OK...so I do understand that it is fairly common for the Z (in this case..mine being a 2005 with 47K miles on it) to develop door rattles.

The rattle occurs on mine at the "X".

Applying knee pressure near the "X" to the door will stop it during drive time.

Pushing on the passenger door near the "X" will stop it during drive time.

I am going to remove the door panel soon to take a look around..

QUESTION:
Can someone point me in the right direction as far as WHAT EXACTLY may be loose that needs tightening BEFORE I remove the door panels.

Thanks!!

 

Does it rattle while you have the door handle pulled on the inside?

 

Take the door panels off. Take out the styrefoam pieces out (theyre semi-glued on) then put the door panels back on. Problem solved. Worked for me.

 

Are you suggesting that I try to pull door handle maybe half way to create tension internally on mechanism to see if it stops the rattle??

I have not tried that yet..

 

Thread moved to the correct forum.

Take it from me, pulling apart panels to get a rattles will often create more rattles than you originally started with.....unless you have expierence with removing panels

Especially with the doors since they have so many clips.

 

I just finished taking my door apart to fix the window motor this weekend. Almost exactly at that spot is a plastic clip that holds a bowden cable that goes into the motor. Perhaps that cable is rattling around and has come loose from the clip. After putting mine back together, I have no rattles whatsoever.

NOTE - the bowden cable is behind a metal panel which is subsequently behind the decorative door panel. To get to it, you would have to disassemble the door to the point of removing the motor. If you roll the window down and shine a flashlight down the slot that the window slides through, you might be able to see if the cable is loose.

 

I took mine apart today and almost got it fixed. on really poorly mastered songs, with retardedly loud bass, it still rattles. I think i need to add more foam strip layers where the top foam would make contact. I noticed i dont have to push as much to make it go away. There was a limit to what I could do because an audiodouche stripped out the mounts that the bolts under the window and mirror buttons screw into. Below is what I did to try and fix it with it some insulation tape from lowes (or home depot). I also used electrical tape to try and secure loose cables and connectors.




After that I tried to fix the strange buzz coming from the center console near the volt meter. Failed there.

 

Dynamat that bad boy.