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You may want to get some M24 washers under the castle nut on the 370Z axles so the castellations actual engage with the split pin. I picked some up from McMaster Carr when I did my 370Z axle conversion.
That probably would have been a good Idea... Right now I guess the pin will at least keep the nut from rotating off completely.
Originally Posted by GreyZ
Where did you get your 370z axles and hub parts from for the swap? I am looking to make that swap soon.
Oh I picked up the bearings and axles from rock auto, generally where I go for most parts that I can get away with.
I swear I didn't get notifications of new posts this time...
Some very new and exciting stuff, replaced the steering rack after my power steering kept going in and out and then would work fine after she was hot. Also swapped the serpentine belt, the tensioner and an idler pully while I was in there, heard intermittent issues could have been slippage but my issue was the rack itself.
Also ripped out the "breather kit" I installed a while back as the filters were dripping tiny amounts of oil and I got to smell the burn, it was driving me crazy along with being a bit dangerous. First catch can set I ordered from ADD W1 and they sent me a G37 mounting bracket. They knew it wouldn't work and sent it anyway, that was an experience. Installed the Mishimoto kit that actually came with instructions and mounts, it looks really nice. Plus an oil change at about 127k miles! Next one she will be at 130k!
Hoping to repaint my winter wheels in the next few weeks.
So the car had been leaking oil from the valve cover I replaced. I swore at myself for buying aftermarket, bought an OEM set off Z1 and...
Realized my oil leak was self inflicted. Spark plug wells looked perfect with the rock auto valve cover, turns out using RTV to hold this in place, especially on the passenger side is a really good idea. Getting to be pretty quick at getting down to the valve covers now, took my time getting the new one in place this time! Good news is that these should last another 100k miles without issue.
Last month I got fed up with my Samsung tablet, damn thing was so slow and buggy. Found a way to mount a way faster 10" Teclast tablet by taking out the 3d printed cradle and mounting this tablet holder, looks like complete *** when I take out the tablet but can't tell when It's in there, so much better to use and should have done it a long time ago. Also using a bluetooth to RCA adapter I had laying around so all I need is the USB-C if I want to charge the tablet.
Realized my oil leak was self inflicted. Spark plug wells looked perfect with the rock auto valve cover, turns out using RTV to hold this in place, especially on the passenger side is a really good idea. Getting to be pretty quick at getting down to the valve covers now, took my time getting the new one in place this time! Good news is that these should last another 100k miles without issue.
Last month I got fed up with my Samsung tablet, damn thing was so slow and buggy. Found a way to mount a way faster 10" Teclast tablet by taking out the 3d printed cradle and mounting this tablet holder, looks like complete *** when I take out the tablet but can't tell when It's in there, so much better to use and should have done it a long time ago. Also using a bluetooth to RCA adapter I had laying around so all I need is the USB-C if I want to charge the tablet.
nice work buddy ! keep it up
Last edited by joelle king; Sep 27, 2022 at 08:13 AM.
About a month ago I decided I wanted a second key for the car and after reading some $2-300 stories decided to go a different route. Installed the ghost key from JDi and have been very happy with it. The only issue was getting the lock cylinder off, what a pita that was, nothing like the easy videos of the G35 install, had to basically drill the security screws out blind.
So finally gave the Z some love this weekend, new versions of the same headlights I first bought. I also removed the old eagle eye LED's as they seem to last about a year before a couple of them start flickering and looking stupid. I would love to find some high quality ones but all of them appear to be very cheap in quality, tried to help them out by caulking where the glass front meets the metal ring to help prevent water intrusion but that did basically nothing.. Have some new rear calipers to install along with some new Fortune auto 500 series coilovers to replace my warn Hotchkis springs and Tokico blues, who knows how many miles are on those bad boys. At some point this summer I'll pull the front bumper again and paint it, did a terrible job prepping the first layer of black, the gray paint is peeling right off of it that was a dumb mistake. Was hoping to purchase a supercharger kit this spring but unfortunately does not make financial sense this year, maybe next year...
That's quite a transformation! very good job, thanks for sharing it here.
Thanks and I absolutely love sharing the progress. This is my sanity car, every time I hop in it and drive home I have a smile, no matter how rough a day it was or even if I am worried about something, just melts away for the drive.
So my week long project has been Installing fortune auto coilovers, poor car has been up on quick jacks since last Saturday. I had thought about air and glad I did not go that way because I found a massive amount of issues under the rear of this car and spent a good chunk of change replacing parts. First off all the eccentric bolts on the back of this thing were seized. So much so that both spring buckets had to be cut off. The scariest thing is that the nut half of the drivers side rear eccentric bolt was just gone, the corrosion was all that was holding it together, and doing a decent job I will say. So ordered both camber and traction arms from Z1 with eccentric elimination kits and a handful of bolts (already ordered the spring bucket replacements with the fortune auto coilovers) and an drivers side rear upper control arm from rock auto. The drivers side was a **** show, snapped an upper shot mount and the lower shock mount was permanently seized in the bushing so I ended up ordering a whole rear knuckle from eBay (traction arm was frozen on this side too). So today I was installing all the new parts, fixing the broken strut mount and installing the new calipers when I realized the standard mounting bolts don't work for the rear Brembos... Down the street to O'Reily and they let me stand in the caliper bolt aisle opening each bolt box and checking the size, those guys are awesome, it's H823 if you need to know, about $14 for the set of 4 which happens to be 1/2 of what Z1 wants. Then I realized the damn dust shields are too small for the Brembo rotors so the lip came off those. Got everything mounted up loosely for now and last thing I did tonight was change the Diff fluid @ 137,387 with some Redline 75W90. Tomorrow I need to do the Oil and drop the car to see how the coilovers sit, then tighten everything down, can't wait! Also some Fortune Auto extender measurements - Outer sheath ~2 3/4", inner rod ~3 3/8" and they sit great. On with the pics!
Shiny new coilovers POR Seized Knuckle just gone and arms loosely installed, bit of a hack on the traction arm removal Rear Brembo bracket bolts Making room for extenders Extender sizes Extenders mounted
Thanks and I absolutely love sharing the progress. This is my sanity car, every time I hop in it and drive home I have a smile, no matter how rough a day it was or even if I am worried about something, just melts away for the drive.
totally relating to that, dude. I just shared a similar thought on my own thread about how this is a great distraction and it keeps me sane.
So my week long project has been Installing fortune auto coilovers, poor car has been up on quick jacks since last Saturday. I had thought about air and glad I did not go that way because I found a massive amount of issues under the rear of this car and spent a good chunk of change replacing parts. First off all the eccentric bolts on the back of this thing were seized. So much so that both spring buckets had to be cut off. The scariest thing is that the nut half of the drivers side rear eccentric bolt was just gone, the corrosion was all that was holding it together, and doing a decent job I will say. So ordered both camber and traction arms from Z1 with eccentric elimination kits and a handful of bolts (already ordered the spring bucket replacements with the fortune auto coilovers) and an drivers side rear upper control arm from rock auto. The drivers side was a **** show, snapped an upper shot mount and the lower shock mount was permanently seized in the bushing so I ended up ordering a whole rear knuckle from eBay (traction arm was frozen on this side too). So today I was installing all the new parts, fixing the broken strut mount and installing the new calipers when I realized the standard mounting bolts don't work for the rear Brembos... Down the street to O'Reily and they let me stand in the caliper bolt aisle opening each bolt box and checking the size, those guys are awesome, it's H823 if you need to know, about $14 for the set of 4 which happens to be 1/2 of what Z1 wants. Then I realized the damn dust shields are too small for the Brembo rotors so the lip came off those. Got everything mounted up loosely for now and last thing I did tonight was change the Diff fluid @ 137,387 with some Redline 75W90. Tomorrow I need to do the Oil and drop the car to see how the coilovers sit, then tighten everything down, can't wait! Also some Fortune Auto extender measurements - Outer sheath ~2 3/4", inner rod ~3 3/8" and they sit great. On with the pics!
Shiny new coilovers POR Seized Knuckle just gone and arms loosely installed, bit of a hack on the traction arm removal Rear Brembo bracket bolts Making room for extenders Extender sizes Extenders mounted
*****, I love seeing a car brought back from the brink like this. you know you don't need the rear spring buckets with the fortune auto coilovers? they are true coilovers in the rear. you don't need the buckets anymore. you will need the toe arms to fill in that space.
*****, I love seeing a car brought back from the brink like this. you know you don't need the rear spring buckets with the fortune auto coilovers? they are true coilovers in the rear. you don't need the buckets anymore. you will need the toe arms to fill in that space.
Wow, I just read through your "cleanup" second thread and am totally impressed. Looks like a ton of work you have been putting in over a short period of time! Sadly for me the 2 kids ands wifey means a bit less money but she's supportive of my hobbies (of course all of them expensive) and frankly an awesome mother, so I lucked out there.
Yup, the toe arms I bought months ago after I ordered the coilovers, had no idea the bolts would all be seized and garbage though!
I can't wait, in just a few hours she'll be on the ground, just an oil change and probably about an hour of messing with the height of the coilovers. You don't happen to have any measurements between the 2 lock rings on your setup do you?
i don't want to steer you wrong by guessing, i want to say 10" but i was measuring from the top, at the mounts. Don't remember exactly. i can measure it when i get home in a couple hours.
i hand tightened the spring rings then added 1/4" of pre load.
i don't want to steer you wrong by guessing, i want to say 10" but i was measuring from the top, at the mounts. Don't remember exactly. i can measure it when i get home in a couple hours.
i hand tightened the spring rings then added 1/4" of pre load.
No worries, she's done!
And in case someone wants a good baseline I measured between the collars for the Fortune auto coilovers: F - 4 5/8" R - 2" for my final resting spot for now.
Well, dropped the car off in July go get the gallery gaskets done as I had a coolant weep coming from the water pump and figured I had pushed my luck far enough with those. Replaced the radiator with a nice aluminum CSF one along with the thermostat but the tiny leak persisted so I figured it had to be the water pump.
Poor car was gone until about a week ago, not really happy with the timeframe nor the $4k cost but she's got a nice laundry list of new parts now and I am finally confident I could go play on the track with her and not worry. So I had a new Z Speed stage 3 street w/Billet Steel flywheel sitting around for a potential supercharger and since the mechanic was doing the rear main seal (almost without telling me) I had him put that in too. She's got a new serpentine belt, gallery gaskets, timing chain, cam chains, all guides, tensioners, water pump, a Stillen lightweight crankshaft pully, and an oil pan spacer with an oil pan. A lot of stuff that just made it easier to button her back up with new parts, a while you are there pile of stuff! Annoyingly they forgot to bolt the exhaust back up after the mid pipes, missed a ground connection, and routed the front wiring harness in the wrong spot so I had to take it all back in order to mount my under shroud. Unbolted my ground connection and the AC discharge pipe blew off the condenser and scared the **** out of me, ordered a replacement from Z1 for a coupe hundred bucks, ouch.
With this being gone for so long it gave me opportunity to fix the giant flaked off paint spot on the front bumper and finally decided what to do with the rear wheel well rust. Ordered some Nismo rear fender flares from Nengun in Japan so I plan on cutting out the rust and mounting these, much better than my original idea of the full quarter panels. A little nervous about just hacking off around the rear wheel wells but in the and the rust has gotten behind the rolled lip and I don't think I have much of a choice.
Either way I am just super happy to have her back on the road again. Good timing because my Cayenne decided to start misfiring at the end of last week too so one project down and another pops up!
Ok, more fun stuff. So I was thinking about a way to update my steering wheel while retaining the airbag for safety and inspection purposes (NH can be brutal). I found the Vicrez steering wheels (OHC Motors) and just couldn't resist with a 15% off coupon. So I did that and finally installed my MEH gauges at the same time. I had a few issues with powering the wheel and finally found it was a poor ground. Now it is stable and doesn't power down during acceleration or sharp cornering. Not sure how useful it is going to be but it is pretty fun to look at for now. Shift point can be changed for whatever RPM range you want, plus brightness with a few other options. At first I was wondering how I would get used to the fact that the wheel is so thick but actually it is very similar in thickness as my F150.
Hi friend, I bought this same steering wheel and the only thing I need to know is which wire I should use to connect the white wire coming from the OBD module that came with the wheel. I understand this white wire provides extra power to the LEDs and the horn. From what little I've been able to find, it comes from the clock spring connector, but I don't know what color it is and I'm also not sure if this is the connector I should pull the cable from.
clock spring connection Clock spring connector steering wheel obd module
Here is the white wire that I need to connect to the horn in the clock spring wire to give it a boost power. I got this information from the tutorial