What did your wiring issue end up being? Just curious.

 

For why my car wasn't starting? I originally thought it was a faulty IPDM, it had all the symptoms, but replaced it multiple times and it did not fix it. It was actually due to a fried ECU. I was able to find one on ebay, same exact everything for like, $75. I took it to the Nissan dealership and they reprogrammed the ECU for my keys for $125

 

So, for you to fill the bottle you need to remove it from this ninja install or can you remote fill it?

 

What was the overall price for everything? I really want to do this..

 

It's been a really long time and I hunted down deals when the forum was still pretty active, but here is the breakdown:

Dynotune Nitrous Kit
Bottle Warmer
Purge Kit
Remote Bottle Opener
Dynotune Window Switch
-$480 new, someone was trying to do a quick sale on the forum, i sold the the window switch for $75

Dynotune Round switch Gauge
Dynotune Bottle Pressure Gauge
$100 used

Crawford Z gauge holder
-Free

Harris Speed works Microedge
$125, on sale I think

Threaded blow down tube
$30

Wing nut adapter
$5

Innovate Wideband w/ Display
$250 i think

Labonte W/M kit
$275 - military discount

I don't remember how much the triple insulated hose or the filter was. I have a bunch of jets I bought throughout the years. I bought a nano kit but sold it.

So I would estimate around $1500 or so for my entire setup. I am running about a 140 shot, 57N/26F jets. The microedge has rich and lean cutoff. The lean cutoff works great. With the w/m, this is pretty safe. I am not tuned and when the nitrous activates, I do not see the ecu pulling timing at all and my afr is around 11.5-11.8 or so.



I need to remove it. It's not too bad. I am planning to remount it where the spare tire used to be. i am trying to re-balance the weight since I took out the spare/tools, and have a mastergrade hatch, I have no weight in the rear.

 

So a couple updates to my setup to keep the nitrous forums going. I picked up one of 1cockyz’s modified upper plenums and a 75mm maxima throttle body.











I also replaced my wickedcas glove box subwoofer for a zenclosure understrut box. I remounted my nitrous bottle to the spare tire area. It’s not as stealth as before, but I did this for a couple reasons. I have a Mastergrade CF hatch and removed the spare tire/tools, so the weight is much less in the rear compared to before. Second, adjusting the angle of the nitrous bottle will help the siphon pick up the most nitrous during acceleration. I was unable to get it straight, but it is still at a much better angle than before. Having the bottle in the rear makes it easier to fill up. Not only that, but the sub sounds a lot better.





The blow down tube was making the hump too big, so I bought a 90 degree -8an fitting to make it straighter.





Everything closed up







Setup is not as stealth as before, but still kind of hidden. Next up is a 3 inch Mishimoto induction tube and I am working with a shop to make me a 3 inch ID Maf housing.

 

Nice setup. I really like nitrous, it really woke up my car for not too much.... i didn't get deals like you though, I paid a little more ☺

 

Nitrous is a great bang for buck, even doing nitrous super safe is cost effective. Too bad there aren't a lot of Zs doing nitrous anymore.

 

So just an update. I was redoing my wiring and noticed that I had my water/meth tapped into the wrong wire, which means it never activated while on nitrous. I was running a 57N and 26F jets with no tuning or timing retard, which is really scary, engine could have gone boom. Will update once I have everything done right. Things I am currently doing:

3 inch MAF
3 inch Intake tube
W/M injection during NA

Another issue with having the bottle mounted in the spare tire area is heat. After awhile, the bottle PSI was around 1200 due to the radiant heat, I will have to add additional heat protection around the muffler.

 

Wait so the maxima TB and intake port are larger and mount right up to the 350?

Cause I have a maxim in my local scrap yard. I might just run and grab the TB and port if that's the case haha

 

Yeah, it is very cost effective, but I have found it to just be too much of a pain in the ***, and without a progressive controller of some kind, it is just not as fun as other FI -- no partial throttle boostin', etc.

Saving up and selling random junk in order to go turbo, myself. Sorry, Baka . Do keep the thread alive though, I always check it when you post!

edit: after posting, I was thinking about just what is a pain in the ***, and I decided it is largely based around having to remove the bottle to fill it, and the fact my local shop is pretty busy so I tend to drop the bottle off and pick it up later, and don't wanna inconvenience them by asking to fill when I randomly show up. If there was just like a N2O gas pump where I can show up, fill it, swipe a card and leave, I might keep it!

 

I got mine from 1cockyz, so I don't know all the details. It was manifold and tb together:

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/6...xima-tb-3.html

Once I paired the manifold and tb with a 3 inch intake and 3 inch maf, i gained around 2-3mph on my NA trap speed.


Thanks absurd, there really is no more activity in the nitrous forum. Having the driveability of NA isn't bad either though. I have a pretty decent shop near by that I can just go and fill up my bottle whenever I want, so that helps. There is like, only 2 or 3 places in Jersey now that fills the bottle.

Anyways, here are some updates from this past season.


Having the bottle mounted in the trunk caused heating issues. I saw bottle pressure around 1200psi. So to combat this issue, a couple things needed to be done.

First, I plasti-dipped the back of the exhaust heat shield



Then I added adhesive aluminum heat shielding foil


Third I added gold reflective foil. I also added the silver and gold foils directly onto the frame.


Last, I added some insulation, has some heat shielding and noise blocking properties.


]

Another project I did was adding another nozzle for the water/meth. This one is independent of my nitrous w/m. It is on its own controller so I can run it in addition to my nitrous or have it run N/A. I have dual solenoids also.

Current Jets are 58N and 26F. Thinking about going higher, but that is the danger of nitrous, so easy to keep going up. Car is still untuned and w/m is the safety. The nitrous controller also has lean/rich cut off, so its been pretty good.

Additionally, I changed out the stock intake pipe and maf housing. It is now running a 3.1 inch mishimoto intake pipe and a Z1 3 inch maf. I also added the EPS tuning open breather conversion kit.





How the engine bay looks now, still pretty stock looking, which has always been my goal.

 

Love it!

 

Thanks Conway, I am still working with it.

One issue I had was my Devils Own methanol injection failing. It was only setup as a backup or running NA. The good thing is that they replaced it with no issues, so we will see how it holds up. I have been running a Labonte meth solenoid for almost 10 years now and it is still going strong.

Anyways, I am not sure if it is the increased amount of Tq or the multiple 2 step launching, but my stock clutch is finally slipping. Its at 42k miles, I believe I installed the nitrous around 27k or so. So I picked this bad boy up, Exedy Hyper Twin Carbon-R clutch.







Hopefully this puts all the tq down and help with my launches.

 

Good thread and read !

Thank you for keeping it update with your build$

 

Post back with how much of a difference that clutch is

If its harder to geta roll or too stiff. I was looking at one of those.

My fear when I upgrade my clutch is going too stiff and strong and making my 1st gear commute rolls awful.

 

without a CJM pedal those clutches are miserable to daily. I have the carbon triple, and it was painful and almost impossible with the oem pedal. way stiffer thank stock and grabs like an on/off switch.

 

Thanks, not a lot of of activity in the nitrous forum, so try to keep it updated. I put this on:






I just picked up the Z today with the exedy twin carbon-r twin plate. I already had the RJM rev 4 pedal at 75% installed, but this is not a daily-able clutch, luckily mine is not a daily.

The clutch is stiff, makes lots of noise, very small engagement window, and shocks the transmission during shifts. I stalled a lot. If you were set on getting the exedy, get the one with the damper, at least it will prevent the shock and lower the amount of noise, but it is a couple hundred more expensive.

I will be adjusting my RJM to maybe 100% and will report back.

 

If you adjust it to 90% for break in, after 1000 miles you should be able to turn it down to like 80%. with the RJM pedal I am able to daily mine without issue. Though the pedal changes as you drive it depending on heat. in stop/go traffic it gets stickier.

Lots of great information in this thread. I am still debating between nitrous or single turbo. Think a built high comp vq could handle 250+ shot of direct port nitrous?

 

Which one did you have? I have the twin plate carbon-r. I am getting a crazy amount of squealing when I engage the clutch. I replaced the throwout bearing and pilot bushing when the clutch was done. Changed my rjm to 100%, I'll see how it is tomorrow.

Anyways, not a lot of people have done nitrous that high here. You will probably have to get a kinetix plenum to do a direct port. Also, you will have to spend more to get the better solenoids that can flow that much.

That is a lot of shock at once. To help mitigate that, you could go two stage progressive. Run 75 hp ramping up then 125 hp for your second stage when you are higher in the rpms to minimize the large amount of torque.

To do such a large shot, it will get expensive.