Extreme power loss, rough idle. Help!
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Extreme power loss, rough idle. Help!
I drive an 03 350z Touring, and a few days ago it did a small jerk while cruising on the highway, I figured it was because of the -2 degree weather. No other symptoms until yesterday driving to work it acted completely bogged down when taking off. Had trouble just revving it up to 3k to get going. Then it would straighten out for awhile, and then back to being sputtery. At times it almost seemed jumpy. At the stop light the idle would fluctuate, then rev up and normalize. The SES came on, but kept saying rear bank 2 02 sensor, as I have test pipes. Only mods are the test pipes, aem cai, and catback exhaust. I have no idea what's going on! Please help a brotha :/
#5
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Ethan,
You need to get the codes, but I’ll bet (I’m very certain) you need to replace your crankshaft and/or camshaft sensors. If your 2003 Z has more than 80K miles, it’s for sure that you need to replace some sensors. I recommend replacing both banks of both sensors. That saves $$’s later on avoiding a piecemeal repair.
You might throw a code for the O2 sensor, but wait on this until you replace the other sensors (which might fix the O2 code).
Your TPS and Throttle Body are probably OK. It’s possible to test the TPS with a multimeter. If the TPS tests as faulty, you should attempt adjusting it. If you cannot adjust the TPS, you need to replace the entire Throttle Body.
--Spike
You need to get the codes, but I’ll bet (I’m very certain) you need to replace your crankshaft and/or camshaft sensors. If your 2003 Z has more than 80K miles, it’s for sure that you need to replace some sensors. I recommend replacing both banks of both sensors. That saves $$’s later on avoiding a piecemeal repair.
You might throw a code for the O2 sensor, but wait on this until you replace the other sensors (which might fix the O2 code).
Your TPS and Throttle Body are probably OK. It’s possible to test the TPS with a multimeter. If the TPS tests as faulty, you should attempt adjusting it. If you cannot adjust the TPS, you need to replace the entire Throttle Body.
--Spike
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As of now it's sitting at only a little over 43k miles, I changed the plugs, and cleaned the MAF sensor thoroughly. Took it for a short drive and it seemed good, the drive to work and back on Monday should tell for sure I appreciate all of you helping though! If this isn't solved the camshaft sensors are next on my list.
#7
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So you didn't try a little dry gas? That would be my first guess on a -2° day.
You B2-S2 code is obviously due to the lack of catalytic converters, since the downstream sensors' primary function is to compare readings before and after the cats.
You'd be a fool not to add some dry gas and eliminate that possibility all together.
You B2-S2 code is obviously due to the lack of catalytic converters, since the downstream sensors' primary function is to compare readings before and after the cats.
You'd be a fool not to add some dry gas and eliminate that possibility all together.
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#8
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EthanF is no fool (as you suggest) for not trying “dry gas.”
Actually, Ethan has already solved the problem, and the fix never required your “dry gas.” advice.
So you didn't try a little dry gas? That would be my first guess on a -2° day. You B2-S2 code is obviously due to the lack of catalytic converters, since the downstream sensors' primary function is to compare readings before and after the cats.
You'd be a fool not to add some dry gas and eliminate that possibility all together.
You'd be a fool not to add some dry gas and eliminate that possibility all together.
As of now it's sitting at only a little over 43k miles, I changed the plugs, and cleaned the MAF sensor thoroughly. Took it for a short drive and it seemed good, the drive to work and back on Monday should tell for sure I appreciate all of you helping though! If this isn't solved the camshaft sensors are next on my list.
#9
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What was the fix? Haven't heard for sure yet have we?
Last edited by myfirstzcar; 12-29-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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You guys....plz dnt fight! Anyways, I've driven about 130 miles since the last post and it seem to be running good!!! Still have the stupid SES light form that darn 02 sensor though haha, even after 2 resets. I wonder if dry gas might not be a bad idea anyways just in case there is a little condensation?
#13
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^^ We are not fighting... we are debating, and we are presenting different ideas/solutions/answers. It's all in fun and what makes these forums interesting.
It would be boring if everyone was super-polite and there was no controversy whatsoever.
--Spike
It would be boring if everyone was super-polite and there was no controversy whatsoever.
--Spike
#14
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Spike, that is the smartest thing you've said since I came back here, I have to agree with you
Again with the dry gas, what have you got to lose? A bottle of iso-heet is like 2 bucks. If it were me, I would have to know that possibility is ruled out. I've had cars freeze up before and it's not fun. They usually do it when they get below half a tank in super cold weather.
Again with the dry gas, what have you got to lose? A bottle of iso-heet is like 2 bucks. If it were me, I would have to know that possibility is ruled out. I've had cars freeze up before and it's not fun. They usually do it when they get below half a tank in super cold weather.
#16
I had a funny idle in my g and I cleaned the throttle body and it was good. I just put a spacer in my z and cleaned the tb just cause. The z was way dirtier with way less miles and wasn't giving any idle probs. anyways it's clean now. Tb gasket is 5$, sometimes it's cheap fixes that we overlook. Clean engine= happy engine
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Well poop on my chest, the problem has returned! Again for a split second while accelerating in 3rd it seemed to have trouble until it got above 3k rpms. And yet again, the weather was about -3 below zero. Next step is dry gas, and cleaning the throttle body! I'm going to attempt doing that without removing it as I'm worried about damaging something hahah. I really hope this thread ends in me with a fixed car, and a solution for someone to fix theirs in the future :P
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On a side note: this is the first winter this car has ever been driven in the 11 years of it's existence, and I do have 17 inch winter wheels in place of the stock 18's. I don't suppose this could be messing with the VDC?
#19
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If you have vdc, the wheel and tire size doesn't really matter. What does matter is the diameter difference. They can be the same size, or "square", but they can't be more than about 3/4" different from front to back.
I'm sure someone has the exact difference in circumference all figured out somewhere.
EDIT, make sure your throttle body hasn't had a coolant bypass done to it.
I'm sure someone has the exact difference in circumference all figured out somewhere.
EDIT, make sure your throttle body hasn't had a coolant bypass done to it.
Last edited by myfirstzcar; 01-02-2014 at 12:02 PM.