Cat backs
I just purchased a 2003 350z and I have an exhaust question, I'm a noob to sport cars, so if I sound retarded please have mercy on me haha.
I have a Nismo CAI and what I assume is Stillen exhaust. The previous owner told me it has Stillen exhaust and the tips are clearly Stillen. I'm not sure, but I assume the headers are OEM. I'm also assuming that means the muffler is still OEM. I'm also assuming the muffler is the can on the back where the two tips come out?
Anyways, I was thinking about pulling the cats out and throwing some Berks test pipes in there when I came across all this talk about catbacks. are cat backs just a way of decreasing air flow which would be too high with test pipes? does my muffler come with cat backs?
I guess what this comes down to is: I need to install catbacks at the same time as test pipes?
Thanks,
Nick
I have a Nismo CAI and what I assume is Stillen exhaust. The previous owner told me it has Stillen exhaust and the tips are clearly Stillen. I'm not sure, but I assume the headers are OEM. I'm also assuming that means the muffler is still OEM. I'm also assuming the muffler is the can on the back where the two tips come out?
Anyways, I was thinking about pulling the cats out and throwing some Berks test pipes in there when I came across all this talk about catbacks. are cat backs just a way of decreasing air flow which would be too high with test pipes? does my muffler come with cat backs?
I guess what this comes down to is: I need to install catbacks at the same time as test pipes?
Thanks,
Nick
- The headers being OEM does not make the muffler OEM
- You don't need to install a catback exhaust at the same time as the test pipes.
- Typically, an exhaust is: headers > cats > y pipe > midpipe > muffler (some exhausts have the midpipe/muffler swapped around). The test pipes simply replace the cats.
- The cat back is simply replacing everything from the cat back (meaning the y pipe, midpipe and muffler).
To answer your question: You don't need to install a catback at the same time as the test pipes. Assuming you have a Stillen exhaust (as you mentioned), your muffler isn't stock.
http://www.stillen.com/prodimages/re...rg_504350D.jpg
^ Picture for reference, notice the muffler towards the back of your car. Your cat back exhaust comes with a muffler, the cats are what typically restrict airflow.
- You don't need to install a catback exhaust at the same time as the test pipes.
- Typically, an exhaust is: headers > cats > y pipe > midpipe > muffler (some exhausts have the midpipe/muffler swapped around). The test pipes simply replace the cats.
- The cat back is simply replacing everything from the cat back (meaning the y pipe, midpipe and muffler).
To answer your question: You don't need to install a catback at the same time as the test pipes. Assuming you have a Stillen exhaust (as you mentioned), your muffler isn't stock.
http://www.stillen.com/prodimages/re...rg_504350D.jpg
^ Picture for reference, notice the muffler towards the back of your car. Your cat back exhaust comes with a muffler, the cats are what typically restrict airflow.
yea that looks like my exhaust, I just passed smog, I've got 2 years to **** with my **** =DD test pipes here I come,
I have another question , I have the problem where my oil pressure gauge reads 120 psi, but when I tap it, it goes back to working order.. which leads me to believe its the gauge not the oil pressure valve? any insight on this? and same thing happens with my RPM guage, it stick sometimes, but when I tap the console with my hand it goes back to working, what gives? seems like a gauge problem as well.
I have another question , I have the problem where my oil pressure gauge reads 120 psi, but when I tap it, it goes back to working order.. which leads me to believe its the gauge not the oil pressure valve? any insight on this? and same thing happens with my RPM guage, it stick sometimes, but when I tap the console with my hand it goes back to working, what gives? seems like a gauge problem as well.
With the oil pressure gauge, if when you tap it it starts working again then it's most likely the gauge itself. The oil pressure sending unit is known to go out, but that's located near your filter and it would cause your gauge to continuously be 120 regardless of whether you tap it.
Again, the RPM gauge is also most likely a mechanical issue unless you notice otherwise in performance/driving.
Again, the RPM gauge is also most likely a mechanical issue unless you notice otherwise in performance/driving.
OP, with Berk test pipes as a DD you may want to look into getting tuned, i've read alot of reviews where un-tuned test pipes cause a noticeable decrease in MPG and sometimes performace (to exclude Motordyne ART and any "CEL fixes")
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Thx for the input again. I haven't noticed any issues with the engine when the RPM gauge is stuck. it just sticks. I was thinking of getting an external RPM gauge, but I don't want to look like I'm trying to be a bad *** haha.
As for the test pipes, I'm now thinking of going to with the HFC. After doing some research, I don't like the resonating sound that comes with the test pipes and as sick suggested, it's my DD so HFC probably be a little smoother? I already have a stage 1 clutch which gets annoying sometimes going from light to light in the city.
As for the test pipes, I'm now thinking of going to with the HFC. After doing some research, I don't like the resonating sound that comes with the test pipes and as sick suggested, it's my DD so HFC probably be a little smoother? I already have a stage 1 clutch which gets annoying sometimes going from light to light in the city.
you can get resonated test pipes, like megan's, i have those, but i have a problem where my car exhaust flow is so much, that there's noise coming out of it, https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-question.html
and welcome to the forums!!!!
and welcome to the forums!!!!
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