I guess I gotta do the gasket replacement thing to correct my low RPM low oil pressure problem. I been wrenching a long time but I don't recall doing this before, so I'm asking any veterans of this operation for any tips, tricks, or warnings. What am I getting myself into?

 

Hardest part by FAR is removing the oem crank bolt. At this age, it will likely require some penetrating oil on it for a few days before, a torch, and an impact with a 19mm mass weighted socket. When I did mine the starter method and the extra long extension on the floor did nothing. Plan on replacing the front main seal after using a torch on the pully.
For the replacement seal, get the metal seal and the socket head bolts instead of the phillips bolts so that they can be properly torqued. Use loctite.

 

After the radiator is out for room, I have a strong impact that has never failed me so hopefully it'll spin it out. I'm just wondering about having to take the pan off, I know about the 2 bolts between it and the front cover but I'm wondering about alignment on installation.

 

I am second guessing myself again. I'm trying to figure out how to get a look at these gallery gaskets without tearing the whole front of the engine. I'm not so sure they are ruptured because there are no pending of stored low oil psi codes and anything off of low idle the pressure goes to 30 or so and 4000 ripms will see 60 psi. Car belonged to my late BIL and I found a dealer oil change invoice about 1000m ago and it is 5-30 Mobil One. I'm thinking it may not like this erl.

 

If I remember correctly from the fsm, you should have 14psi at warm idle, 43psi at 2000 rpm and 56psi at 3000 rpm as an absolute minimum. You can take the cover off of the front behind the belt on the passenger side and get a borescope down in there to inspect most of the gasket, but it sounds like the gasket is your problem. When my hr is fully hot (turbo, 190k miles, stock engine with new gallery gaskets 90k miles ago) I have 30psi at idle, 55 at 2000 and over 60 psi at 3000.

 

I'll get a borescope in there and see what I can see. I think first I'll confirm oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.

 

You won't get codes till your oil pressure is WAY too low. Mine was 12-14 at idle and 35ish at 2000rpm and had both gaskets mildly blown out.

Don't worry about alignment of anything the cover has dowel pins and the bottom oil pan doesn't matter much for alignment I don't remember any issues with mine. It will make the job longer but I highly recommend just taking the front of the car off. Bumper, lights, crash support rad support and headlight supports. You can swing the AC condenser out of the way without disconnecting any of the lines.

It was also recommended in another thread to get a small brake pad spreader to help pop the front timing cover off. There are two larger tabs near the bottom of the block that allow for easy prying. This way you don't need to try and use a gasket cutter.
This style is supposed to work.

 

I sure do preciate the input boys, I'm not looking forward the the operation. I just sent the ECM to Z1 for cruise and fuel reflash, when I get it back I'll do the physical oil pressure test and we'll go from there. Confidence is not high on this one.