Motordyne XYZ-Pipe (Pilot Production)
#282
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If you look on the motordyne website, dyno section, the last dyno sheet, that was mine. MRC won't fudge any numbers, I was there the entire time when they did it and watched everything they did. They even made sure the temp and everything else was the same before installing a new part, very professional and I would not hesitate to bring my car there for work, so rest assured the numbers will be very accurate.
Tony, will mrc just be installing and dynoing the products in question then put back the owners previous items? If I get my headlights by wed, I could probably do a test for you on thursday if Julian is free, just to have another perspective. If so, I'll let you know how things turn out.
My mods:
Nismo exhaust w/stock cats
mrev 2
5/16 spacer
Tony, will mrc just be installing and dynoing the products in question then put back the owners previous items? If I get my headlights by wed, I could probably do a test for you on thursday if Julian is free, just to have another perspective. If so, I'll let you know how things turn out.
My mods:
Nismo exhaust w/stock cats
mrev 2
5/16 spacer
#283
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Originally Posted by denchan350gt
Tony my ear was ringing for a couple of hrs after hearing the shockwave exhaust!! If you want race car loud this is the exhaust to get with the option of switching to Very Quiet (rear section) quickly.
#284
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Originally Posted by 2004Black350z
Sum 1 take a fckin sound clip of this exhaust. I want LOUD exhaust!!!
You will hear it reverberate off concrete freeway dividers, other cars, nearby walls, large structures and through your neighborhood.
If you have a neighbor you don't like just drive by his house a 3AM and you'll fix'em real quick.
![hehehe](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif)
Then just clamp on the VQ muffler and your right back to a daily driver.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#286
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Originally Posted by 3kgtslflip
Tony, will mrc just be installing and dynoing the products in question then put back the owners previous items?
He's currently running a JIC single so it will be a good benchmark for a comparison.
#288
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Originally Posted by Hydrazine
That's a slam dunk with a resonated XYZ and Shockwave smacked up on test pipes.
You will hear it reverberate off concrete freeway dividers, other cars, nearby walls, large structures and through your neighborhood.
If you have a neighbor you don't like just drive by his house a 3AM and you'll fix'em real quick.
Then just clamp on the VQ muffler and your right back to a daily driver.![Stick Out Tongue](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
You will hear it reverberate off concrete freeway dividers, other cars, nearby walls, large structures and through your neighborhood.
If you have a neighbor you don't like just drive by his house a 3AM and you'll fix'em real quick.
![hehehe](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif)
Then just clamp on the VQ muffler and your right back to a daily driver.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#291
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Originally Posted by Get_Zwole
is it tollerable inside the car? thats all i care about i dont care about. Cops dont really care about exhausts around here. I just want a exotic loud *** exhaust.with minimal drone.
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
With stock cats while cruising on the freeway, you can barely hear it. You hear the tires more than the exhaust. Once you rev it up and slam the gas it screams beautifully.
With test pipes while cruising on the freeway, you can clearly hear it but its no problem at all. Under moderate load it starts to get loud. Once you rev it up and slam the gas, it's race car loud.
#294
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
That's a slam dunk with a resonated XYZ and Shockwave smacked up on test pipes.
You will hear it reverberate off concrete freeway dividers, other cars, nearby walls, large structures and through your neighborhood.
If you have a neighbor you don't like just drive by his house a 3AM and you'll fix'em real quick.
Then just clamp on the VQ muffler and your right back to a daily driver.![Stick Out Tongue](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
You will hear it reverberate off concrete freeway dividers, other cars, nearby walls, large structures and through your neighborhood.
If you have a neighbor you don't like just drive by his house a 3AM and you'll fix'em real quick.
![hehehe](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/lol.gif)
Then just clamp on the VQ muffler and your right back to a daily driver.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#295
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![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
It sounds awesome from inside. In fact, I'm always tempted to rev it up high.
Not reving it is a challenge.
With stock cats while cruising on the freeway, you can barely hear it. You hear the tires more than the exhaust. Once you rev it up and slam the gas it screams beautifully.
With test pipes while cruising on the freeway, you can clearly hear it but its no problem at all. Under moderate load it starts to get loud. Once you rev it up and slam the gas, it's race car loud.
![thumbup](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
With stock cats while cruising on the freeway, you can barely hear it. You hear the tires more than the exhaust. Once you rev it up and slam the gas it screams beautifully.
With test pipes while cruising on the freeway, you can clearly hear it but its no problem at all. Under moderate load it starts to get loud. Once you rev it up and slam the gas, it's race car loud.
I just dont like the looks of that tip could you put that TI tip on there for some of us or something? Other then the tip exhaust looks great.
#297
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Plumpzz,
You have a video camera right? Can you get some sound clips of your current exhaust now and also when you run it on the dyno?
Then video it again when the XYZ and shockwave are on the dyno. Then once again for the same comparative daily driving conditions.
Thanks,
Tony
You have a video camera right? Can you get some sound clips of your current exhaust now and also when you run it on the dyno?
Then video it again when the XYZ and shockwave are on the dyno. Then once again for the same comparative daily driving conditions.
Thanks,
Tony
#298
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Originally Posted by Get_Zwole
^^^^ that is pure sex. Ive always wondered how they make the colors on titanium. Just heat treat it? or do they dip it in something?
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
I'm not at liberty to say how its done...
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
well its not somethign that is rocket science, but it surely isnt easy, and no secret. I have actually seen this take place before.
First you need to have an anodizer and know how to use it.
Note: This process is different from that used to anodize aluminum.
The basic process is simple:
Use rubber gloves to avoid electrocution. Follow all normal high-voltage handling guidelines.
You need an electrolyte solution in a non-conducting container.
TSP (trisodium phosphate), ammonium-phosphate, and Borax are among the chemicals I've used. TSP is found in the paint department (for washing walls). Ammonium phosphate is a lawn fertilizer. Borax is found in the laundry aisle (non-chlorine bleach). It's not really critical what chemical or how strong, but avoid chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. For either TSP or Borax, about 5g/l is a good concentration (about 1/10 of saturated). Remember: The water is what does the work; the salt or acid is just an ion source.
NOTE: Environmentally sensitive people worry about TSP and the environment. The electrolyte is not consumed. Several years of anodizing would release as much phosphate into the environment as a single load of laundry or a single treatment of ChemLawn. TSP is only bad if it gets into the aquifers: Just don't pour it down the drain! Save it for reuse, or dilute and spray it on the garden.
I use a Rubbermaid® storage container because they resist chemicals well, last a long time, have lids, and are available everywhere.
For the Cathode (negative electrode): Use a scrap piece of metal immersed in the solution. I use a loosely coiled titanium wire, but anything non-rusting should work.
Rule of thumb: The immersed surface area of the cathode should be greater than that of the anode (work piece).
In use, hydrogen will bubble off of this piece. For large pieces, make sure you have adequate ventilation to avoid an explosion hazard.
Attach the piece to be colored, the work piece, to the anode (positive electrode). It must be free of oils. I often wipe things down with acetone or alcohol to make sure they are clean. Don't allow any non-titanium parts of the anode circuit to touch the solution. I often lower my pieces into the solution on a titanium hook, or with titanium tongs (both homemade).
After the piece is immersed, adjust the rectified, regulated, (protected, fused) voltage to get the color you want (between 25-120 vdc).
Color is voltage dependant. For bigger pieces, it just takes longer. Or more current. Use fuses, an ammeter, and/or a power resistor (or a light bulb in series) to avoid burning out your anodizer.
Color Guide: The exact voltage it takes to get a particular color depends on many variable factors such as free-ion content of the electrolyte, surface finish of the metal, stability of the voltage source, and so on. If you want 2 pieces to exactly match, anodize them at the same time.
As a rule of thumb, the spectrum is that shown in the MrTitanium logo. The first tinge of bronze appears at around 18 volts, the near-white blue is around 50 volts, and the bright green is around 110. There is no true red, and the dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints. See my Physics page for more details about how and why the colors work.
Never let the anode and cathode pieces touch each other; short-circuit welding is a technique not covered here
Note: This process is different from that used to anodize aluminum.
The basic process is simple:
Use rubber gloves to avoid electrocution. Follow all normal high-voltage handling guidelines.
You need an electrolyte solution in a non-conducting container.
TSP (trisodium phosphate), ammonium-phosphate, and Borax are among the chemicals I've used. TSP is found in the paint department (for washing walls). Ammonium phosphate is a lawn fertilizer. Borax is found in the laundry aisle (non-chlorine bleach). It's not really critical what chemical or how strong, but avoid chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. For either TSP or Borax, about 5g/l is a good concentration (about 1/10 of saturated). Remember: The water is what does the work; the salt or acid is just an ion source.
NOTE: Environmentally sensitive people worry about TSP and the environment. The electrolyte is not consumed. Several years of anodizing would release as much phosphate into the environment as a single load of laundry or a single treatment of ChemLawn. TSP is only bad if it gets into the aquifers: Just don't pour it down the drain! Save it for reuse, or dilute and spray it on the garden.
I use a Rubbermaid® storage container because they resist chemicals well, last a long time, have lids, and are available everywhere.
For the Cathode (negative electrode): Use a scrap piece of metal immersed in the solution. I use a loosely coiled titanium wire, but anything non-rusting should work.
Rule of thumb: The immersed surface area of the cathode should be greater than that of the anode (work piece).
In use, hydrogen will bubble off of this piece. For large pieces, make sure you have adequate ventilation to avoid an explosion hazard.
Attach the piece to be colored, the work piece, to the anode (positive electrode). It must be free of oils. I often wipe things down with acetone or alcohol to make sure they are clean. Don't allow any non-titanium parts of the anode circuit to touch the solution. I often lower my pieces into the solution on a titanium hook, or with titanium tongs (both homemade).
After the piece is immersed, adjust the rectified, regulated, (protected, fused) voltage to get the color you want (between 25-120 vdc).
Color is voltage dependant. For bigger pieces, it just takes longer. Or more current. Use fuses, an ammeter, and/or a power resistor (or a light bulb in series) to avoid burning out your anodizer.
Color Guide: The exact voltage it takes to get a particular color depends on many variable factors such as free-ion content of the electrolyte, surface finish of the metal, stability of the voltage source, and so on. If you want 2 pieces to exactly match, anodize them at the same time.
As a rule of thumb, the spectrum is that shown in the MrTitanium logo. The first tinge of bronze appears at around 18 volts, the near-white blue is around 50 volts, and the bright green is around 110. There is no true red, and the dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints. See my Physics page for more details about how and why the colors work.
Never let the anode and cathode pieces touch each other; short-circuit welding is a technique not covered here
if you really wanna learn more check the forums here as well
http://weldingweb.com
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 08-08-2008 at 09:34 AM.
#299
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I just installed the helix non resonated test pipes...
so now i have:
stock headers -> TPs -> STOCK y-pipe -> NISMO mid pipe -> NISMO muffler
I left my XYZ w/ resonator out right now for a reason... and that is to see how bad the rasp would be... well let me tell you, it rasps sooooo BAD...
This sunday, we will be swapping in the XYZ w/ straight section and then with the resonator to see what the resonator can do. im keeping my fingers crossed that it will clean up most of the rasp.
stay tuned...
so now i have:
stock headers -> TPs -> STOCK y-pipe -> NISMO mid pipe -> NISMO muffler
I left my XYZ w/ resonator out right now for a reason... and that is to see how bad the rasp would be... well let me tell you, it rasps sooooo BAD...
This sunday, we will be swapping in the XYZ w/ straight section and then with the resonator to see what the resonator can do. im keeping my fingers crossed that it will clean up most of the rasp.
stay tuned...
#300
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^ok good news. altho i wish you got hfc so the results coulda been a little more accurate for me. but good enough
besides the rasp, can you keep note of how much louder it is with the straight section as compared with the resonator? Let me know if you hear a noticeable volume difference. Thanks man
besides the rasp, can you keep note of how much louder it is with the straight section as compared with the resonator? Let me know if you hear a noticeable volume difference. Thanks man