shifter shakes between 75-80mph then slowly starts dying out!
My car starts to shake between 75-80mph goes away when I take my foot of the gas. Here's whats diffrent about my car: So I bought new wheels for my car rohana rc10's with new run flat streched tires 20X9 +40 and a 25mm hub centric spacer in the front and 20x11 +15 in the back no spacer btw they were all balanced at a reputable shop. After I installed them I went to the dealer for the slave cylinder recall. The recall was preformed and after I got my car back the gear box didnt smothly go into 5th and 6th gear. I took the car back to the dealer and then the dealer said the shifter assembly was installed improperly and I get a call the next day saying my cars ready, so I went to go pick it up now, when I drive I hear a buzzing sound plus my shifter shakes. Then I took it back explained my problems and then they said it wasn't tightend down properlly . So the next morning they call so i can pick up my car while driving home i notice my car shifter still shakes.Then they opend up the transmission and say my drive shaft was rusted so they installed a used dive shaft that was laying around at the dealer to see if it solved the problem but it still didn't. finally they installed a new one in there and it still didnt solve the problem can anyone tell me whats going on? i asked the dealer to check the fluids, mounts bearings and he says everything looks fine i do think i need an alinement can that be the issue?
hopefully you guys understand what i wrote lol. thanks in advance!
hopefully you guys understand what i wrote lol. thanks in advance!
My car does that, kind of a driveline vibration felt through the shifter that builds and drops off cyclical while at high speed, 80+mph. I can't say for sure when I first noticed it, but it's present on either of my sets of wheels so it's not a tire/rim issue. My car has an aftermarket clutch though so I've always blamed it on that. My car has had the transmission replaced by nissan once, along with the left rear wheel hub. If an axle or driveshaft was not clocked the same when it went back in, it could do the same type of thing by changing the balance.
its due to removing your driveshaft and reinstalling new one.
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
its due to removing your driveshaft and reinstalling new one.
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
its due to removing your driveshaft and reinstalling new one.
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
Now first time they did work on your car/shifter they removed the driveshaft and did not install it back at the exact same position they removed it. OEM driveshaft is harmonically balances as a unit. there should be a yellow or white line in your rear were the driveshaft bolts in (4bolts) to make sure its lined up.
My intuition is that what caused original shaking. when they replaced your shaft. now any shaft not oem on car is balanced on itself, hence reduced vibration. but you may hit a certain rpm/hertz that will cause vibration due to the whole assembly not being balanced
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The driveshaft can't rust its a carbon fiber reinforced composite unit...So I'm thinking the dealer screwed you...unless its something else
Last edited by bxd164; Apr 23, 2013 at 11:25 AM.
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