Just for information, do one of you had already replace the ECU/ECM of the car by a Nissan brand new one?

Because I think that this is the next step...

Anyway, another owner from belgium, with the same issue, follow another avenue that the local Nissan technician believe in... The ECU harness...

Other persons involve with this issue, don't hesitate to give your input.

 

No news from Tourinz and Nissan Techline ???

 

FastGreg,
Haven't replaced ECU as per your question. Only flashed it through AAM...

 

Hey boys, I start to draft an Excel sheet, enclosed a Word copy/paste, please complete !
Nickname.doc

 

I have a 07 that I picked up bran new in Feb of 07 i currently have 8000 miles on my car i don't drive it much and mine dose this rough idle until it warms up and then goes away and it only does it when it is cold out. never does it to me in the summer but i start the car and warm it up in the winter when the car is not driven and that is when i notice the rough idle

 

how to get ECU ID/number ? any way to get it without taking it out ?

 

Just check my ECU reference with Nissan Fast, mine: 23710-EV16A

Then as version "A", I assume that Nissan hasn't issued any update verision of the ECU... A "B" one, for eyemple...

Japanes one's: 23710-EV14A, then updatze EV14B and EV14D

So, no issue...

I will dismount it this w-e to see further details.

 

You can check with Nissan Fast Software or ask your dealer.

Anyway, give me your VIN car, and I will check for it ;-)

 

I just read this interesting thread: https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5059...d-battery.html regarding the ECU managing.

Does one of you, who well know UpRev, Osiris and other can check the following data in the ECU: Non-volatile EEPROM (external from the processor). This non volatile memory is used to store things like idle adjustments, ignition adjustments, learned idle air volume, VIN, and other static values that vary from vehicle to vehicle.

Then we can compare the value from an HR we work properly and ours...

Thanks guys !

 

Worksheet. Had to zip file since it was over the limit.

 

car vin is in list already

 

also any sputter guys looking to get a haltech ecm in the near future ?

 

ok Guys i have now 100% figured out the problem. Just got off the phone with Clark from JWT. he backed me up on it.

its the Cam Phasing. I unplugged my Exhaust cam solenoids in the front of the engine. there was a power loss and SES light, BUT absolutely no sputter when its cold. so it is the ECU programing Nissan tuned these cars from factory at the Jagged edge emissions wise. that's why they have so much Cam Over Lap at low RPM's to keep more exhaust gas in the combustion chamber. when the engine is cold the exhaust gasses have very low speed and its why it does that. when we start adding mods. (intakes exhausts) obviously low RPM exhausts gas is still slower Specially for the guys with Dual exhausts. and is why we experience the sputter even more.

the downfall to this is that by taking off the overlap in the lower RPM range we will loose torque when it warms up. so one of two things

A) Learn how to drive away from that RPM range when warming up

B) Re Tune to not sputter and loose that low RPM Torque

I am personally just going to deal with it since ive already learned how to stay away from those rpm's when cold.

 

Thanks for the update!

 

ok . . that sounds like a good argument . . but imho it doesn't explain why

a) New HR Zs dont sputter --> implying that it could be related to wear and tear (sensors)

b) Some stock Zs also sputter ( i know mine did with no mods) --> mods may not be the culprit

c) sputter happens when car reaches operating temp (not when its cold) --> maybe its something to do with the open loop - closed loop transition

more explaining please . .

 

we have members here that have cars stock or close to stock. that still sputter. My friends Nismo 08 sputters a little bit and its bone stock.

reason Nissan put so much over lap at the low rpm's is to help with exhaust gas recirculation and power. keeping the exhaust and intake valves open longer, helps with emissions and low end torque but it was mainly there for low end torque. just how they where building the rev up DE's trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of the engine they could and ended up getting oil consumption problems because of the shitty Piston rings. their fix was hand building engines and properly breaking them in. not a big deal. it was a more obvious fix that could not be ignored.

reason i think it comes up over time with our cars is not only wear and tear, but carbon build up as well. if you think about it, all the carbon that builds up on the Top of the pistons and Valves make hot spots where it builds up. with all the valve over lap at low RPM the cylinder pressure rises because of that and makes things worse. you can't rely on our stock temperature gauge to tell you when the car is at "operating temperature" our cars like to run at about 195-205* but i have noticed our stock gauge sits at "operating temperature" between 165* and have had it as hot as 215* at the track and the gauge is still in the same area. so what i think is going on is that the car has a static timing table from cold to hot. the variance is the enrichment scale.

colder temps car runs richer as it warms up it leans out to the "operating temps or sweet spot" then as cylinder temps go up (over heating) it starts to inject more fuel to keep cylinder temps down. (at least that is what i have noticed from all the fuel maps I have seen.) anyway Engine has the same Ignition Timing scale whether the car is cold or hot with the same over lap when the car is making the transition in the fuel enrichment scale as the car leans out and its not quite at operating temps yet. with low Cylinder temps and Cylinder pressure the fuel mixture ignites and does not contribute to the "power" output of the ignition, but a clean burn. Clark took a look at it on a smog machine when it sputters it has almost no effect on the emission output when its sputtering. this is very convincing that its due to the over lap on the exhaust cam allowing allot of the intake air to make its way out the exhaust cam and vice versa before the engine is up to operating temp. a normal missfire would cause the smog machine to go haywire and would show on a wide band as well.

I think the reason the G35's where not having this problem is because those cars where tuned not for power but for economy and drive ability. that is why i think G35 drivers with the HR have yet to experience this. on top of that the newer Z34 and V36 guys have VVEL computer which controls the cam phasing and VVEL of the engine allowing more inputs and outputs to control the cams in different situations so I think this allowed nissan to be able to control this sputtering problem and make more power obviously.

i had a conversation with Clark about it over the phone for almost an hour about this. that is why i tried the cam phase sensor. and sure enough it backed up the entire conversation and findings. im telling you if you want to try it out for yourself unplug the cam sensor. or take your car back to your tunner and have him take out 10* of cam over lap on the sputtering range. (5* intake 5* exhaust) and see it will get better or maybe go away entirely. but you will notice the power loss immediately

i am extremely tires and will proof read this in the morning lol good night guys

if you want a better read check out this article.
http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/camtruth.htm

this also Helps proove that X pipes, are better than Y pipes, and H pipes all day....

 

How much relevant informations Barbade Thanks a lot !

Please note that the belgian Nissan mechanic also take note that the car stop sputter when disconect the Exhaust canshaft sensor...

Anyway, as it seems to be an ECU issue.

Do you know precisely which data shold be modify in the ECU program ?

 

When I installed the Haltech EMS the car didn't sputter anymore, but thinking about it now in my Exhaust cam Phasing map all the cells are set to zero's


My car used to sputter most of the time even after driving it for more than 1-2 hours.

 

Cam phasing / overlap in all the sputtering RPM range, take out over lap. take your time and read my post prior to this one it is explained at the end.

 

my car sputters after every cold startup . . but would never sputter when fully warmed up . . (10 mins idle)


noob question again . . but as soon as you do that (unplug sensor), wouldnt the ECM just go to limp mode and just run in open loop ?