Z seems to lose power after 5000 RPMs..?
07-19-2007, 06:58 PM
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Z seems to lose power after 5000 RPMs..?
Hi all,
Haven't been on in a while, but i've come across a nervewrecking problem with my car.
For the past 2 months I started to drive conservativley inorder to save gas, so i would rarely go past 4500 RPMs. Normally shift at 2500 RPMs.
Now, i was driving recently and decided to gun it, but I noticed once my car gets passed 5000 RPMS, and up into 6000, my car suddenly jerks, and feels like no more power is being given to it. You can feel the power stop. I'm not letting go of the gas, the power just stops coming. I dont know why. This normally happens in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent tried it in the higher gears.
Any feedback or solutions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Kourosh
Haven't been on in a while, but i've come across a nervewrecking problem with my car.
For the past 2 months I started to drive conservativley inorder to save gas, so i would rarely go past 4500 RPMs. Normally shift at 2500 RPMs.
Now, i was driving recently and decided to gun it, but I noticed once my car gets passed 5000 RPMS, and up into 6000, my car suddenly jerks, and feels like no more power is being given to it. You can feel the power stop. I'm not letting go of the gas, the power just stops coming. I dont know why. This normally happens in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent tried it in the higher gears.
Any feedback or solutions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Kourosh
07-20-2007, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kourosH
Hi all,
Haven't been on in a while, but i've come across a nervewrecking problem with my car.
For the past 2 months I started to drive conservativley inorder to save gas, so i would rarely go past 4500 RPMs. Normally shift at 2500 RPMs.
Now, i was driving recently and decided to gun it, but I noticed once my car gets passed 5000 RPMS, and up into 6000, my car suddenly jerks, and feels like no more power is being given to it. You can feel the power stop. I'm not letting go of the gas, the power just stops coming. I dont know why. This normally happens in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent tried it in the higher gears.
Any feedback or solutions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Kourosh
Haven't been on in a while, but i've come across a nervewrecking problem with my car.
For the past 2 months I started to drive conservativley inorder to save gas, so i would rarely go past 4500 RPMs. Normally shift at 2500 RPMs.
Now, i was driving recently and decided to gun it, but I noticed once my car gets passed 5000 RPMS, and up into 6000, my car suddenly jerks, and feels like no more power is being given to it. You can feel the power stop. I'm not letting go of the gas, the power just stops coming. I dont know why. This normally happens in 1st and 2nd gear. I havent tried it in the higher gears.
Any feedback or solutions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Kourosh
07-21-2007, 07:44 AM
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I'll have to test that out......thanks bugs.
To reset the ECU: does disconnecting the battery work?(like silverz said) Or do you have to pump the brakes? Or what?
To reset the ECU: does disconnecting the battery work?(like silverz said) Or do you have to pump the brakes? Or what?
07-21-2007, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by yoichi
Do any of you have led tails by any chance?? aftermarket tails or LED bulbs???
Cuz if you do, that can be a problem...
Cuz if you do, that can be a problem...
^^ really??
would like too know more about this...
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07-21-2007, 08:09 AM
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https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/265217-problem-cruise-set-car-sluggish.html
If your cruise control also doesn't work, then you have the same problem that i did and some people in this thread. I had led bulbs in the rear and as soon as i returned to stock, the car ran perfectly fine. it was a issue with the voltage. hope this helps
If your cruise control also doesn't work, then you have the same problem that i did and some people in this thread. I had led bulbs in the rear and as soon as i returned to stock, the car ran perfectly fine. it was a issue with the voltage. hope this helps
07-21-2007, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kourosH
I'll have to test that out......thanks bugs.
To reset the ECU: does disconnecting the battery work?(like silverz said) Or do you have to pump the brakes? Or what?
To reset the ECU: does disconnecting the battery work?(like silverz said) Or do you have to pump the brakes? Or what?
07-25-2007, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by yoichi
check if your cruise control is working
07-27-2007, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by yoichi
Trust me, change it out to stock. Those damn LED's are the problem!!!
08-06-2007, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by yoichi
Tell me how it goes and you better thank me!!! A six-pack will do
08-06-2007, 11:34 AM
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Interesting. I'd like to know what it is about the LED's that cause the problem. 
08-07-2007, 07:07 AM
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I'm having the same problem... and yes... I have LED tail lights. I won't accept "change back to stock" as a solution. We must find a solution... and I believe that solution is a series resistor. What size? Let's figure that out. If the stock LED tail lights work, maybe somebody with the stock LEDs can look for a series resistor in their lamp and measure the resistance with a multimeter? Does this sound feasible? Pictures would be nice, too.
I bought a set of LED turn signals for my '04 Eclipse Spyder GTS, and resistors were recommended... but only because the lights would flash rapidly, indicating that the bulb was burned out. As it happened... the car thought that the bulb was burned out because of the change in resistance/current/voltage associated with the LEDs, which have different electrical properties. From what I remember in school... incandescant bulbs are big resistors, and Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have a comparitively LOWER resistance. Hence the need for a series resistor to "simulate" the filament of the stock incandescent bulb.
Please, somebody help us find a solution. I heard mention of a resistor accessory that was being sold with LED tails somewhere... any more information about that? What size? What do they look like? If I'm going to install resistors, I want them to have a heatsink/environmental shield on them...
WHY DON'T THE LED TAIL LIGHT MANUFACTURES JUST INSTALL THESE RESISTORS AS PART OF THE LIGHT THAT THEY MAKE???
I bought a set of LED turn signals for my '04 Eclipse Spyder GTS, and resistors were recommended... but only because the lights would flash rapidly, indicating that the bulb was burned out. As it happened... the car thought that the bulb was burned out because of the change in resistance/current/voltage associated with the LEDs, which have different electrical properties. From what I remember in school... incandescant bulbs are big resistors, and Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) have a comparitively LOWER resistance. Hence the need for a series resistor to "simulate" the filament of the stock incandescent bulb.
Please, somebody help us find a solution. I heard mention of a resistor accessory that was being sold with LED tails somewhere... any more information about that? What size? What do they look like? If I'm going to install resistors, I want them to have a heatsink/environmental shield on them...
WHY DON'T THE LED TAIL LIGHT MANUFACTURES JUST INSTALL THESE RESISTORS AS PART OF THE LIGHT THAT THEY MAKE???