alpine

This could be interesting because APS initially was going to go with "stock type" plugs and then they decided One Step Colder was needed.

I would guess that since Turbonetics is going with Higher PSI, you would need at least one step colder, and depending on you overall driving style, you could potentially go with 2 steps.

Let us know what they come up with, and perhaps any insight as to why to stay/go with different plugs.

I did find a fairly decent article some time ago on this particular subject, check it out if you like:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/64378/


thanks

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Well I think some of it is going to do with the A/Fs with stock plugs. I know that initially Turbonetics was seeing A/Fs of 9.5:1 to 10:1 on my car but that was with the initial tune. Running that rich you would not need plugs. Even at the final A/F of 11:1 -11.5:1 it still might not need it. I'll see what Brad and Jahme say.

kcobean

iTrader: (2)

I know I asked this once before, but the answer was kinda muddy, so at the risk of being a pain, I'd like to ask this again.....

How is it safe to run this system at 8 PSI with stock internals when it's considered by most to be unsafe to run the GReddy TT over 5.6 PSI without doing internals? Is it because the reflash is able to retard timing, where the TT kit out of the box is not? I'm just trying to understand the differences that would permit such a difference in boost levels. To the novice eye, it looks like the Turbonetics kit is running what is considered on other kits to be dangerously high boost levels.

Thanks for any clarification!

Brandon@Forged

Two different size turbo's, same psi doesn't necessarily mean it's going to be flowing the same CFMs as another turbo running the same psi.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Exactly. And you are correct on another point this kit retards the timing for the 8 PSI its running where as the Greddy does not. gq has been running his at close to 8 PSI but has his timing retarded.

7 eleven

If all tuning is equal and there is not detonation, power is what breaks parts not the amount of boost. The lack of timing retard on the out of the box Greddy can not be fixed by internals without drasticly lowering the compresstion ratio. You have to retard the timing to run any boost above 5.6psi at a 10.3:1 compression ratio safely.

The Turbonetics kit does not make the same power as the twin setups do at the same amount of boost. For example: the Turbonetics kit makes between 365whp and 390whp at 8psi. While the twin setups make between 400whp and 435whp at the same boost level. So the single setup runs higher boost due to the lower stress from lower power levels.

The Stillen stage 3 kit runs 7-8 psi and makes between 340whp and 360whp. With Stock internals, 400whp has been proven to be a sustainable goal. It doesn't matter how much boost is used to reach that, to a point.

Gary

Brandon@Forged

As long as you have a shielded crank and cam angle sensor wire.

7 eleven

I'm still waiting for the jury on that one. I'm glad APS errored on the safe side of things, but I'm not signing off on it yet. I'm sure time will tell.
Gary

Brandon@Forged

Agreed. I've thought about it though, and I can't think of any other solution. If Nissan is making the rods out of the same material, and some motors are lasting in one part of the country and some aren't in the same part of the country, then it has nothing to do with altitude or the rods (assuming the tuning is fine and everything is a-ok).

Also agree about time will tell. AFAIK, the highest rwhp 350Z has been 505 by Tuan @ GRD Performance with the APS kit (which had a shielded crank and cam angle sensor wire). That will definately add to the stories to come about whether or not the C&CAS wire is to blame for the blown motors.

7 eleven

o


Then of course there is Charles with 467+whp without one and he beat the living hell out his on the street for a period of time not just a dyno pass or two. So I know his tune was good. We'll see how it pans out.

Ok sorry for the hijack.

Gary

Brandon@Forged

Yeah.

Back on topic.

ihatethatbobbarker

505 on stock internals?!?!

Brandon@Forged

Yep. 93 octane.

zero2prove is his member name.

ihatethatbobbarker

whoah that kicks ***.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Hopefully it doesn't kick rods too....

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Update time everyone: I talked to Brad this morning. Looks like all systems are go for this week. Most likely getting it Friday but could be as early as tomorrow. They put about 400 miles on my car the last week or so. Both hard driven miles and tame driving. Brad even mentioned he did a rush hour traffic test to see how it would do and it ran great! Car idles better then it did stock and pulls like no tomorrow. He mentioned that even in rush hour the car never ran hot/overheated or anything of the sort. He did say that I'm going to want to installl that diff soon as the car has so much power that in second if you drop the gas you're not getting traction till 6th. Especially with all this rain he said it could get squirrly due to the amount of power its making. Thank God I have my diff install guy on hold for this Sat to do the install. Also going on saturday are my gauges, Blitz Radaitor hose, SPC camber arms, SPC toe bolts, alignment, and the Nismo diff cover. Might go ahead and switch tires this weekend too to some BFG KDW2s. WE'll see. Guess I'll be calling in sick next week. Is it bad if I already plan to sleep in my car for the week?

thrifiddytt

don't forget about your redline oil. Nismo oil is way too clunky. Go with 75w90 with a friction mod, it's still kinda up in the air between 75w90 and 75w90ns, but the ns is very grabby. breakin period sucks, damn eights

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for reminding me. I was going to try to get a hold of some Royal Purple but I think the Redline is much more easy to get a hold of. So do I need to change the fluid immediately after break in?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah and how many bottles of Redline do I need? Also what Friction modifier did you use with the Redline 75-90?

thrifiddytt

here's what you'll need and I didn't bother with the Nismo oil for the very first install (lots of complaints about sound):
4 quarts of Redline 75w90 (or 75w90ns) with a friction modifier
I'll get the part number for you when I get home tonight. It seems to be a little quieter with the 75w90. And don't forget the infamous mod on the ecu for the best traction