Hey, Im planning on a 2004 350z 6mt , and i was doing some searching and i found that Intake , Test pipes , and ecu give a good bit of power but i really didnt find the HP gains and etc..

I want the car too be able too run low 13's high 12's do u think i can achive that with just those 3 things? thx alot


- Jack

 

with those mods, you will most likely be in the high 13s.

With plenum, intake, crank pulley, test pipes, exhaust, headers, cams, and reflash ecu you would most likely only hit mid to low 13's.

 

I wouln't bother with and ECU upgrade if you just have a couple bolt ons. Start with a pulley and high flow cats or test pipes. Definite bang for the buck.

 

350evo 3.9 final drive.
Cheers
BJ@350EVO.com

 

I would start off with drivetrain mods. Drivetrains mods really open up the 350Z's and shows its true definition of power. Start off with a light weight clutch/flywheel combo. If drivability is not an issue for you I would go with the Tilton setup, if drivability is an issue for you then the JWT combo is a nice setup. If you have the money for it, the 350EVO 3.9 Final Drive Gear is another great way to go.

 

^^^ ahhh i never knew that... thanks, And also How much am i going too spend too land in the Low 13's high 12's? N/A of course?

 

any1 else?

 

Here's my recommendation:

• AAM spacer (better when it was a group buy)
• POP charger
• UR main pulley only
• Cheap TopSpeed or DC header (good deals out there for under $400) - it offers more noticeable gain than high flow cats and there's no rasp issues if you keep the stock cats.
• Cheap Y pipe
• Hotchkis sways and springs
• 245/40 tires all round. - Even better handling, better looks, and the 245/40 rear will lower your gearing to give the car an extra kick.
• H&R 25mm rear bolt-on spacers to make your car look perfect with the Hotchkis drop.
• Russel brake lines and HP+ front pads and HPS rear pads (check raceshopper.com)
• CG Lock for Solo2 or spirited outings.

That list addresses a little of everything. Looks, handling, braking, and acceleration. It can be purchased for roughly $2K USD.

IMO, after that, bang for buck greatly diminishes. Driveability also starts to take a hit beyond that point.

I'm actually selling some of my mods to get back to the exact list mentioned above because there was little worthwhile gain when I went beyond that.

Cool thing is that everything listed is completely bolt-on and you can easily return the car to stock if required.

 

I kinda agree with the prior post...

I'm a fairly cheep guy, so I too look for the B-B-B. This is my route to the 13's...

So I decided to buy a base model 04 Z, guess I can always buy a NISMO or KAAZ LSD later. But I like everyone else on this forum wants more HP and a unique car. So how do I keep it n/a and squeeze more out...? Remember, I'm cheep, so no $10,000 TT w/install for me.

So it all started like this...
Engine
Grnd. Kit = 50
Home Grown Filter + Shield = 75...+5hp
Brand X_eng. dampener = 50
AAM spacer = 185...+10hp
TS Headers + JETHOT = 450...+8hp
Helix HF cats + JETHOT = 620...+10hp
Future inst. a Stillen TD, UR pulley, and TS reflash = 1900...+15hp
Visuals
RS*R down springs...205
Volks SF Winning w/tires = 3500

$6985 later...I have car that I love for (36,500) I will guestimate in the end my car will produce 335HP and with 295's in the back who needs LSD in a staight line...jk

 

lollll nice...

 

Oh and wtf is a Pop charger? isnt it just the filter? why would you do that? i rather leave the stock intake

 

???... just a filter, mmmwhhhaaaaaahhaa! Yea, just a filter that allows over 2x more air into the engine. Do yourself a favor, get rid (store/put away) of the stock filter and buy yourself a JWT "popcharger". It's a cheep mod and easy install...definitely worth it! $110 I think..?

 

You can't add up mods like that. you will be at somewhere around 310-325 to the crank with those mods and somwhere in the ballpark of 250-270 to the wheels. Not every mod gives their max gain at peak. Some give no gain at peak, but 10 hp at 3200 rpms or at 6600 rpms for example.

As far as your gains you will get from the parts you listed above. All those #'s should be acheivable, but just not all added on top of each other at peak.

 

popcharger is worth it for the sound alone... regardless of whether it adds hp

 

Hmmm, very interesting. I really am not 100% sure what to think, but I would say, "most likely your right Zivman" I thought I was being conservative with those numbers. I guess the only thing that stumps me is you read about all these "products" and their dynoed WHP being roughly what I posted for crank HP, I guess -20% error isn't enough? All the numbers I posted have to do with products moving more air thru the system. So you would think the modded engine's power band would be similar to the stock system. More air drawn thru a larger filter, more air into all cylinders especially 1 and 2 with the spacer, more air pushed/pulled out with smooth air flow induced by longer tubular headers, into and out of fairly free flowing cats, and into a TD exhaust which once flowing would keep flowing thru draft, all brought together by a smarter ECU. Yea, that was out there... I guess it's my opinion that all those products would come close to the numbers I posted between 5000-6600k based on my theory, which is just a theory

In the end $3230 for a conservative 38 CHP isn't to bad

Zquicksilver

 

Once you start doing baseline dynos then adding a few parts and redyno'ing the car, you will come to realize how manufacturer's label gains. It is kind of a dissapointing realization. I just ran my car on the dyno with headers, testpipes, exhaust, plenum, intake, bored throttlebody, and UR crank pulley and pulled 256.9 HP. having no baseline to go off, I am guessing my car to be around 312 hp to the crank. A lot of my mods most likely added power somewhere other than where peak HP was made. Trust me, if you have time to hang out and watch some dynos and get a few runs in with your car, you will have a new understanding of the term 'gains'.

 

yea, gains...mmmmwhhaahaaa says the manufacturer!

Did you ever send your ECU out for a re-flash? You may be able to get a little more out of your mods. I may do it around this time next year, after I get my TD exhaust.

Zquicksilver

 

ECU is back. At first it didn't seem to noticable (after tooling around in a rainstorm upon its return), but today I had a chance to take if for a spin. It pulls hard. down low, not too much difference if any, but 4000+ rpms and it rips. On top of that, the increased redline is crazy and I had the idle raised which is an awesome improvement. The car is just a lot smoother overall. Worth $600? I don't know, but it made a noticable difference.

 

Now that you have extra air intake and flow, you should retune your ECU! You could probably squeeze a couple extra horses out!

 

ECU should always be done last. You don't want to have to keep reflashing for new mods.