Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

it went beyond "stripped" - it looks like you took the pulley and put it on a drill press There is no evidence that a keyway slot was ever even there lolol. Thankfully, since the pulley is far softer of a material than the crank. it just rounded the inner 'hub' of the pulley out, and didn't do any damage to the crank. Once that happens though, the next thing to start wiggling is the timing chain sprocket, and of course the crank seal itself. All of these components are being replaced.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

As far as I've researched, they are different means to the same end. I have zero vibration issues at any rpm point in my engine...it runs smoother in fact than a bone stock Z does, by virtue of how much care was spent in balancing all the rotating parts (down to even the clutch, pulley, etc). My main consideration for choosing an alternate pulley this time around was I want something stronger than what I had, and stronger than stock. I've seen stock pulleys literally snap at the "forks" in the center, and obviously don't want that happening.

We sell both Fluidampr, and ATI, but the Fluidampr one is currently backordered, and since ATI had one in stock, I went with that

BlackTuner

iTrader: (2)

I am glad you figured it out. I wonder if your A/C clutch is going bad.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I have to check the a/c and alternator in more detail, but just going through the normal wiggle test the other day, they felt fine

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

Thanks... I'm in and out of the "loop" on parts and was just curious if ATI was better. I'm starting to compile a list of parts for a n/a build similar to yours and creating a list of things to swap out once I pass 100k-ish.

I'm trying to cover everything for a solid n/a build that will produce 290whp+ for another 100k... wishful thinking, lol!


Zquicksilver

aggietsi

Man, glad you got it sorted out. Glad to hear she's back on the road.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

got the pulley in today, so all the parts are here now, ready to go in

crank pulley outer section



crank pulley inner sleeve/accessory pulley - you can see the keyway. All steel pulley = this thing should be strong



shown with the miscellaneous BS stuff I had to get new - new keyway, new timing chain sprocket, new bolt for pulley, new crank seal, and a bunch of o rings for the front cover



The way it works is basically you press the smaller diameter "inner" section onto the crank, and then bolt the larger, outer diameter to it. Secure with the crank bolt, and viola.

Stock crank pulley measured 5 lbs, the new ATI measures 5.4 lbs, so nothing noteworthy there. The outer section of the ATI (with the logos on it) is aluminum, the inner section that rides on the crank is steel. According to my math, the crank section is underdriven by 30% (4.5" diameter for ATI vs 6.5" diameter for stock), and the alternator is overdriven by about 13%. So I should even get a bit more headroom out of my stereo now...nice . Might even pick up a few hp at the top end too !

I'll post up the belt sizes I end up with once its on the car

Hopefully this all solves it

Oh - here is a pic of the timing chain sprocket...you can see where this would sorta be a problem. I'm amazed the car even started! Notice how much wider the keyway gap is as a result of it bobbling around. Of course all this also means the front main seal was trashed too...hence all the oil. Nothing some brake cleaner and a rag won't take care of quickly though





Again, thank god the crank is so strong...no burs on it at all, no damage to the snout, and the keyway is still in place. I think I can safely say I avoided disaster!

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

Good info, plz more info after you run them. Damm that pulley is pricyy~ lol
Thank god my Used UR pulley running strong lololol ( only 500 milies )

Jason333

iTrader: (15)

Any new news Adam?
I laughed when i saw all those Nissan baggies!

Very glad this is a straight forward deal.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

been WAY too hot to work on the car....we'll get to it when it cools off a bit

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Can't be that hot in NY Prob. be 50 tomorrow

Chris

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

I can say this about the ati. It smoothed out my idle from the ur pulley and the ac still blows cold as stock. I got lucky on mine, ebay brand new $200 shipped.

Jason333

iTrader: (15)

LOL I hear ya man. I WISH we would cool off again. Brutal here until October

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

that's certainly a great #...but I don't have a stroker, and I've also learned not to compare one dyno to another a long time ago

As for their build being cheaper, I'm not sure what you're basing that off of, since my car has alot more done to it than just the engine. If you are talking motor work alone, I bet you're wrong - I'd guess that we are both at roughly the same amount. Putting sleeves in, which the BC stroker requires you to do, is not a cheap process, neither is good headwork.

But def. props to them....hopefully the NA stroker we're doing eclipses it

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

In addition, the Brian Crower kit is definitely NOT cheaper than Adam's build.

Hoooper

iTrader: (5)

the tq curve on that thing looks teribble. sure it makes a good deal, but whatever happened to a flat curve? thats camel humped worse than ive seen in a while, disappointing that with a stroker they dont really get effective tq. peak #'s arent the whole story

also wanted to point out to dropped, thats on a dynapack and its reading REALLY high, just look at the before. it was making 280 whp, with what? a spacer, intake and exhaust? i dont think so

blasian

iTrader: (29)

Don't stock Z's dyno around 220s on a DD anyway?

Hoooper

iTrader: (5)

thats 370 "hub" hp since its a dynapack, read at the axles with the wheels off. it reads high, but the actual isnt 40-50 less, the actual here is probly 350ish, just like the before actual is probly more like 260-265

PS: i agree, dick move and an ignorant one at that

not sure what a stock DD or 220whp has to do with anything...

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

no, that is hub hp, thats just how the dynapack screens show it. But since we have no idea how that dyno is calibrated, we have no idea if its high, low, etc. I know on my last run done at TXS, its setup exactly like the Dynojet down the block

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I was just going to point out the same thing, but since we don't know what he used for headwork, cams, etc. He has a higher torque # but my curve looks way better, without increasing displacement or stroke. Also fwiw, that is a revup, where mine is a DE, so again, differences once again.

Last I checked, I didn't do this build, or write this thread for it to be a sword fight Good luck to them, seems like a nice project