stevev58

Hey all. Bought my Z used 3 months ago with 18k miles. Now I am have 21k and it is time for her first oil change. I am planning on doing it myself. What weight of oil is recommended and which brand do you guys prefer???

Thanks

zand02max

iTrader: (22)

Click here,

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/197329-the-top-100-common-questions.html

Q: What kind of oil should I use? What brand of oil and filter is recommended?

A: The owner's manual suggests using "dino oil", that is, non-synthetic. Your engine takes 5 quarts of oil when you change the filter (and you should always change the filter with the oil). Recommended oil change intervals are 3750 miles. Try to stick to this, or keep it under 4k miles at least. There is not much benefit to changing your oil more often, unless you track your car or put it under extreme conditions frequently.

Some owners have reported excess loss of oil using synthetic such as mobil1. If you are not sure what to use, stick with regular old dino oil.

There is more misinformation about motor oil floating around than just about any other topic. For excellent and honest oil information, search these forums: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

[A short anecdote]
For example, some people STILL seem to think Pennzoil is a known "sludge maker" due to its paraffin (wax) content. Similar comments have been construed about Quaker State. Some people claim you could not PAY them to put pennzoil in their engine. Some even have called Pennzoil "Pennzsludge Beeswax" or some other clever variation. In reality, IIRC, all motor oils (at least dino oil?) are paraffin based. Paraffin, when warm, is a liquid. You couldn't get wax to form sludge in your engine if you tried. Sludge does not come from wax. Sludge does not come from pennzoil. Period.
[/A short anecdote]

From my experience in reading up on the above mentioned forums, here is the general consensus on motor oil:

Almost any dino oil is about the same. (Anyone who disputes this fact has clearly not read up enough to know what they are talking about.) Motor oil undergoes rigorous testing and quality control. Make sure it is API "SM" and GF-4 rated for top quality. You will find almost all brands of oil are SM/GF-4 rated... Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol GTX. If you are going with dino oil, you should feel free to buy the cheapest SM & GF-4 oil you can find. There is no benefit to being loyal to a brand (many brands are manufactured by the same parent company). There is also no harm in switching between brands. The only advantage to picking one brand over the other is their slightly different "additive packages" in their oil. For example Havoline has a higher molybdenum content, which is due to MoS2 (molybdenum sulfide) which is a good high-temperature lubricant. This makes Havoline a popular dino oil brand for those "in the know," but in reality, any SM/GF-4 dino oil will be fine to keep your engine running smooth. Me? I used Pennzoil 5W-30 on my last oil change. Who knows about the next one?

As far as filters go, mobil1, K&N, Wix, Napa Brand, Nissan OEM, Purolator should all be fine. Stay away from FRAM. There is sufficient data to support that FRAM sucks. I personally use the K&N HP-1008 filter, available from performance nissan. Don't forget to change that copper crush washer on the drain plug!

If you are going with synthetic, I have not used synthetic yet myself, so I can't speak volumes about it. I can, however, tell you that AMSOIL comes more highly recommended than just about any other brand. There is such a thing as synthetic BLEND (part synthetic, not fully synthetic). You might consider using a synthetic blend instead of full synthetic, if you're concerned that full synthetic may burn or go missing.

Also the general consensus is that if you want to switch to synthetic, do so well after break-in, or when at least XXXXX miles are on your car.
Edit: I just got my oil analyzed at the 10k mile marker. It turns out at 10k miles my engine is still breaking in. I now recommend you wait until at least about 15-20k miles before attempting synthetic, but that's just my opinion...

Remember, oil related failures are VERY rare. So, go with what you like! But please stick to the manufacturer's recommended viscosities: 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40.


***************************
Editorial Note
***************************

My last oil change was done at a 5k mile interval, and everything looks fine. 5K is a little too much though, and the viscosity started to breakdown (10W-30 pennzoil). Next time I'm going to change the oil at about 4k miles.

Information can be found here about my used oil analysis.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/215900-a-5000-mile-oil-change-interval.html


Q: I just want to use the BEST OIL AVAILABLE. PERIOD.

A: Motul 300V. Knock yourself out.
http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=4032

stevev58

where???

Reality350

iTrader: (25)

Thanks zand02max,

Great post.

Cheers,

R350z

stevev58

Thanks Dude!!

zand02max

iTrader: (22)

Mobil 1 5W-30 FTW!

Jose2008Z

iTrader: (3)

mods, can you make this a sticky?

Thanks

NissanZfan

iTrader: (3)

UMM...Let me say something so I can refer back to this page through my previous posts.

UR NZWY

Is it necessary to remove the bottom panel to change the oil?

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

+1

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

I remove it. It would be tricky to do it with the panel left in place.