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DIY total N/A backyard build

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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #81  
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You need the ARC intake tube

sick build bro.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #82  
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Did I miss the final dyno numbers? What did she put down?
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #83  
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final numbers are in another thread titled 295rwhp/258tq and I took the car down the 1/4 yesterday and ran a 13.297@108.14. I have a 3" maf housing and will be getting the car retuned. I am also going to build a set of longtubes for the car with 1.75" primaries and 2.5" collectors but that is going to take a while. But so far almost 2k on the build and it hasn't used any oil and its not making any odd noises.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 07:50 AM
  #84  
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Nice Build..

Good luck on hitting those 12's.. SHould not be a issue with your power lvl.. Nice build..

Throw some 4.10 gears on there and have your redline bumped with the tune..

Congrats
Todd
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by 1cockyZ
Show me where the DC's on the car are coming up short, this is the problem with everyone and there just amazing knowledge of this engine and making N/A power. I have unported heads, stock maf, 264cams(not 272's) and this dyno reads a stock de at 233rwhp. The price differential between the dc's which are made very well and stainless and the crawfords is $700. It cost me that much to tune, when you do your build and are spending your money let me know how it all it works out for you. How big and how much longer are the crawford primaries being you're so well informed. Then go on youtube and check out the headers cosworth used to do cam testing.
All I'm saying is since you went all out why not go all out on the headers too? And believe me, I've spent MORE than my fair share of $$ on a Z. And before i reallized the pointlessness of an N/A build I actually did buy a set of crawford headers.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #86  
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The crawfords are probably better but not so much better they warrant purchasing. I already had the dc's. If you look I spent the money on the engine, the exhaust/intake parts I can swap out at any time. I can and will fabricate longtubes for less $ than crawfords. Besides those new tomei v2 headers are sexier than the crawfords and feature a 60mm collector and have larger primaries. Unless I am wrong and the crawfords have 1.75" primaries and 2.5" collectors, if thats the case then woops. Its just sad that for under $600 you can buy really nice stainless longtubes for a v6 mustang and sg wants between $1800-2200 for theirs not saying they aren't beautiful and effective but I don't like getting bent over because I purchased a Z. BTW supersprint headers for a e46 m3 aren't even that much. next mod is 3.9fd and a nismo diff for the car and tune the 3" maf setup I put together which is for a newer v6 mustang, yup same slot style maf sensor. Pics tomorrow.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #87  
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1cockyZ - Which ECU did you end up with and did you send it for tuning before the dyno?

Those are great numbers from a home garage build which is testament to your knowledge and assembly skill and of course a great engine to start from!

BTW, I also stuck with 264 degree cams and although I have the added variable timing control, HKS F-Con Vpro ECU and some other variations in my build, still only managed 320rwhp and 263rwt on the dyno. Not a lot more really.

My tuner at the HKS Technical Factory figures from experience with a lot of tunes, that this engine in 3.5L N/A form can only use 264 degrees of cam with close to near perfect efficiency and anything bigger is detrimental in some areas across the whole power band. The gains you might get in one range are offset in the other ranges. In summary, I'm beginning to think that much larger cams may not be best for the VQ35? (I have been wrong before!)
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:50 AM
  #88  
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It was tuned using the uprev protuner. My heads just have a valve job and zero port work(if you want to consider the hand blending of the valve job port work then they have port work). The tune was done on 93 octane pump fuel. Cam choice only determines where you want the engine to work. The 264's don't give up anything over stock really. But after doing a lot of research choosing cams is not easy. I used the ones I have because I got them cheap and they are a decent all around grind. My car is 6 years old and I would have hoped by now that every single build combination N/A would have been done, but fi definately went in that direction and I don't blame them big power is intoxicating.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:56 AM
  #89  
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well something to keep in mind is the market for Mustang parts in general, and headers in particular is exponentially more than it is for Z's. Same goes for the Supersprint stuff for the BMW. For them, it's a mass produced part. The #'s simply are not there in this community to justify mass production of a long tube header so the one SGM does is essentially made to order at this point. Very labor intensive, and as such, it comes at a premium price. When I priced out doing a one off header from a well known local place that specializes in this sort of thing, I was given the same $2000 ballpark figure. That's using a Burns collector, and all stainless piping, and flanges. So while SG's price is expensive, it's fair relative to what it is.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 08:23 PM
  #90  
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I totally agree as the whole process is just so labor intensive. The parts to make the sg headers are about $900 in collectors and flanges without labor, developement, or piping. If you check out the new tomei headers they are a bargain considering. But I can tack weld and know a professional welder so thats that. I really enjoy working on the car, building this engine was fun for me. I am an undiagnosed ocd type. I posted up that headerdesign site and its funny but with the numbers I punched in I came out with the same length primaries as sg used about 28". To keep it cheap I am going to use 1.75" because I found a diy collector kit. I am pretty sure they will kill my dc's performance wise and I am going to leave enough room for a metallic cat to go in front of the flange that attaches to the y pipe and before the bend upwards to meet the collector. Just for all the people who look at longtubes and think no way with emmissions and smog. So longtubes that are just as clean as shorties with hfc's. Adam did you try kooks they are close to you and there stuff is really nice. BTW I can't wait to see what you get out of those itbs, even if the numbers aren't that much higher the throttle response will probably be amazing.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 04:23 AM
  #91  
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Yes, Kooks is who I visited - we've used them extensively in the past for one off stuff on our own cars, and always have been happy with what they turned out. For now, I decided to leave the header change for last, as I've got other things I need to get done.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 12:21 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 1cockyZ
I totally agree as the whole process is just so labor intensive. The parts to make the sg headers are about $900 in collectors and flanges without labor, developement, or piping. If you check out the new tomei headers they are a bargain considering. But I can tack weld and know a professional welder so thats that. I really enjoy working on the car, building this engine was fun for me. I am an undiagnosed ocd type. I posted up that headerdesign site and its funny but with the numbers I punched in I came out with the same length primaries as sg used about 28". To keep it cheap I am going to use 1.75" because I found a diy collector kit. I am pretty sure they will kill my dc's performance wise and I am going to leave enough room for a metallic cat to go in front of the flange that attaches to the y pipe and before the bend upwards to meet the collector. Just for all the people who look at longtubes and think no way with emmissions and smog. So longtubes that are just as clean as shorties with hfc's. Adam did you try kooks they are close to you and there stuff is really nice. BTW I can't wait to see what you get out of those itbs, even if the numbers aren't that much higher the throttle response will probably be amazing.
In CA we have a visual inspection as well as emissions test... even with cats welded in, this set up would not pass smog inspection.

I love the idea and certainly not poo poo-ing! If I didn’t live in the People's Republic of Kalifornia, I might consider long tube headers.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #93  
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Wow I knew it was tight but damn. I should have remembered I read an article about carb a long time ago. My car passed with gutted stock cats and the engine was burning oil badly this past november. No cels so I passed how f'ed is that.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 03:41 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by 1cockyZ
Wow I knew it was tight but damn. I should have remembered I read an article about carb a long time ago. My car passed with gutted stock cats and the engine was burning oil badly this past november. No cels so I passed how f'ed is that.
LOL! That’s awesome!

In CA it doesn’t end with the smog techs - these days law enforcement is getting even more stringent on "modded" cars - creating problems road-side... I don’t drive my G much - but from what I'm hearing I'm afraid to take it out at all even driving civil you still stand a chance of problmes

You guys are lucky you get to play with fast cars are not have issue every which way.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 07:40 AM
  #95  
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How's the intake plan going? Any status on that? Thanks!
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 11:16 PM
  #96  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcCd7...eature=channel
Go to about 3:40 in the vid and turn the volume way up! I ran the evo down and believe it or not was pulling him on the straight, it was a modded evo X. I AM THE BLACK Z THAT GOES FLYING BY

Last edited by 1cockyZ; Jun 2, 2009 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 08:02 AM
  #97  
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Very cool......sounds good.
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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So that wasn't you with the in car? The z that fleeeeew by was you?
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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So that wasn't you with the in car? The z that fleeeeew by was you?
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Old Jun 2, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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Sounds sick. Nice way to chase down an evo
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