SR71

iTrader: (1)

Anyone see the new Captain America yet? Looks good, Im gonna have to see it.

SmoothZ

iTrader: (13)

I was planning on seeing that this weekend, but I got lazy and just stayed in.

306bhp is at the crank, IIRC. Not bad, but I eventually want a car with at least 300whp.

SR71

iTrader: (1)

How about this coming Friday?

SmoothZ

iTrader: (13)

Maybe. Tara and I are supposed to get together for another date night next weekend. Don't know when yet, but she and definitely want to see that movie.

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

If F1 cars uses a quaife Helical diff with all the power they have I'm sure your Z would be just fine

risenson

iTrader: (3)

Well I am bored now I think I officially ran out of things to look up for my Z. I think I have everything for my build minus ext/int stuff. I am doing the Go stuff before the Show stuff. I think everything in my profile is correct as to what I have.

Ext. plan is V3 front, V2 or V3 sides, and Shine rear diffuser. Two tone paint with black roof and lip all around car and chrome silver paint. CF HR hood and CF trunk.

Int. plan reupholster the leather. 2 din head unit and fix scratched interior parts nothing to fancy on the inside.

SR71

iTrader: (1)

NASCAR rain delay

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

SmoothZ

iTrader: (13)

You have reached the end of the internet.

jstar809

Chrome paint? hmmmmm

Be careful with the CF trunks some of them won't work with your stock struts that lift the hatch up. Might be better off leaving it if that's a problem for you.

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

Okay, the differential found in the back of an F1 car may be manufactuered by Quaife, it doesn't mean your getting anywhere near the same thing.

The problem with a Helical diff on a car that has enough horsepower is that a helical diff will always try to push more power to the outside wheel. Now, on a small underpowered RWD, or FWD car this is a fantastic thing as it will basically use the engine power to kick the rear end out.
On something that has more horsepower, at the limit, this will simply make the car twitchy to throttle inputs, and more power will defintely cause more oversteer. It also doesn't address the problem with wheel lift, or loosing traction on one wheel. If one beaks loose, a torsen will suddenly become an open diff.

Running a Clutch type diff gives you far more options.. Inital ramp, preload, and locking percentage are all variable. Throgh the clutch plates it's forcing the car to try and maintain same or similar wheel speed, and makes it far more predictable on corner exit allowing you to get on the gas earlier.

With both wheels trying to maintain a similar speed it has a settling effect, instead of the opposite disrupting effect that a torsen carries.

The Diffs in the back of an F1 car are not simply a torsen unit. They are a variable torque biasing diff with locking capabilites. Through hydrualic acutation they can effectively replicate either open torsen or full locked clutch type, and dymanically change that dozens of times a second.

How do i know all this? I've done my research and I've driven low horse and higher horsepower cars with both clutch type and helical diffs, very aggressively.

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

I saw it this weekend, easily the best non-avenger marvel film yet.
Recomended Review: http://www.escapistmagazine.com/vide...-Action-Packed

Yup, it's at the crank. Class limits are going to dictate what i can (intake, header, exhaust, reflash) and can't (go catless, ITB, bigger injectors, tune for e85) do.

Still, it's got some of the highest output in the class. There are a few other guys trying to build DEs up too, but I opted for the hotter engine for gearing and output reasons.

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

You know what tires you're going to run yet? ?

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

Yup, These:



285/30-18 Dunlop Z2s

Wrapped around these:



18x11 XXR 531s

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

How are they?? Been looking for something to replace my NT05

SR71

iTrader: (1)

here's a good thread for us MN members to keep up on.

https://my350z.com/forum/body-exteri...ut-thread.html

risenson

iTrader: (3)

Yea I talked with them thru emails they are pretty much on the way to my army drills. Going to probably sell/trade some of my stock parts I replace and fix my interior.

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

I loved the Z1 star specs, and the Z2s are even better. These are easily some of the best tires i've driven on. And I've had seat time in cars shrouded with just about everything in the top teir street rubber category.. Toyo R1R, Bridgestone RE11, Hankook RS3.. I keep coming back to Dunlops because I absolutely love the feel, and they're consistently in the top 3 of all the tire test data I've seen.

Take a look at Tirerack's testing if you're interested:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...y.jsp?ttid=172

They actually list on car-part.com too.. makes it pretty easy to search their inventory. I've got a few parts to order from them myself..

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

I think I found my next tire. Was looking at the pilot sport but damn are they expensive

Shane86

iTrader: (1)

For a summer, they're easily my favorite.. and they're the absolute top performer.

If you want something a little milder, better for daily driving but still delivering excellent grip, i recommend the Continental Extreme Contact DW
TR Link: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....remeContact+DW

They're a summer only tire with a wet bias, so they are insane in the rain.. and their sidewalls are softer so there's less road noise and smoother ride. I've got a set on my wagon for the summer and they're great for that purpose.

Basically, the Z2 will be better than the NT05, while the Conti will be about as good, with longer wear and more comfort, sacrificing the razor sharp turn in and feed back of the Z2.