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Bad clicking noise when take off and slow down

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #61  
bikinilust's Avatar
bikinilust
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From: socal
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Originally Posted by tonychu
im not under warranty and i was wondering is this something a ameuteur can do and do you guys think this can be a jaor problem if i ignore it?
Ive done this several times for some friends. Takes about an hour or so.
Heres what I do:
1. lift vehicle
2. remove rear wheels
3. remove cotter pin and huge center nut
4. remove exhaust components that may be in the way of removing the axles
5. I forget if the sway bar needs to be removed, but it will be obvious if it needs to go when removing the axles
6.. remove nuts and bolts that hold the axle to the axle stubs on the differential
7. remove axles [they may be a little tough to slide out, so put the nut back on the tip of the threaded part of the axle, then hammer the axle out with a dead-blow hammer. And PB Blaster helps too]
8. now clean the flange on the axle [flange that mates behind hub bearing] with brake cleaner and a scotch brite if needed
9. Place a generous amount of grease on the now cleaned flange
10. Now put everything back in the reverse order
11. use a new cotter pin

Remember to torque everything to torque specs

I believe that the 38 parts that the TSB is saying that needs to be replaced are the cotter pins, huge center axle nuts, and all the nuts, bolts, and washers that hold the axle to the axle stubs on the differential. I reuse all of these, minus the cotter pin which i replace, and haven't had any repercussions because of it.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #62  
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smokey350z
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From: San Diego
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So how much you guys out of warranty payin to get this fixed at the dealer?
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #63  
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CsabaH
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From: Ohio
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I got quote $99.95 for the fix, and that was just basically taking it apart and relubing it(as described by bikinilust). Supposedly that's the fix for the after warranty people.
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