Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I have way too many projects going on right now. I am in the middle of a bathroom re-model, just started building deck and this TB project plus working 60+ hours/week. I should not have started so many things at once...

Anyway, I should have a couple hours to tinker with it tonight. I hope to at least get the car started and idling stable with good AFR.

 

Welcome to being a home owner, haha

 

Ain't that the truth. I've been here 6 years, but as of the last 9 months, I have been sinking a lot of money and time into upgrades.

 

The codes I was getting were P1122 and P1121.

So I messed with it more last night. I got it started again and running better but its running too lean. I looked back at the MAF table changes I made and it looks like they went back to stock.

Does anyone else have this issue with the Uprev software? I made the changes, saved the ROM then flashed it. Basically I went back into that same table and everything looks like it went back to stock. I am not sure if my changes are being flashed or not or is the software supposed to revert the table back, but really your changes got flashed.

 

yeah that has happened to me also a couple of times with uprev. Don't know what the issue is with that.

 

That makes it incredibly difficult to troubleshoot not knowing if your changes were really applied.

 

surprising that uprev hasnt made a tool to open the rom thats currently on the ECU. I switch DTC's on and off and its hard to keep track of what tune is actually on the ECU.... '

but i digress..

When you have it running, will it take throttle? Do you have video's what the TB is doing while you hit the gas?

What tables are you adjusting? just the drive force table for the TB?

 

Initially before I adjusted anything with the TB I was messing with the MAF table since the piping is so much larger. This whole time I thought it was flashed to my changes and I don't think it was because when I pulled it up the OEM values were in there. That threw me off. I don't really know if my changes took or not.

I don't let it run long enough to get out and take video. It's running really lean which tells me the TB is open too much and taking in too much air or the MAF sensor is reading the same amount of flow as before but not adding more fuel because the table was never adjusted like I thought it was.

Thoughts?

In the TB table, yes I am adjusting the driving for value. I presume that is just a unit that transpires into a voltage level?

Thanks for all the comments guys. Like I said, this is a huge learning curve for me so anything helps. I am learning so much doing this too.

 

For those whom have already made their custom intake tube for this mod, does anyone know what the angle of the bend was?

45º? 22º?

Or was it just eye-balled?

 

I think I used a 45.

 

Thank you very much sir.
By chance do you happen to remember the length of the tube you had bought?

 

The angled pieces I didn't have options on size. The pong straight piece was a 2ft piece that I had to cut.

 

Load your old tune from before you changed the mafs diameter. Now find out how much the mafs area increased, in percent, versus your old one. Multiply your K Value by this percentage. Done. You don't need to screw with your mafs table, at least at this point.

 

That's what I attempted to do initially. I found the percentage difference in size and multiplied the old K value by that to get the new K value.

What I found though is that when I pulled it up again to look at it, it was all the OEM values, so I am not sure if it even flashed my changes.

 

I played around with it some more tonight. It seems that any change I make has pretty much no effect. I think I may have it wired incorrectly. I just purchased a PNP harness from one of the members on here. Going to check his pinouts against mine.

The changes I am making are just the low RPM and low voltage fields just to see if I can get it to idle.

Looking forward to trying this PNP harness.

 

if you are adding this tb AND adding the 4" maf size at one time you are likely to have issues. i recommend only chaining one thing at a time. get a coupler so you can run 4" on stock tb and get that where it runs correctly THEN do the big tb. That will save you at lot of tuning hassle imo.

unless you are a osiris pro tuner or something. lol

 

I was just thinking about trying that. I may try that.
I am no pro tuner by any means. I am very new to Uprev.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Any and all are welcome. I just want to get this working.

 

Well I played with it more tonight. I can get the car to idle steadily now, but its still running incredibly lean. Reading the AFR while its idling its at like low 20's. That can't be right. I increased the values on the MAF table thinking that it would add more fuel to the engine, but it doesn't seem to make a difference at all.

I add negative values to the TB table to try to close the blade more and again seems to change nothing.

I am going to take it all off and put the OEM TB back on and somehow mate it up to the 4inch MAF and tune that MAF separately.

To be honest, I seem to get more reaction out of changing the MAF table than anything. I feel like I get nothing from the TB table.

I'm open to more ideas.

 

Are the voltage values for the ls TB the same as the voltage values for the Nissan?

 

I doubt it. This is not from an LS though.

One of the other strange things is that I flopped the 5V and ground wire because I found on multiple threads the LS TB ping outs are exactly the same as what I had except those two were flipped. I flipped them and I am actually getting some throttle response out of it now. Very touchy and quick to respond. So I am not 100% on the wiring.