I'll post pics of the splicing and e manage install as soon as it's done. Gotta set up the Nike town 5K tomorrow and do the actual race overseeing Sunday. So, it might be Sunday-Monday before I get the pistures up.

 

Finished the EU install. Wire was pretty straight forward. Having some issues with it not picking up and voltage from the crank angle sensor.

I set up the profile and started it for the first run. I threw a P0300 code. I pulled the combined harness. I found several greedy crimps were bad. They were crimped arround the unstripped wires. WTF

Stripped and crimped and stuck the the harness back in. Nw she runs great data logging, injector pulse width, throttle position, Air intake, and lots more at hand. Good stuff.

When I find my friggin memory card I'll take pictures.

 

finally got the CAS to read out. now I have rpm and timing.

I accually got to see what the missfires look like on the graph. An **** load of timing changes occure in a short time; like every 2 miliseconds. looks odd.

I think I'm getting some feed back some where because it's intermitent.

been datalogging when ever I can, so I'm scrolling through those to see some patterns of when it happens. Gonna focus on injector pulse in relation to timming and RPM.

 

Gonna look at hooking up the speed input to the EU. I just need to fing connector M19 and trace terminal 20 back. Thats the speed signal line. So I gotta take that and run it into the EU then Run the signal back out of the EU to the other end of the wire.

 

So I finally got the friggin time and did the guages. The big suk part of it is the AEM guage wire from the wide band down under wouldn't reach the a-pillar. So I had to instal the pod guage. It matches pretty well but i little fitment issues in the back. About a millimeter or 2 gap in the back half.

I couldn't find a goon "acc/ on" power source so I had to temp run to the sport harness.

Taking off the guage cluster is pretty easy. There are 4 screws on the under side of the molding. The hard one to find is under the height adjust lever; just pull the lever down and the hole is close to the back.

Pop the molding conectors, drop it down and slide it back. There are 4 bolts that hold the cluster. The hard one to find on this one is just behind the turn signal.

Pull out the top half of the molding (attached to the guage pod by screws). undo the screws, switch out the old molding with the guage pod. Before you connect the white conector. Run the guage wires through the back and out of the steering section. Roll up any extra and secure behind the knee plate.

reverse all directions, conect, the leads and poof. you got you some guages.

The EU was mounted under the passanger side dash out of the way. angeled a littel so I can look over and see the active light.

I noticed I was running lean, so I'm starting to adjust the injectors throught the RPM range.

next week the EU boost sensor, boost controler, fuel return system,walbro 255 pump, intake, turbo timer comes in and a bunch more stuff.

EDIT to avoid questions, the boost guage is not hooked up yet. just stuck it in there to fill the whole. Yeah one bad thing about the pod guages the block the use of the trip button

 

Dont use the ATI guage pods with thick bezeled guages. I know I just installed it but it was free and I wanted to see how it was. With the AEM guage the bezzel is too fat and the back of the steering wheels smacks the guage and seperates it. Tomorrow I'll buy some wires and extend the cables where they need to go on the A pillar. The a pillar sucks alitte but I can heat it and bend it a little to make it fit. Cant figure how to remove the dash. Or rather too fukin lazy to figure it out. I'll just pull the existing one, drill a 1/2 inch hole and pop a groment in it. I should be able to drop a line to and feed the wires up.

If you have or plan on using the steering guage pod use only the slim line bezels like Defi. Then it will work out. I just don't have enough slim faced guages to incorperat the pod yet. Looking at getting the 2 Defi EGT guages (L&R Banks) so I think they will go good there. Yeah kinda talking out both sides of my mouth on this one.

Side note: looks like this is turning more into a blog than a forum

 

Here is an important photo on running the wires from the engine compartment.

You have to remove the battery box lid, remove the battery trim, take off thethe trim on the lower portion of the window. There is a rubber boot that covers the hole that goes into the main cabin and comes out through the top right corner of the passenger side.

Second, if you attach any fuel management or ather item underneath the passanger side dash; there is parth of the AC unit.

Use velcro strips from checkers to attach it. They are by the register and come in boxes of 5. Scuff the plastic on the box with sand paper, then wipe clean with rubbing alcohol. The rubbing alcohol does not leave any resedue that will stop the adhesive from preforming as advertised. Important part, LET DRI!!

Line the under side of the AC unit with the hooked side completely. put the loop side of the velcro on your unit (no the electronic one ). Since the back has more down force on it than the front use more on the back.

The reasoning behind the asymetric application is with the underside completey covered you can adjust the angle of your unit the way you like it best (AGAIN the electronic one). Mine is set back alittle so people cant jus walk by and see it from the window.

 

I started preping the A pillar for the trip pod.

I reomved the stock pillar pulling back the weather striping and prying loose the clips with a plastic screwdriver.

Sand out the inside of the new trip pillar and clean out with alcohol. Let dry.

Scuff up the all contacting edges of the old A-pillar and clean them realy well. your not trying to rough up the stock pillar like the new on, its already rough. your knocking some of the high spots off the texture. VERRY important to clean the stock pillar verry well. The products used to clean/protect the plastic will keep the adhesive from bonding well. Let dry.

Apply adhesive as direct on the package and press together. Make sure you align them well because some glue's are not as forgiving as others.

After they set drill access holes under each guage for the wires. There is a pastic barrier that will slightly keep multiple wires from being ran so clip a small relief to help out. Notice the gheto drill.

Make sure to sand all cut and drilled edges to prevent vibrations from rubbing through the wires.

 

had to continue...

 

I know I'm nickel and diming this but hey my thread and I'm passing info so .

If you decide to go the A pillar route I would recomend going the adhesive route just for pure simple asthetics. The directions says put like 4 screws in or use double sided sticky tape.

I say *** that. The screws suck you can see them. The sticky tape well that Idea just sucks for any thing that is less than 3 feet from your eyes. it will leave a huge gap.

Take the time, use some clamps to set the peices and glue them togehter. I started out with a mild bonding glue. If doesn't work I'll just move up the ladder. Hey my trial and error is to your benifit. Yeah I could have just started with snot, gorilla glue, or the ever reliable JB weld.

If the over kill route was the best then would never know how little potassium cyanide it takes to kill a prisoner. Now our tax dollars are spread more wisely over death row.

EDIT: Waring don't let the trip guage pod be pre trimmed if you buy on because it will pre-suck. there is a portion at the base close to the wind shield that show the OEM A-pillar

 

I got the trip guage pod finally installed.

I'll try and do this one quick. Undo the steering colum molding, and take out the wires. Cut the sheathing then cut each individual wire seperately. If you don't you will risk blowing a fuse (if you don't disconect the battery) Strip and crimp each end of the wire. Connect the extension wire. Wrap the wire in electrical tape to help prevent chaffing.

Get a peice of wire and knot a loop in one end. String it under the dash into the steering area. Knot another peice of wire onto the loop, long enough to reach the opening with extra to hold. Wrap one connector into the loop and pull the wire through the A-pillar hole. Undo the connector and pull the wire back to the steering area with the other end of the wire. Repeat with any other wires shutteling them under the dash.

Run the wires through the holes drilled in the back side of the tripple guage pod with enough hanging out the opening to comfortably attach the guages.
Run wires clear of the clips and slide pillar back into place bottom first. Snap that in first and roll it into place. Press the pillar in and pull the weather stripping back to allow the pillar to snap appropriately.

And poof your done.

 

Here is the final product

You can see in the bottom corner where I was talking about the guage pod was cut inproperly to fit the z.

 

Looking good. . .damn, thats alot of gauges!


Al

 

yeah looks like it, an illusion though. lots of round features. the door handel and vent look similar to guages in the picture. It just adds to the roundness EVERY WHERE.

The lowest opening on the trip pod (highlighted) is open; stuffed with wires to run the fuel pressure guage. If you look closely at the colum pod (highlighted) its empty. Saving those for 2 Defi link EGT's when.

 

Sweet. I remember when I had alot of gauges in my Eclipse. Turbo was so fun. One day I was messing with the boost controller and i watched the needle go past 20psi, and it tapped the "S" in the HKS logo. Good times.

Hopefully I get to see you blast by one day.


Al

 

HMMMM geez dude...you did alot........LOL...well Im still planning my install...waiting on things.....2 weeks Im guessing..then I can start.....still need to do the part where I drink beer and plan out the little details....

 

As you see it looks like I've already done that, but you will find out the truth. There is always little things you forget. To auto tune the EU I need the Greddy pressure sensor/harnes and AF harness (just ordered). Then I need to control the boost so I can have 2 settings in the future a 450whp daily and a 550+whp for race. Leaning more towards the + side than the 550 side.

So if you count closely thats 3 fukin pressure sensors. 1 defi, 1 blitz and 1 greddy. Even if I went with a greddy guage or boost controler I would still need the seperate ones because of how they are used. Going with the Blitz DSBC II.

I also just ordered the KOYO V series aluminum race radiator to help with engine temp and ward off that nasty det demon. 2 defi EGT's to get a good look at temps on each bank. To also help keep temps down I'm wrapping the headers and exhaust turbine housing. It's kind of a bad thing when fuel is close to boiling in the lines that are close to the hosing.

Tomorrow my return sys/fuel pump, turbo timer, BOV/flange all come in. Later this week the kenetix ssv comes in, so this weekend is a big intake and fuel system build up. The Defi link fuel pressure guage is on back order.

I still have the safeguard, NKG, and TT still out. So I'm getting all the little crap out of the way so I can focous soley on the TT when it goes in.

So yeah the count now is $16.5K down

 

so my defi head unit came in today. Seems like a pretty good setup. You only need 1 wire to go to the guage and you can daisy chain them together. The data gets transfered through PFM (pure fukin magic)through the wire.

Tomorrow I will set it up to read manifold pressure and run the wiring to the guage.

 

YEAH RIGHT, got into work at 7am left at 730pm I was so drained I said PHUKET(not the beach resort in Thailand F sound not P). I figured saturday or sunday I'll run the guage head unit and hook that up. Then cut the flippin speed signal wire and fed that into my ultimate.

<ramble> It sucks we dont have more of an under dash area or a front glove box. running out of places to hide the "bodies". looking at mounting the head unit low on the drivers right knee side under dash.

The main glove box is reserved for the boost controller and turbo timmer.
HHHMMM just got an idea....

upside down on the inside of that lid? So when it opens up normaly it will be right side up and in view. only problem would be hiding the wires. I may be able to route them over the to and into the unit. I'll look tomorrow. Got a little more velcro tape.

That stuff is great, if you need to dick with some thing it's not perma mount. Strong enough to up agianst the force of a launch and if you need to run more wire just pull off and place back on.

</ramble>

 

Ok, after a long wait; and coke dibatchery, my parts are starting to come in again. So here is the AAM Spec Fuel Return System. Still waiting on the Walbro 255L fuel pump. But hey its a start. I think the pump is comming in the next few days and hopefuly the intake manifold too. If they come in together I'll install all of them at once.

So here you go.