Man, I've been away from the forums for a couple months and came back JUST to catch up on this thread. Good luck getting her back to 100%. You don't think that something odd happened with the change in altitude and the leaner tune, do you?

 

nope, not tune related. And that altitude really is not high enough on a MAF equipped, NA car to cause any issues

 

Glad the log file helped, Adam.

That really is a stumper of a problem. It would be super to find someone with working solenoids and swap one of two of yours into their car. I have a feeling that your solenoids would work correctly.

 

we'll just keep chipping away at the problem till we resolve it, and I promise to update the solution here!

 

Well I finally had some time to sit down today with the car and the factory service manual. First time I've really had free since coming back from Z Days in fact!

Went through the std. continuity tests on the sensors and they checked out, so that led us back to it being something mechanical.

Pulled the intake manifold and valve covers off, and began looking at the chains and tensioners. With an open end wrench you can pivot the cams back and forth just enough to see things move. Both sets of cams are rotating together, but the issue as far as I can see, is that the crank is not rotating at the same time. The question then of course becomes, why? Next up I'll check the torque on the crank pulley, and also pull the crank pulley off and see what it looks like, and inspect the keyway, etc. I'll report what I find here as soon as I know it

And this is why the BEST mod you can make to your heavily modded Z, is a primary daily driver I love my Saab more and more everyday!

 

Quick update - our suspicions were right and the car should be fixed shortly...have to gather up some parts

We'll be back on the road again soon!

 

Awesome news Adam. Let's go to the Dragon now!

 

^ haha. Might have to rock the trailer up there next year.

 

lololol - I'd love to get the car back down there after it's fixed, but uggh...that drive down. It's not even that it's long - 14 ish hours isn't that bad. But my god, I 81 is the most boring road I've ever been on - it makes it tedious, even with good tunes!

 

well, the new pulley has been ordered (ATI) - should be here in a day or so. I'll get it up the machinist, have it balanced per my crank specs, and then on it goes!

 

NICE
Glad to see things are plugging a long. Maybe we can all meet up there a few days before Zdayz to BS and do some driving.

 

^ Cabin is booked from Tuesday to Sunday already!

 

Glad to hear adam!

I'll wait to hear more from you.
Since i got myself a used UR pulley...plus if it happend cuz of pulley...i'm more happy to hear from you

 

I had the UR pulley on my original engine for over 40k miles, without any problem. I will bring the pulley to UR for inspection, since they are close by to me. At this point, our best guess is that the pulley simply could not keep up with the rpm, since the keyway is very small, and there is only 1. If I were to use this type (or any aluminum pulley) in the future, I would have done a dual keyway setup.

 

What about the steel key sleeve part that people started putting KJR pulleys? I have no idea what it's called

 

I can't comment on them, as I am not at all familiar with them

mind you, I still don't think this is a bad product...it just wasn't the right piece to use for my intended use, that's all (sustained high rpm). Hopefully the ATI one will be my solution

 

Ah, understood. The piece I was talking about is basically a steel sleeve to give added protection of the key from getting destroyed

Good to know you'll be up and running soon.

 

+1

 

so the keyway on the pulley stripped? I didn't see the reason posted (I might be retarded, sorry).

 

Z1... I've been following this thread for a while. Why did you choose ATI over Fluidampr's pulley? I would think that the fluid dampening pulley would help smooth out vibrations in a high RPM setup such as yours.

???


Thanks,
Zquicksilver