for 20-25psi and are capable of efficencly supplying 700whp worth of air....same said for the intercooler. That is insane power...and more than most will ever want to see. The Greddy kit is easily tunable via eMange, or you can do TS reglash, J&S..whatever..I just like it because of the various tweakable options. To me, the only drawback to the APS kit is that it is "locked down", and from what Peters tells me, only authorized tuners can touch it.

Personally, I'd wait for the APS which seems offer the best of everything...in a safe and well tuned package...out of the box.

Spend several weeks browsing the boards, and learning as much as you can. Remember than none of these kits is 100% safe, even at stock boost levels. It's all relative...and it depends on your tolerance for risk, and you financial ability...should something break.

Oh, and lastly, dont get lulled into a false sense of security with the SC kits. They are just as dangerous. Three member have blown rings and lost significant compression...they participated in my group buy on forged rods and pistons.

 

I am kinda new to mods....so......adding to the initial quesiton how much would the costs be including hardware, installation, and tuning to achieve say 600+ rwhp on a G35 coupe? I live in the northeast also...

 

I understand that any FI isnt 100% safe, but SC are safer than turbos if tuned properly, and you dont have idiots messing with it.

Iam still not sure if i want a SC or turbo.

 

Silly: I can already tell you to get that much your gonna have to build up th engine some. Cause i only plan to put 10psi max with either turbo or sc which will give me 400's area. Add a few other little mods and ill be in mid 400's. If i wanted to make my boost more, i would wnat to start and rebuild the lower portion of the engine, because basically anymore pressure on it will just blow. So to achieve 600rwhp is gonna cost a hefty penny, and engine rebuilding.

 

If you want a really high powered car, then turbo is the best way to go, and in that case, the Greddy turbo's are designed for higher boost applications but you will need to do A LOT of engine mods and tuning on your own.

My previous Audi S4 had 450hp and 511lb-ft of torque with 24psi boost. It was a blast, but......it was also too fast for the street. I had to be so careful about how I drove it that it really took the fun out of it at times. That much torque is frightening and dangerous on the road, no matter how many times you drive it. And that was with All wheel drive. Try that kind of power through just the rear wheels!!! My friend has Nitrous on his Viper and is running 650hp. His car is uncontrollable under hard throttle through 4th gear!!!!!!

A supercharger is an easier install, and will give you a decent amount of power that is still "streetable" if that is your goal. So....if you want to build a drag monster or the ultimate show car, go TT for sure. For the street, SC is simpler and will give you all the useable power you will need most of the time.

I really feel people sometimes get to caught up in just the idea of more power, without really thinking about their real intended purpose. I never imagined I would ever think a car had too much power until I owned one. Personally I think about 400 crank hp and is plenty fast for the street.

Conclusion: Street....SC. Max Power.....TT. Obviously just my opinion.

 

just be aware going into a greddy that you lose your front bumper bar and crash protection.

 

This is not correct...maybe debatable...not its not a true statement. There are pluses and minus to both in terms of safety, but if this board is any indication, there have been 3 Vortech engine failures, numerous ATI failures, and 5 Greddy failures. Each failure was very specific...some due to tuning, other due to fuel, timing, others just simply gave out without any real cause.

In regards to your WHP question. 10psi on a TT kit is close to 450whp, and 10psi on a Vortech is probably near 400-425whp. But the power is delivered in a totally different fashion. The SC is linear, and the TT is parobolic. It makes a huge difference on the street...like night and day..since I have driven both. In my opinion, and the opinion of PE's chief engineering, anything above 400whp, even with PERFECT tuning, is not safe for the long term, unless you build the bottom end. Yes, there are guys on the boards running more power, but it's doubtful these engines will last. Figure about $4000-$5000 for a basic forged rebuid, including engine removal and replacement. Then add $5500 for the TT kit...if you dont have one already....then there are gauges, tuning, BOV, boost controller...the list goes on and on and on...

You sounds too confident......be cautious...there is nothing bolt on or "turn-key" about any of these kits. There is always an element of risk, and it can't be completely be mitigated.

 

Well said!!! This is the main reason I have gone with the HKS SC. For me, it is an acceptable balance of all the factors....quality, simplicity, cost, power, and risk.