Codenamecody

I just finished replacing the clutch with a JWT clutch/ flywheel combo kit and the clutch is not disengaging. The pedal feels real soft, like its not pushing on the pressure plate at all. Not sure what the issue is, I thought I installed everything correctly (obviously or I wouldn't have put it all back together), so I'm not sure what to think. My fear is that I put the throwout bearing on the wrong side of the lever or something. Is this even possible? Can anyone weigh in on this?

Thanks,
-Cody

Codenamecody

Here's some pictures of the slave cylinder. Does this look wrong? The clutch is not being pressed.

Codenamecody

I pulled the slave cylinder and the boot off and took some pictures to get a view of what is going on:

Codenamecody

Alright I think I know what I did wrong. I put the fork for the throwout bearing on the wrong side of the carrier so its not getting enough throw to disengage the clutch. Dammit!!!

Codenamecody

nevermind. I was able to get this picture by popping the lever off the ball pivot and moving the bearing all the way to the pressure plate. I cant see the carrier behind the lever. So ??? HELP!!!!

Codenamecody

I took a video showing the slave cylinder going in and out as I push the clutch:

winchman

This parts diagram shows how the parts are supposed to be arranged.


It's hard to imagine you could have gotten that wrong, so I'm thinking there's some air in the master cylinder/slave system.

Syner

sounds like air in the system to me

supercheap007

iTrader: (1)

I remember when I got my clutch and flywheel replaced the mechanics had some issues bleeding all the air out of the system. They ended up having to use a new slave cylinder and then it worked out fine.

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

When I recently bled my clutch system, I used the slave cylinder itself to bleed the system.

Take off the slave cylinder. Allow the spring to push the piston out. Open the bleeder valve and push the piston back in. Close bleeder valve. Repeat, checking clutch fluid level often. Compress slave cylinder one last time with the bleeder valve closed, reinstall slave cylinder.

Codenamecody

I contacted the supplier and the manufacturer of the clutch kit and they both told me to bleed the system also. I'm having trouble doing it, the pedal doesn't even return the the highest position anymore. I'll try the slave cylinder trick.

Codenamecody

Bled the system with the slave cylinder and now it is back to where I started. The pedal feels real soft and the clutch isn't disengaging. Can anyone tell me if the slave cylinder looks like it is making its full extent of travel from the video?
If its not air in the system, the only thing I can think of is that there is something screwed up with the throwout bearing...

Codenamecody

This is the clutch pedal fully pressed. It seems like the clutch should be disengaged at this point? Also, I checked the pedal free play and pedal height; they are both within spec.

winchman

Is it possible that the new clutch requires the long pivot ball instead of the short one you've got?

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

I hope you used both copper seals and didn't over-tighten the banjo bolt for the clutch line (it's a pain to replace)!

A fully-flushed clutch line should have 2-3 "max-to-min" reservoir fills to fully bleed the line.

Codenamecody

I didn't replace the clutch line.
After I started bleeding with the slave cylinder, I think I went through a good amount more fluid than that.
Kyle at import parts pro advised that I try bleeding again, so I will do it. I hope that this is the issue and I am just not doing this right.

I want to point out that I have reached out to Import Parts Pro and Jim Wolf Technologies and so far, both companies have been helpful and prompt in responding to my questions. (not to mention you folks)

Codenamecody

I confirmed with Import Parts Pro that the short one is the correct one.

Codenamecody

I checked the throw of the slave cylinder and it was .63 inches, that is within spec. That means the hydaulic system is working okay so I pulled the transmission. It only took me about an hour. Here some pictures of it pulled apart:

Codenamecody

I just noticed that the new throwout bearing is noticeably taller than the original. Could this be my issue? I don't know if it would change it that much but I know the mechanical advantage of the lever is going to be greatest when everything is parallel. What do you guys think?

Codenamecody

I found the issue. I put the clutch disc on backwards. As you can see the clutch was rubbing on the flywheel and made a nice little groove, but I don't think it should affect the functionality at all. I cleaned it up with some sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad. The steel of the clutch disc was hardly affected at all. Now all I have to do is bolt everything together and I'm good!

I see now how this was giving my my symptoms, the inner pads were not engaging the flywheel so the pressure plate was already in its disengaged position. This didn't matter because the metal on metal was providing the contact from the clutch disc to the flywheel.