I have one valve that was stuck open on a engine i recently bought from a boosted owner. The valve isnt bent from what i see just by looking at it still inside the head, however tomorow ill be it apart. My question is, what causes a valve to get stuck? and any special tools required to be able to remove the valve guide if need be or does it just hammer out. Lastly, If i buy new valves for the heads, can i drop them in as is or is it absolutely 100% neccessary to take it to a shop for a valve job. This project is for vq s13 swap so not planning on pushing 500whp lol. Just engine reliability at constant high rpm.

EDIT: and one last thing. after all said and done, do i need to resurface the deck and head prior to reassembly. Or is slapping on acceptable.

 

More information needed

Are the heads off or on the block ?
Are the cams still in the head ?

Unless you have the equipment needed to measure the guide, heat up the cylinder head, press in the guide & then ream to size, this is a job for experts

Lastly, It is perfectly acceptable to slap on the heads to the block without resurfacing providing both surfaces are perfectly flat & free of any imperfections.
Do you have the ability or skill needed to check this out ?

 

Machine shop will do valve guides, they will also remove the stuck valve for you. If they stick , they are probably bent.

 

The valve is probably bent, that's why it's stuck open. Wedged in the guide.

Do not hammer on a valve guide. They are soft and will be destroyed. Have it pressed in and out properly, if you can't do it yourself (doesn't sound like it)

You need to mate the valves to the seats. You can do this yourself if they are very close already, with lapping compound, valve lapping handles and a little paitence. Cleanliness is very important with that method though, so you must be careful. Again, sounds like you would be better going to a shop.

Your ideas are somewhat off, a high-rpm motor places more demand on the valvetrain than a high powered setup. I can use boost to make 700hp at 7000 rpms, with less valvetrain stress than an 8500 rpm N/A motor that only makes 350.

 

Also, Resurface/decking the head is only needed if they are warped. If they were on a good running engine that did not overheat, check them for straightness and re-use as-is.

 

^id redeck it anyways. just helped my buddy w/ a grand am. did his headgasket and he had a bent valve. resurface it, trust me.

 

If the surfaces are truly flat, what's the point?

 

Well hopefully the guide is still good cuz i dont wanna spend any money on this. Ill just throw a new valve in and then do the liquid leak test. I know how to check straightness too. The only part i can't do is what i dont have tools for. You guys made me sound like an idiot haha. Ive built vq and ka engines before, just never messed around with a valve guide.

 

Ok, so I took the valve out today and surprisingly the valve is not bent, its actually straight as a ruler. The only reason the valve kept getting stuck open was cuz of the bucket not being able to move. I wasnt able to get the bucket out at first so i had to cut it with a dremel and then pry it up. Ive never seen a bucket get jammed so i thought maybe its a bad bucket but even a good bucket wont go back into that hole. I tried sanding with a 220 grit for a little bit to get ride of any possible burrs but it seems as though the hole might be warped. Is that even possible. oh well, time to get a new head.