DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

So I didn't notice it till around the afternoon, it has been cold recently 19 to 35 degrees, anyway. I start my car and leave work and head to school. I'm sitting at the light, and my car is dropping RPM's sound rough...fluctuating, any ideas? It seems if I drive for a while and get a light it's not as bad...but only if I've been driving a while.

JonsilvZ

It might be your JWT popchrger.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

I think your right, I think I'm gonna pull it off...sigh...just bought the damn thing, lol

Corradoslc7

So what your saying is you just installed this pop charger and now your having idling issues? If so try cleaning the MAF, problaby just some oil residue on the MAF filament.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

Well I took it off and still had a wierd idling issue with start up, like the motor rev's in between 800 to 1500 rpm's I changed out the plugs, my spark plugs were nasty, and while I did need them I through a code for a misfire a few days back, the fluctuation is still there, what would I clean the MAF sensor with. Or, this is another question, this is the first winter I've owned the car, in the cold does the Z rev back and forth with intial start up to warm itself up?

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

Today the car was bucking around the 45 mph range in 5th gear, like a hesitation, then a rough bucking, but if I hit the accelerator I could make it go away, but I was cruising the RPM's weren't high or anything. Could this be related to the MAF and my rough idle on intial start up? My car isn't throwing any codes, this is driving me nuts...sigh...

Corradoslc7

Even though you removed the pop charger the oil is could still be on the MAF filament and be causing your problems. Here is a link of some good MAF cleaner http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Mass-Flow-.../dp/B000EGH57G. On a cold start up the rpm's should be higher than once the car is warmed up and idling, but the rpm's should not be fluctuating up and down.

The MAF could also be causing a bucking while driving either way if these problems have just started occuring after installing your pop charger you really should clean the MAF, even if just to cross it off the list of possibilities. Just spray the cleaner in the MAF housing and let it dry.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

Well I did that, lol...but earlier my car threw a code, a P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1

Now I'm not sure if the sensor is bad or the fact that I have a huge exhaust leak right after my test pipes because the exhaust is made out of stainless steel but the flanges weren't, maybe making the sensor freak out.

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

I had the same problem a few weeks back... before you start doing anything drastic, think back to when the problem first started. What are the list of mods you did from the most recent to the earliest. That way you can diagnose what the problem area is and start from there. You don't want to fix what's not broken or else new problems might arise.

For me, it was my oil catch can. One of the nuts fell off causing one side to leak therefore causing a rough idle. I wish I looked at that first before I started cleaning my MAF, Throttle Body, jacking up the car to check for leaks etc. The problem was "right under my nose".

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

The popcharger, lol..everything else was on the car when I got it, though the exhaust leak has gotten significantly worse as I've owned the car.

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

There's your answer. Don't bother cleaning the MAF, just get this fixed.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

My conundrum with this is, the O2 Sensor that is bad is before the test pipes so it shouldn't even be a problem...cause the exhaust leak is way after it, though, I'm gonna get the gasket and see where I can go from there.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

Fixed the leak, my exhaust sounds freakin awesome, the code is from the sensor before the test pipes, I'm gonna replace the O2 sensor and hope it makes it go away, if not something else is wrong.

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

Would an O2 sensor gone bad cause the car to drive like **** in the morning, on my way to work, it was bucking like crazy, it finally smoothed out after a while but it was like studdering when it drove.

DJMatrix1067

okay im going to suggest a different route. the first thing you need to do is reset your ecu. you have a number of different things going on here.

you said you already changed your spark plugs, and you have no fixed your exhaust leak. Strangely enough i had the same test pipes and had two exhaust leaks, the first sounds one was caused by the same thing as what you say, the second was a crack right in the middle of both of them (autox). I, too, had major 02 sensor problems and it was the same 02 sensor.

First thing first. follow the instructions at this link and reset your ecu. im wondering how much of this is caused by a funked up ecu. just reset it and drive the car as normal for 80-120 miles while the ecu systems come back online (02 sensors have to be driven for 80-120 miles before they become "ready") only then if you have a bad 02 sensor will the same code come up again.

secondly, your idle issue may be caused by a air delivery issue. check and make sure all of you intake connections are snug, and also check and make sure that your MAF is tight inside its housing. If everything is snug and secure, then i really think its a fuel delivery issue. When you changed the plugs on your Z im assuming you had to take off your intake. How was the throttle body and lower plenum. i know when i took mine off, they looked NASTY with sludge and gunk. a little carb cleaner went a long way in improving sound and performance. throttle body cleaner works well on the throttle body because it also naturally lubricates the joints. the be careful not to spray the throttle body in such a way that you move the plate butterfly valve (the little plate inside that opens and closes) it is a position sensor and is very sensitive.

Put everything back together and reset your ecu again.

if you still have issues, then im starting to think its a fuel injector. try getting some race gas 113 octane and running it through your tank. Commercially available fuel injector cleaner works well too. just be careful cause usually a **** load of smoke comes out when u use them.

hope that helps

DelayedZ

iTrader: (7)

I just had an epiphany...what if my dealer screwed up my car. A few weeks ago before I started having all these problems I had my car at the dealership getting a bunch of warranty work done. I was in California for a week, and when I came to pick up the car, my motor was knocking, they said it was because the oil was a quart low and the lifters no longer had oil, it went away after driving it. I flipped out on them cause when I dropped it off my motor wasn't knocking I was like WTF...anyway...just another random thought if the O2 sensor doesn't fix my problems.

Corradoslc7

Dude you are all over the palce. What did the dealer do to your car that you think they could have messed up?

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

i have smiliar problem, ( only time when i turnin engine on.
i think mine is just weather problem, too cold, make my Z freeeeze~!

i leave my car in garage everynight,, ( it's little warm then outside,), it's seemz fine,
but when i get off work at night ( leave my car outside about 9 hrs-10hrs.)

wow rough.......

and if i drive before my Engine get warm..wow sounds like i have few pop Charger under the my hood,,, crazy suckin air sound...

One Quick Z

iTrader: (8)

Did the new 02 sensor fix your problem?

VengefulHitman

I know this thread is 6 years old, but i didnt want to start a new topic and get yelled at by the mods. i've been looking for solutions the past few weeks and with not much luck, this thread has been the closest i could get so far.

alright here is the situation. the SES light came up a few weeks ago and the code read P0132 (typically a faulty passenger side upstream O2 sensor). about a day after the code came up the car started running rough when i was accelerating.it runs fine if its a cold start, but as soon as i shut the car off after warming up and turning it back on it feels rough when i accelerate.

i had the sensor replaced by the dealership (extended warranty covered the parts and labor) within the same week of the sensor going bad. no SES code, but the car still does the same thing. called my tuner and they said that disconnecting the battery might help. so I tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and helped for a few days then it starts running rough again.

have any of you had the same problem? i'd like to avoid driving 2+ hours to the tuner for a dyno session if i can avoid it.

probably going to try replacing the other O2 sensor, spark plugs, MAF sensor (or at least cleaning it), and run some injector cleaner as one of the members has already stated previously as a potential solution to address the SES code.

just really curious if any of you have had the same issue come up. any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!