Clutch
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My Z is an 04, and I've had it for about 6 months. When I first got the clutch was very strong and it took me a while to get used to. I now expect it to grab pretty hard at the engagement point but lately (past few weeks) I noticed it seemed weaker/smoother
So all of a sudden yesterday I got in it and it wasn't driving well at all. I was having trouble taking off, it didn't seem to grab at all, and my gas mileage plummeted to 18.2 mpg. The car seemed slow and shitty yesterday and it started to smell like ***, kind of liked burned e-brake when I got out. Now today it's 1000x worse and I literally could not move one foot out of the driveway.
So I'm pretty sure it's the clutch, but I haven't talked to a mechanic yet
So I have a few questions...
Do you think I was single-handedly responsible for burning up the clutch, considering it was fine six months ago, or is this just a culmination of continual wear?
I've been told that while I'm at it I should replace the clutch with an aftermarket one. Will a better aftermarket clutch last longer, or will its strength just make wear quicker?
So all of a sudden yesterday I got in it and it wasn't driving well at all. I was having trouble taking off, it didn't seem to grab at all, and my gas mileage plummeted to 18.2 mpg. The car seemed slow and shitty yesterday and it started to smell like ***, kind of liked burned e-brake when I got out. Now today it's 1000x worse and I literally could not move one foot out of the driveway.
So I'm pretty sure it's the clutch, but I haven't talked to a mechanic yet
So I have a few questions...
Do you think I was single-handedly responsible for burning up the clutch, considering it was fine six months ago, or is this just a culmination of continual wear?
I've been told that while I'm at it I should replace the clutch with an aftermarket one. Will a better aftermarket clutch last longer, or will its strength just make wear quicker?
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hmm you may wanna make sure when you push in the clutch pedal that it is disengaging the clutch all the way. 2nd. like they say you get what you pay for. So it has the stock clutch currently correct?
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I think for a while I was pushing the clutch in poorly and I thought the shifter was too rough until I finally realized I wasn't pushing the pedal in all the way. I started sitting closer, with the wheel tilted up
I guess I'll be paying for that
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60k and admittance of potential bad driving habits definitely possible time for a new clutch, by your diagnosis of symptoms I'd say the exact same thing.. slipping.
If you want a stiffer feel and better grab, shift from stock.
If you want a stiffer feel and better grab, shift from stock.
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Yeah
I know you get what you pay for but I also know that performance and reliability can be a major trade-off
Of course it depends on how you drive but in you guys' exp., which has a longer life?
I know you get what you pay for but I also know that performance and reliability can be a major trade-off
Of course it depends on how you drive but in you guys' exp., which has a longer life?
#11
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Puck style kits will have a shorter life span in general, Much less material on these kits due to the puck design, Advantages are quick shifts due to the lighter disk and a more direct feel.
Full face kits "stock style" last longer than pucks because they have much more material on the disk.
Smooth takes offs, Easy to drive, more forgiving.
SBC has many different clutch materials to choose from to fit just about anyone's wants and needs.
Organic (stock material) all thou there are many grades of Organic material overall this is a long wearing material with smooth stock like performance. Better, higher end organic material will last longer and perform better. DXD kits use only the best organic clutch materials.
Kevlar
DXD "TZ" kit
Kevlar is a great material for street use. Last 2-3 times longer than Organic, Holds more TQ and is super easy on its mating surfaces (flywheel) making it one of the longest lasting material used for clutches. Ultra smooth also, No chatter.
Ceramic, This material is mainly used on Puck style kits, Very aggressive in nature, great for drag racing, abuser friendly. Longevity is not its strong point
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Feramic (no not Ceramic)
This material is used in both the DXD street full face kits and in the puck style kits. OFE, FE street kits and DXD-F (6 puck)
A bit more aggressive than organic and kevlar,
Last much longer than Organic, Kevlar or Ceramic, Drives smoother, Holds tons of TQ.
The full face street version "FE" of this kit will last a VERY VERY long time.
I ran this kit for over 2 years, Many hard miles at over 400WHP, Many trips down the 1/4 (at least 20 runs on slicks, not recommended on street kits
![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Here are some pics of it after A LOT of abuse.
I measured the disk before install at .308"
If you can see the reading on the mics, The lowest I could get anywhere was .306"
![](http://www.photodump.org/stored15/fediskware2.jpg)
Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; 01-18-2010 at 03:45 PM.
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Ok, I'm seriously considering your
"South Bend DXD TZ Clutch Kit" w/ kevlar
that was extremely helpful info, pretty much covered every base I was wondering about
If the mechanic tells me I need a new flywheel though I think I'll get a JWT combo
"South Bend DXD TZ Clutch Kit" w/ kevlar
that was extremely helpful info, pretty much covered every base I was wondering about
If the mechanic tells me I need a new flywheel though I think I'll get a JWT combo
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