Synchro/clutch work - do other items?
So after an oil change (Motul) and trackday my 5th gear has started the dreaded grinding, even though I didn’t use 5th on the track, but I’ve read it’s a common failure. In the oil change we did see some metal so I was already a little concerned. The car only has 21.5k miles so I was pretty surprised, but I don’t know how the PO drove it, or if its even his fault. Heck, might be my fault.
Anyway, trying to plan ahead on the parts for a trip I have in September to the states, want to get everything so I don’t have to import, which is insanely expensive. It looks like for the 5th gear synchro one must/should upgrade to the revised input shaft and baulk gear. Can only find it at conceptZ $350. Do people generally recommend doing ALL of the synchros?? That’s starts adding up $.
Also with the box down I guess I better do the clutch, right? Or do you think it’s such low miles that it’s not even necessary? I’m not doing 1/4 mile runs and constant burn outs, but I know it’s a rule of thumb. Other question, if you think yes on the clutch, I’m basically stock, I mean it has bolts ons, tuned, dyno etc., but just a good Exedy or OEM clutch, or step up to stage 1? I’ve researched some of this, but most articles just talk specifically about the synchro work and don’t really mention other parts.
I’ll be taking it to a race shop that did other work to the car previously and they quoted $500, which is way different than there I know, different economy.
Appreciate any input.
Anyway, trying to plan ahead on the parts for a trip I have in September to the states, want to get everything so I don’t have to import, which is insanely expensive. It looks like for the 5th gear synchro one must/should upgrade to the revised input shaft and baulk gear. Can only find it at conceptZ $350. Do people generally recommend doing ALL of the synchros?? That’s starts adding up $.
Also with the box down I guess I better do the clutch, right? Or do you think it’s such low miles that it’s not even necessary? I’m not doing 1/4 mile runs and constant burn outs, but I know it’s a rule of thumb. Other question, if you think yes on the clutch, I’m basically stock, I mean it has bolts ons, tuned, dyno etc., but just a good Exedy or OEM clutch, or step up to stage 1? I’ve researched some of this, but most articles just talk specifically about the synchro work and don’t really mention other parts.
I’ll be taking it to a race shop that did other work to the car previously and they quoted $500, which is way different than there I know, different economy.
Appreciate any input.
A brand new CD009 (or even later, but the same CD00A) transmission will cost you $1600. You do not want to attempt any repairs on your "old" transmission. You probably do not need to replace the clutch assembly yet.
Hi Spike, I remember you from posts in the past, thanks for the quick reply. I did consider the new unit, but by the time it gets here with state side shipping, intl. freight, handling fees, taxes, etc it will be close to $2500. The race shop I mentioned above imported one for a race car recently. There would be less labor of course but still pretty pricey compared to the $900 or so synchro replacement. However, I imagine you might want to say that the “old” tranny isn’t worth it? That’s something to heavily consider I guess. Makes me question my ownership of the car now too.
Last edited by Wet feet; Jul 27, 2019 at 07:23 PM.
The CD00A transmission will shift more smoothly and has a flawless synchromesh. I was surprised at the difference. I am also surprised at the price difference you must pay (about $900.00), although the CD009 transmission cost around $2,000 not long ago.
Last edited by Spike100; Jul 28, 2019 at 12:44 PM.
I would try and find a junkyard CD009. They typically go for around 600 bucks or so, though this depends on mileage. Just be sure to use GL4 fluid. I wonder if the PO used GL5, since that's fairly low miles to suddenly develop that grind. What year's your z?
Couple useful links https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload...sion_Guide.pdf
This is the trans fluid I use, upgrading to synthetic minimized the fifth gear grind on my '03. https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...85-p-4770.html
Couple useful links https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload...sion_Guide.pdf
This is the trans fluid I use, upgrading to synthetic minimized the fifth gear grind on my '03. https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...85-p-4770.html
I would try and find a junkyard CD009. They typically go for around 600 bucks or so, though this depends on mileage. Just be sure to use GL4 fluid. I wonder if the PO used GL5, since that's fairly low miles to suddenly develop that grind. What year's your z?
Couple useful links https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload...sion_Guide.pdf
This is the trans fluid I use, upgrading to synthetic minimized the fifth gear grind on my '03. https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...85-p-4770.html
Couple useful links https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload...sion_Guide.pdf
This is the trans fluid I use, upgrading to synthetic minimized the fifth gear grind on my '03. https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...85-p-4770.html

That’s very interesting about how nice the 00A is. I quickly looked at eBay this weekend and saw plenty of 009, some low mileage, but no 00A.
Anyway, I guess the consensus is do not repair mine. I’ll have to research what is needed to bolt up a 00A. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by Wet feet; Aug 9, 2019 at 05:27 AM. Reason: Grammar
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I wouldn't even bother. You don't hit 5th gear in 1/4 mile and will only get grind from not rpm matching.
My 3rd gear has been grinding since 2011 with hard shifts and nothing has changed and I've never changed the fluid that was in the transmission, so I'm not even sure how old it is.
My 3rd gear has been grinding since 2011 with hard shifts and nothing has changed and I've never changed the fluid that was in the transmission, so I'm not even sure how old it is.
I wouldn't even bother. You don't hit 5th gear in 1/4 mile and will only get grind from not rpm matching.
My 3rd gear has been grinding since 2011 with hard shifts and nothing has changed and I've never changed the fluid that was in the transmission, so I'm not even sure how old it is.
My 3rd gear has been grinding since 2011 with hard shifts and nothing has changed and I've never changed the fluid that was in the transmission, so I'm not even sure how old it is.
I have been going from 4th to 6th lately so that’s not too bad, 3rd would seem more of a nuisance to skip.
This is all really a pitty on a car that is otherwise near mint. I paid for mint, and have dropped some good cash into it, care for it like you wouldn’t believe, and now this. Kind of disheartening.
I wouldn't change my tranny until it breaks. I need to install a new clutch soon(slips from too much boost) and I am still not going to swap the transmission out even though I'm doing the work to take it out. I just can't justify paying $1000 extra for a $6000 car to stop a grind that only happens when racing on the track
Daily driving I will wait for revs to come down and match rpm(no grind). For the 1/4 mile I will shift fast and just deal with the small grind. Hasn't gotten any worse and I've done it hundreds of times I would say. I never skip gears on the Z.
I wouldn't change my tranny until it breaks. I need to install a new clutch soon(slips from too much boost) and I am still not going to swap the transmission out even though I'm doing the work to take it out. I just can't justify paying $1000 extra for a $6000 car to stop a grind that only happens when racing on the track
I wouldn't change my tranny until it breaks. I need to install a new clutch soon(slips from too much boost) and I am still not going to swap the transmission out even though I'm doing the work to take it out. I just can't justify paying $1000 extra for a $6000 car to stop a grind that only happens when racing on the track
I guess I can wait for a good deal/low mile unit, or save for the 00A. I can imagine having the car a good 5 years, and I’d hate to wait until the last month to replace the tranny just to sell it, and not have enjoyed said tranny the entire time.
Daily driving I will wait for revs to come down and match rpm(no grind). For the 1/4 mile I will shift fast and just deal with the small grind. Hasn't gotten any worse and I've done it hundreds of times I would say. I never skip gears on the Z.
I wouldn't change my tranny until it breaks. I need to install a new clutch soon(slips from too much boost) and I am still not going to swap the transmission out even though I'm doing the work to take it out. I just can't justify paying $1000 extra for a $6000 car to stop a grind that only happens when racing on the track
I wouldn't change my tranny until it breaks. I need to install a new clutch soon(slips from too much boost) and I am still not going to swap the transmission out even though I'm doing the work to take it out. I just can't justify paying $1000 extra for a $6000 car to stop a grind that only happens when racing on the track
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