Cubby door latch fix (if you have a 3d printer)
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From: AL
Cubby door latch fix (if you have a 3d printer)
I have no idea where to post this, so feel free to yell at me if I'm in the wrong place.
My busted cubby latch was driving me crazy, and I wasn't about to spend $150+ on a new cubby. Turns out all the plastic bits that make up the mechanism seem to be very durable EXCEPT for the part of the latch that you can see. Its a different more brittle plastic, and all the screw holes had sheared off of mine, making it almost impossible to open the door. So, I made a 3d model of my old latch and printed a new one. Works great so far, but time will tell how well it holds up.
I'm too lazy to sell it, so here you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099438
Pro tip 1
There are 7 screws that hold the back plate on. The first 5 are easily visible when looking from below, but the last 2 are incredibly difficult. They're at the farthest point in the back of the panel, and up where you can't see them. You'll need a mirror, a magnet to catch it, and some luck. Or just rip the whole center console out, that works too.
Pro tip 2
Use filament that is rated for heat. Standard PLA may melt in the car.
Pro tip 3
The little sprint that pushes the latch posts away from each other IS NOT SECURED INTO THE HOUSING. It will launch its self across the room if you aren't careful. And no, it does not make any sound whatsoever, even when landing on hard floors.
Cheers,
Brandon
My busted cubby latch was driving me crazy, and I wasn't about to spend $150+ on a new cubby. Turns out all the plastic bits that make up the mechanism seem to be very durable EXCEPT for the part of the latch that you can see. Its a different more brittle plastic, and all the screw holes had sheared off of mine, making it almost impossible to open the door. So, I made a 3d model of my old latch and printed a new one. Works great so far, but time will tell how well it holds up.
I'm too lazy to sell it, so here you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099438
Pro tip 1
There are 7 screws that hold the back plate on. The first 5 are easily visible when looking from below, but the last 2 are incredibly difficult. They're at the farthest point in the back of the panel, and up where you can't see them. You'll need a mirror, a magnet to catch it, and some luck. Or just rip the whole center console out, that works too.
Pro tip 2
Use filament that is rated for heat. Standard PLA may melt in the car.
Pro tip 3
The little sprint that pushes the latch posts away from each other IS NOT SECURED INTO THE HOUSING. It will launch its self across the room if you aren't careful. And no, it does not make any sound whatsoever, even when landing on hard floors.
Cheers,
Brandon
Last edited by bjbosco; Jun 28, 2023 at 01:04 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 3
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From: AL
Same here, and I'm just now starting to realize the potential. My project is going to be the damn plastic grommets that the door screws mount to. Those things are $6 a piece, and everywhere that sells them also has like $8 shipping. Cost me $20 for 2 of these parts that probably cost them $.30 total to make.
Plus my Z emblem on the back strut bar is broken from the car heat, so I'll do that one too.
I always avoided 3d printing because they always looked so terrible with the layer lines, but I'm just now realizing that with some effort you can smooth it over and make the part look OEM.
Plus my Z emblem on the back strut bar is broken from the car heat, so I'll do that one too.
I always avoided 3d printing because they always looked so terrible with the layer lines, but I'm just now realizing that with some effort you can smooth it over and make the part look OEM.
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