The only knoledge I I have of tuning is what I studied for Nistune for my old 240. You are using a caddy TB right? Are the caddy values low or high compared to the Nissan values for the TB

 

Did you try the pnp harness from Surratt?

 

I believe the voltages are a little higher when at rest, but not sure about the rest.

I did try the pnp harness. I compared the pin outs on his and mine and there were three pins that were different. I hooked it up that way and it still seems to behave the same.

This is why I am having a hard time figuring out the wiring. I don't want to spend a ton of time with Uprev if the wiring is wrong. I am at work right now, but when I get home tonight or in the AM I will post on here what I show for my pin outs and what info I have.

 

If you're trying to bring the idle down, you need to do the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure. If it works like I think it does at idle, the idle control functionality in the ECU takes over the throttle and it doesn't read from the map when rpm are low and the pedal is at min. Idle is a closed loop function, and can't be changed with just one value in a table.

I hope this IAVR works, by the way. I've been looking at the resting position on this TB. On Nissan TBs there is an adjustment. On this GM one there is no adjustment. You can cut/file down the stop, but this will prove to be tricky to get right.

 

Software nightmare...

 

You got that right.

I am going to put the stock intake back on and just adapt it to the GM TB so I can use the stock piping size. This way I can just work on the TB and not worry about the MAF for now.

 

Got some good news. I put the stock MAF piping back on and connected it to the 87mm TB. I flashed back to the stock MAF table and it runs. It starts up great, idles good and AFR is where it should be. I did not use SurraTTs harness, but I did wire it up exactly how he has his pinouts which are different than mine.

The engine revs up fine to 3k RPM but will not go higher. Even with my foot to the floor it stays there. Now, is this because I need to add more voltage to the driving force or something else? I was wondering what the difference between motor 1 and motor 2 do. Does one control half of the opening or so and the other one control the 2nd half? If that is the case, then I am wondering if one of them is wired wrong.

Either way, its 10 times better than before. I think I am going to mess with getting the TB to work through the RPM range now that it is stable and then work on the MAF and piping.

I may not have many updates for awhile. I have some other work I need to do to my car before my next race and I need to get started. I need to get the car dynoed too which means putting everything back to stock.

I took a video on my phone but I am not sure how to upload it to here other than posting to youtube then a link ???

 

Not saying this is the issue, but when I put eBay tail lights on my 350z, the voltage was wrong and it caused ABS and cruise control problems, it also made it a pig to drive and I would not be able to rev over 3k rpm and had a real lazy rev limiter. This problem does link to the TPS, so you may have off voltages from the TPS of the new TB.

 

The Motor1 and Motor2 lines are both to the single TB motor. For positive opening force, it holds one at ground and starts PWMing the other. For negative force, it does the opposite. This is a pretty standard reversible motor, and it's basically how electric windows have worked for decades.

If you can't rev over 3k rpms, check and clear your codes. There are several codes that will put the TB control in limp mode. Also, you will need to do the throttle relearn procedure or the codes will come back.

 

Thanks guys. I actually did do the throttle re-learn and idle air re-learn. I will get to it more soon. I am just glad I am getting somewhere now.

I have to work on my deck the next so many days that I have free time. I need to get that finished so I can get crankin on my car.

 

Thanks again for linking Fixxxercask, will subscribe

 

More good news!

Not sure what put the car in limp mode, but leaving the battery disconnected for a couple days cleared it. I hooked everything back up today and fired it up with the intent to troubleshoot and it fired up. The AFR is good, no codes whatsoever and I can rev to redline. The car runs pretty much how it did with the OEM TB on the car. The only issue I see is that when its cold the RPM drops really low and almost stalls at idle. Once its warmed up though its not as bad. This can be fixed with a little bit of tuning, but I am not really concerned with this because my car is not street driven and when I'm driving it, I am WOT most of the time. So basically this TB is nearly PNP. I used SuraTT's wiring pinouts that are on his harness so they for sure work. Again. NO CODES. I am getting really excited now.

So now I know the TB works, its time to figure out a plan to get the MAF back to 4" along with the 4" intake and get that working, then we are in business. It will then go back to mw9 for custom plenum fabrication to mate this TB with no bottleneck.

 

Bring it on!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Congrats, Dom!

 

Nice work dudes. I hope there are good results for the vq powerband.

 

This seems to be making some good headway now! Long as the car can use osiris it looks like this 87mm tb can work just fine!


If anyone needs the pnp harness to this GM tb contact me. I stock them.

 

Just showing what the harness looks like

 

Got the 4" MAF and 4" intake back on tonight. I had to add quite a bit to the values in the MAF table to get it to idle well with good AFR. I was able to rev up to about 3k before AFR started falling out.

I will quickly hit the 65535 number long before I get to the end of the MAF table. Someone had said to scale the whole table which I tried and the car ran like crap. I can only get the values so high and have them steadily climb. At the rate I am going I will be at 65535 by 3.5 volts and the able goes to 5 volts. I think I am going to have to start messing with the fuel tables which I am not so sure about.

Thoughts or suggestions? I thought about getting the PMAS MAF and using their transfer function tool.

 

It isn't so outlandish that you may need to tinker with the fuel tables, more air does equal more fuel, man I would have been on this like lohan on coke if I still had my 350z, I bet I could have pushed 320+ out of it with this... I really am stuck on your thread

 

soo if you can idle with good AFR and give it some rev up to where you ran out of adjustability with the MAF Table

once this is done and you want more room, do this;

If you’ve had to raise the MAF values so high that the table is maxed out you can give yourself some more head room by raising the K value via multiplying it and then multiply the entire MAF table by the inverse of that value. For example, multiply the K value by 1.2 (120%) and then multiply the ENTIRE MAF table by .8 (80%). The end result is that the vehicle will run exactly the same, but you will have more room to raise the MAF table.

Ive done this a few time on my 370z and it does work fine and then I tried this on my new setup ( Vq37HR *HR head on VHR block*)
You will have to fine tune the updated MAF table but it should be relatively close