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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 02:42 PM
  #21  
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From: jblm wa
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
At least stock vq's aren't that expensive now a days. Might be able to find a shortblock, or just rebuild yours as well. Really is a pitty you can't use DE heads on an HR block, that would be great.
I'm looking to go better anyway, so I'm going with a mvp motorsports stage 3 long block as the replacement.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by che69velle
I'm looking to go better anyway, so I'm going with a mvp motorsports stage 3 long block as the replacement.
LOL I don't speak NFS... and don't know what packages MVP offers for the Z.

Is that a sleeved, stroked setup or something?
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 04:21 PM
  #23  
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From: jblm wa
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Originally Posted by Resmarted
LOL I don't speak NFS... and don't know what packages MVP offers for the Z.

Is that a sleeved, stroked setup or something?
http://sohomotorsports.com/product/s...ock-stage-two/

http://www.importpartspro.com/st3vqloblni3.html

Not mvp sorry, it is as above.
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 06:36 PM
  #24  
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I wouldn't sleeve the block personally.

My goals (on a race gas tune) were set up everything for 1k @ the crank. I didn't sleeve. I don't think it's really necessary... Depending on which shop you ask, they'll say different things.

SP when I talked to them years ago claimed the stock sleeves push water (never heard of it from anyone but them) past 600whp, Dynosty has setup a few cars to that ~1000hp crank level on stock sleeves on a few cars, forged and GTM are shizah.... Mazworx made 1200whp I think on a sleeved and stroked setup...

In my opinion, for that power, all you really need are l19's to 90+lbs, a good HG, cams, crank girdle, and good rods... (aside from obvious stuff like proper clearances, pistons, main studs etc) Rod's are the only thing I wish I had upgraded (better than my eagles), but seeing as the car won't frequent those race gas numbers it's really not a big deal.

The only reason I bring it up is because sleeves are pretty pricey, and a couple of cars in the past have had sleeve dropping issues. That being said, if the machine shop installs them correctly there really should be no issue... Sleeves usually are about another 3-4 grand to add on.... And I don't really know if they're necessary for most builds. Your car, your call, but just food for thought.

Last edited by Resmarted; Jan 8, 2015 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #25  
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Not getting the sleeves I'm only 548rwhp on mild motor, I want this worked motor and going to go for 20lbs on the twin turbos I have so 650ish is my goal. I do daily drive the car on 92 octane and a bottle of octane booster per tank. I don't want to run e85 cause its not available everywhere.
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 02:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by che69velle
Not getting the sleeves I'm only 548rwhp on mild motor, I want this worked motor and going to go for 20lbs on the twin turbos I have so 650ish is my goal. I do daily drive the car on 92 octane and a bottle of octane booster per tank. I don't want to run e85 cause its not available everywhere.
Yeah my goal is 600whp on pump and meth or more ofc.

Just be careful what injectors you get. ID2000's for example don't work with MTBE fuels. The only worth while octane booster is Torco Accelerator. That stuff is MMT, I don't really know what else it has in it... But it's possible that it might eat seals... At least I won't be running it through my 1400$ injectors lol. I think ID2000's are some of the only ones with that kind of seal, but just keep an eye on it.

I have a direct port meth kit pretty much setup on my car, I'd recommend that over octane boosters... For a while I was looking at doing 50/50 water meth+torco; as the steam would help keep the plugs clean/valves etc. Who knows, if I can get confirmation torco wont hurt the ID2000's I might do it, but I'd be much more inclined to get a flex fuel sensor and mix in some 'ethanol' in my tank seeing as everything can handle it (would need a tune for it). I've got a few gremlins to sort out before all that though lol.

But, all that noise aside, if I were you, I'd just keep driving that thing till it pops. And if it doesn't pop just leave it.

Builds take way longer than everyone expects. I thought mine would be 9-15 months tops, and I'm going on probably 3 and a half years.
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