ZGuts

Hey everybody, just got my first Z a few months ago and love it! I am new to this forum so I apologize if this thread is stupid or anything. I'm looking to get an exhaust lately so I called up the local exhaust shop and he said he would start from after the cats with an X pipe that leads to two glass pack mufflers or a flowmaster muffler for 500.
So my question is, has anyone had any experience with glass packs on their Z and if so, what was your take on it. Or if I should not even consider it. I appreciate the help a lot you guys.

ZS14RR

iTrader: (30)

Used aftermarket exhaust will 100x better. Your local muffler shop is junk.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Why are you replacing your exhaust?

1) the current exhaust is damaged and not working
2) you want to improve performance
3) you want to improve sound
4) you have $500 burning a hole in your pocket and want to buy something for your car
5) you want a fart cannon that sounds like the cool kids driving Honda Civics

ZGuts

Option #3! lol I have looked into exhausts but they're definitely not cheap. So I thought why not just get a custom exhaust for like half the price? But judging by #5 and ZS14RR's answer, I should stay away from a glass pack exhaust.

JaE35z

iTrader: (11)

500 dollars is too much..if you want a deeper tone to your stock exhaust pick up a 12" vibrant bottle resonator and put it on your midpipe. Another solid option is high flow cats

SR71

iTrader: (1)

How will this help the forum run better?

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

Your exhaust shop has no idea what works for a 350z

Spend some time on the forum, especially this thread and you will find what is best for a Z:

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...questions.html

Landon_G03z

I had glasspacks on my 5.7l v8 1994 silverado and it sounded like a monster. On that note, please keep them off of the Z.. I'd put a cheap rep on before I put glasspacks on it. But, everyone has their own opinion lol

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

If you're looking to improve the sound, I would suggest visiting some local Z meets and hearing other folks' exhaust sounds. You can also check Youtube, but that usually won't give you a real feel for the sound - you need to hear it in person. Once you've found a sound that you like, find out what exhaust, cats, headers, intake, and plenum/spacer the guy is running - because all of that goes into the sound. Then you'll know what it takes to get the sound that you are looking for.

This is a much better option than spending money on something to only find out how it sounds after the money is gone.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

If your car is NA, their isnt much for you to loose or gain with having a custom muffler made/built.

There is no need for reinventing the wheel, the little if any R&D out there yeild the most commonly used exhaust pipe size....

my suggestion would be to get either test pipes or high flow cats, something that opens to at least 2.5 inch off the already 2.25 inch header to cat connection point (Assuming your staying with oem headers - which i wouldnt change out, just leave those alone)

From there get berk or similar HFCats that open to either 2.5 or 3" piping....you choose...

- from there (again no need to reinvent the wheel) buy a quality Y pipe that matches the piping size you have in and out of it....i would go for an out size of 3 inch....

---Now this is where you get the local muffler shop to bend pipe for you--

This point you want to find a muffler shop that can get you SS piping and hands down has a mandrel tubing bender, if not then the bends in the pipe are gonna look like crap.......pinch the ID of the pipe and not have consistent flow...

Example of mandrel bent tubing:


example of non mandrel bent - ie, typical muffler shop hydraulic bender


- prior to going, you would want to find online the exhaust flange to mate with your Y pipe configuration and take it to them.....example:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/221070415791?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar


Welding:
Tig vs mig - all/most local muffler shops are gonna wanna do the job using plain, non SS tubing and then they are gonna want to mig weld the job....

Dont do it...find a shop that can do SS steel, has a mandrel bender and can tig weld it for you...

Tig welding:



Horrible mig welding:



Then, end with mufflers and tips or muffler with tip combo - this part is your choice, hell you can buy them anywhere.........online, ebay, etc...this far back in the system its really not gonna matter much, especially on an NA car.....

Muffler and separate tips:



muffler tip combo:


-- side note, ive always wanted to try and source some really good mufflers/tips from higher end big liter Merc or BMW's at the junk yard....you can see those luxury cars, ie, M3's, etc actually do have SS exhaust systems, etc and have higher end mufflers that i bet would go nice with the Z if you can find one that works well/fits, etc....

You can see some custom jobs in this thread:
-this thread just for reference, you can do single, dual, whatever....
https://my350z.com/forum/media-share...single+exhaust

Main thing is finding a shop that can Tig weld, mandrel bender and sourcing the flanges for them.

in TX, this would cost no more than $200-300 easy...where your at, maybe more....500 should do it..but then again you maybe able to find an exhaust for sale, online shipped to you for that much or less...

-J

ZGuts

I appreciate the input! I definitely will stay away from Glasspacks. I found a shop here in the Seattle area that does do TIG welding and uses SS piping for all their exhaust work so I am gonna give that a shot and see how much it runs for and what they can offer. Thanks again guys!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I say go to that shop, ensure they have a mandrel bender - which they probably do......

take a purchased y pipe with you and explain to them what you want...ie, y pipe back system.....

take the mufflers you purchase as well......

best you buy all the parts and have them do the inbetween....only way your gonna get the best overall price..

next, have them get the car in the air and show them what you want done...discuss and confirm a price and say yes or no..

otherwise they will get started as if its a done deal and in the end charge you whatever they want...and you will be stuck arguing and your car up on THEIR lift.....

-J

logan09

iTrader: (1)

I hope that guy doing the tig welding was just tacking parts up without gloves and not welding lol. That tig rod gets hot (experience)

2bad240

iTrader: (6)

I tig all the time with out gloves.. But I don't have girly hands

logan09

iTrader: (1)

Lol, I always wore tig gloves except for tacking parts up. I used to able to weld a mean 6g dbl bevel groove on sched. 2 pipe. Now I just do spray transfer mig welding all day, oh how I'd love to do some tig now days

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

heavily disagree with the welding part, you can mid stainless just fine tig is a little prettier but unneeded the picture posted is simply done by someone who dosnt know how to weld and the residue on either side shows its flux core(which technically isnt mig since theres no inert gas), which does fine if your welding 1/4 inch with spray transfer and a $3000+ mig machine but not the home hobby welders people buy. i did my own 4 inch exhaust with a cheap hobart auto arc and trimix and looks far better then that despite it being my first time welding stainless(granted i do have previous welding experience. just dont weld mild with tri mix to use up whats left, it works but isnt nearly as nice looking only a little better then straight co2 *whistle*

if a shop is doing it, well shop level mig welders pulse and have a rediculous number of features both lincoln and miller offer your typical shop type mig that it is nearly impossible to tell the difference between it and tig(even pulses automatically, we had these when i went to school back in 04 and the machines where at least 6 or 7 years old then)

the major reason people use tig is it can do many specialized jobs like chromoly and aluminum since it is more precise heat control. as well as filler material use since your dipping the rod vs being fed in, thats all weld splatter is on a proper mig setup is excess metal. warping will be about the same for both if you know what your doing though

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I hear you, and you obviously are familiar and know welding much more....the OP to the thread obviosuly doesnt....im trying to point him to where he can ask simple questions and end up with a much better result...im trying to spoon feed with out getting too techincal like you did...

great info, but MOST exhaust shops are not gonna have the BOLD things in your post that your mentioning.....with out the inside knowledge me and you have, he probably would walk away with a fair or bad job exhaust....

yes i agree it can be mig welded, but me and you know what to look for...and hands down, most shops have sub-par standards, and are not detail oriented like most 350z owners are...

not to offend any welders out there like you that know welding, but im more looking to spoon feed the OP to where he can ask and get a good job done...

-J