I just finished mine, my neighbor helped me out big time. I think it took about an hour to do. I just installed the MREV V2, none of the other jibber jabber.

As for the drive after, I'm think I feel a little somethin...I need more test time though, I only took it out for like 2 minutes and a few backroad pulls.

Should I reset the ECU or will it figure it out itself?

 

Don't worry about resetting, I didn't and I'm still running strong.

Do as many WOT / redline runs as possible to bump the ECU into the performance map, that's as good or better than what a reset will do anyway.

If anyone is interested, earlier in this thread I mentioned getting about 8 gallons of 100 octane which resulted in a tank of ~95+ octane. Well that was frickin' awesome and I was pulling like crazy, but I was not about to spend $80 per tank of gas just to commute to and from work/school. So I put 91 octane back into the car on the next tank.

It felt like I was in limp mode. It was absolutely insane power loss, according to the butt dyno. 2nd gear on a flat surface had no power. I stepped on the gas and it didn't go anywhere, it felt like I was in 6th.

Then, several WOT/redline runs over the course of a couple of days, and the power came back. Just yesterday, I drove me (200lbs) and my friend (250lbs) on the freeway and third gear was pulling better than ever. Which is surprising because before the power came back, just me in the car felt like **** in 3rd gear.

I'm glad the power came back, but I'm also looking forward to my tune with the Greddy Emanage ultimate and the new kinetix hfc.

 

I reset mine.. by just disconnecting the batteries for the duration of the install.. as soon as i disconnected it, i drained the battery by holding the brake pedal for a bit.. i did a few redline runs right after i got it out of the garage.. i felt a bit of torque gain.. and i noticed that the popcharger got slightly louder also.

 

i need to hurry and do mine. im just waiting on the crank pulley and hyperforce. i might as well order isothermal....

 

Bosssho....

Thinking about going with the crawford plenum with my MREV 2. I've held off installing my MREV2 because I wanted to get other opinions with this set up. Your posts have been helpful... I have a unichip so I would get a tune soon after my install if I decide to go this route BUT what did you mean you said,

re-tap a hole?

post or hit me with a PM

 

Why is 4th gear the correct "gear" to dyno the A/T in? The auto tranny has a torque converter so it's never has a constant gear ratio. Now if you can fiqure out how to lock the converter then it's a different story. The A/T 350Zs and G35s I've seen dyno all made more power in 3rd gear than in 4th.

 

I'm no expert in this area, but I've always been told that on our Zs and Gs, in order to dyno in a 1:1 gear ratio, you would dyno it in 5th for manuals and 4th gear for autos.

 

I believe I am way too lean that the ecu is pulling timing...
To make it worse, there was a Jetta (02~03) VR6 that was
right on my *** that I could not pull away from....

guess I should get a tune soon or simply take away my spacer.

FYI: I currently have 5/16" spacer + MREV2

Any advices? I believe I wouldn't be going for a tune so soon

 

i highly doubt that jetta vr6 was stock.. even if your ecu was pulling timing, it should still be faster than a jetta right?

 

If you dont want to get tuned, maybe you're better off with no spacer and just run the MREV2. We know it makes like 13hp by itself.

 

UPDATE

I will be getting kinetix HFC on the car soon and getting a tune with the Greddy emanage ultimate.

Stay tuned for results. ETA 3 weeks. I'm busy as a ****.

This will be interesting, everyone can see what kind of HP you can make with stock intake and stock exhaust.

 

Thank you for the reply Bro, I really feel like I should get a tune or do sth.. ( I felt that my car bog sometimes after the Mrev2 + 5/16" but not all the time tho). Yet, after this morning...driving to work as usual and getting tailgated by that jetta without being able to pull an inch from him, I know that I should remove the spacer by now and put it back on when I can afford the money and more importantly the time to get a dyno shop and a good tuner to do some tuning

Btw, is there any piggyback or whatever that can allow a newbie to tune the A/F ratio on the dyno? I dun feel like I can find a good tuner in Toronto (unless if I have a good holiday week that I can spend in the states lol)

Thanks again everyone

 

Wired, I too am interested in getting tuned with either the UTEC or eManange. If you would be so kind, what were the reasons for you choosing the eManage? Thanks.

 

Well I didn't want the eManage blue because of the problems burning out coil packs that I read about. I would rather not have to stockpile coils ready for replacement all the time. So I went with the eManage Ultimate.

I wanted to get tuned at the same place I got my dyno (for this thread), and I mentioned UTEC to the guy and he said UTEC is more of a pain in the *** than one would think.

I don't really need all the advanced functions that UTEC has. Plus, I got a good deal on a used EU from the marketplace section... 750 including complete harness and pre-wired autosport harness. It was wired correctly (I checked) so that saved me a ton of time.

Plus, I think the EU should be pretty self-tuneable if I get the AAM cipher tool and datalog stuff like air/fuel ratio, injector pulse, timing etc. I wanted to be able to do some self-fine-tuning easily, so EU was a good choice since it is windows XP and laptop friendly.

**Disclaimer** Do not take my word for any of what is written below, you should do independent research and verify what you can and should do (and more importantly, what you should NOT do) with a tuner. I am not a tuner and don't pretend to be one.

Here's what you can do (I think) -

Get the EU, get an aftermarket wideband sensor, and get a bung welded at the junction in your y-pipe. Then plug it into the EU and make ABSOLUTELY sure it is working properly with little margin for error. If you have a 2004.5 or newer, you can check the AFR of the aftermarket wideband versus the stock widebands using the AAM cipher tool.

If the aftermarket wideband is working okay, use the EU to do feedback-based target-air/fuel tuning. I do not know what AFR you should use as the target, maybe 13 up to 5000rpm and 12.5 to redline (DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THIS). Once it finds its target map, turn the feedback tuning feature off and simply use the map it generates. The cool thing about this is if you get new mods, you can just turn the feedback on again and it will re-adjust the air-fuel ratio to be spot on.

The reason you don't want to use feedback tuning ALL the time is that if for some reason your wideband stops working properly, your car could blow up from receiving bad data. Let's say you're running lean but your wideband reads that you are running perfect. The EU will not adjust to the lean condition and you will be at risk for detonation...

Now for the more economical version:

Since widebands and welding and junk is expensive, you can just get the AAM cipher tool. It is $400 which is about the price of a good wideband anyway. If you have a 2004.5 or newer, you can use a look-up table that translates wideband voltage to AFR (posted in a cipher thread in the Engine Drivetrain Forced Induction forum). Datalog the AFR and use the data to little by little adjust the pulse widths on the injectors using the EU. I wouldn't get too crazy with adjusting timing though, because the EU still can't set overall (final) timing, only offset (plus or minus) from stock ECU timing.

Hope this helps.

 

OMG, thanks wired, this is some very detailed feedbacks =) I appreciate it, at the meantime I would be looking for a good dyno shop / hardwares to tune my fuel mixture this few months.. Moreover, I believe I will take my 5/16 spacer off tonite to see if it will make a difference in any sense

 

godmans, what is your AFR? How do you know your ECU is pulling timing? At what RPM? Thanks

I have advanced 2% timing again and on 93 octane see no retards, or any different than before MREV-V2 was added to ½” spacer.

 

Yeah, that was quite the response from wired huh. He is into that self tuning thing like a madman and God love him for it.

If you are like me and don't have that desire to go ***** out with the self tuning spend the $600 and get a Technosquare or AAM tune based on your mods, and you won't have to take anything out of your car except your glove box and ECU to ship it in and be done...if it's a money thing for now, just take the spacer off and call it a day like Wired said with the MREV V2 for now until money is right for a tune.

If you want to go into it and fine tune the $hit out of everything, or if you plan on a lot more mods, do what Wired said and get the self tuning means b/c your ends will keep changing and it will be a good investment.

For me I am done...the pulley is going on next week and that's it...If I don't hit the 13s at my track I will just keep gutting the $&$&$ car until I get my power to weight ratio down to where I can do it that way.

 

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=150103


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
FYI - AAM is running a GB on their reflash over on the Fresh Alloy Forums under both 350Z and G35..
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

wired any update on the dyno with emanage ultimate and HFC?

 

Not yet... I need to find a chunk of free time