Injected Performance brings you HALTECH PLATINUM PNP STANDALONE
#121
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I assume you can tune on the fly? ie: You don't need to stop the car to upload the map then start it again etc.
Does it resolve the issue with the throttle body not opening 100%
Can you have the MIL light flash when the car knocks. Like the Apexi Power FC does
On lift off does the RPM hold for a second or two before starting to drop or is it instant like oem
Does it have a limp mode or diagnostic check for the factory sensors
What are the physical dimensions of the box
Does it have any outputs at the moment as it states in new software update. I would like it to control my thermo fans to come in earlier
Does it have air temperature compensation
Does it resolve the issue with the throttle body not opening 100%
Can you have the MIL light flash when the car knocks. Like the Apexi Power FC does
On lift off does the RPM hold for a second or two before starting to drop or is it instant like oem
Does it have a limp mode or diagnostic check for the factory sensors
What are the physical dimensions of the box
Does it have any outputs at the moment as it states in new software update. I would like it to control my thermo fans to come in earlier
Does it have air temperature compensation
#122
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So this is a piggyback afterall??? I thought it was a complete standalone? I didn't understand why you would need the osiris to adjust the rev limiter, etc, if the ecu is truly out of the game? So let me guess, just like the UTEC, the Haltech allows the ECU to manage basic functions?
So then would it be best to reflash the ECU to gain better control when you have much larger injectors to help the stock ECU manage idle & start-up without setting off any codes.
So then would it be best to reflash the ECU to gain better control when you have much larger injectors to help the stock ECU manage idle & start-up without setting off any codes.
#123
1. Yes, it is real time tuning. No need to stop and upload new maps etc.
2. Throttle body control, along with other functions such as cruise control, traction, etc are left untouched.
3. Not currently. The Haltech engineers made great advances in the 350z's CAN system, so this is a definite possibility in the future.
4. Accel / Decel can be tuned however you like through specific maps. I prefer my cars to tip-in like stock, so I set them up that way
5. Limp Mode - I am not 100% on what you would want to trigger this, but you could just build it into the tune. For example, if a sensor fails set those fail-values to run the car very rich, or kill it if you like.
6. Size: 7.5" x 5.5" x 1.5"
7. The only output setup on the box right now is for boost control. This is a priority imo, and the engineers are aware of that and working on it.
8. Air temp compensation: Yes, it has 2 air temp compensation maps for fuel and ignition.
2. Throttle body control, along with other functions such as cruise control, traction, etc are left untouched.
3. Not currently. The Haltech engineers made great advances in the 350z's CAN system, so this is a definite possibility in the future.
4. Accel / Decel can be tuned however you like through specific maps. I prefer my cars to tip-in like stock, so I set them up that way
5. Limp Mode - I am not 100% on what you would want to trigger this, but you could just build it into the tune. For example, if a sensor fails set those fail-values to run the car very rich, or kill it if you like.
6. Size: 7.5" x 5.5" x 1.5"
7. The only output setup on the box right now is for boost control. This is a priority imo, and the engineers are aware of that and working on it.
8. Air temp compensation: Yes, it has 2 air temp compensation maps for fuel and ignition.
Originally Posted by MR RIZK
I assume you can tune on the fly? ie: You don't need to stop the car to upload the map then start it again etc.
Does it resolve the issue with the throttle body not opening 100%
Can you have the MIL light flash when the car knocks. Like the Apexi Power FC does
On lift off does the RPM hold for a second or two before starting to drop or is it instant like oem
Does it have a limp mode or diagnostic check for the factory sensors
What are the physical dimensions of the box
Does it have any outputs at the moment as it states in new software update. I would like it to control my thermo fans to come in earlier
Does it have air temperature compensation
Does it resolve the issue with the throttle body not opening 100%
Can you have the MIL light flash when the car knocks. Like the Apexi Power FC does
On lift off does the RPM hold for a second or two before starting to drop or is it instant like oem
Does it have a limp mode or diagnostic check for the factory sensors
What are the physical dimensions of the box
Does it have any outputs at the moment as it states in new software update. I would like it to control my thermo fans to come in earlier
Does it have air temperature compensation
#124
No, it is a standalone fuel, ignition, and cam timing controller that runs in parallel with the stock ecu so you can retain things such as gauges, cruise control, etc. A piggyback is entirely different in that they are designed to trick the stock ecu into meeting your fuel requirements, and ignition adjustments are just that and not specific values. I did a quick google and found this article - stand-alone vs piggyback. Give it a quick read and you will understand that this is a standalone controller, not a piggyback trying to "trick" or alter signals into the stock ecu in order to manipulate it's outputs which can be very inconsistent.
Your suggestion of reflashing the ecu to control larger injectors would work if the injectors were the only change you were making to a stock car... but most of the time that is not the case. Typically they accompany some form of FI which then presents a need for tuning, both fuel and timing.
The Haltech is in a different league from the UTEC and others. Most of the UTECs I see are setup to allow the stock computer to drive the car up to a point, then there is a transition where the UTEC takes over with 9 columns to tune. The Haltech is not that way - it has 100% control of fuel, ignition, and cam timing through maps up to 32x32.
Your suggestion of reflashing the ecu to control larger injectors would work if the injectors were the only change you were making to a stock car... but most of the time that is not the case. Typically they accompany some form of FI which then presents a need for tuning, both fuel and timing.
The Haltech is in a different league from the UTEC and others. Most of the UTECs I see are setup to allow the stock computer to drive the car up to a point, then there is a transition where the UTEC takes over with 9 columns to tune. The Haltech is not that way - it has 100% control of fuel, ignition, and cam timing through maps up to 32x32.
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
So this is a piggyback afterall??? I thought it was a complete standalone? I didn't understand why you would need the osiris to adjust the rev limiter, etc, if the ecu is truly out of the game? So let me guess, just like the UTEC, the Haltech allows the ECU to manage basic functions?
So then would it be best to reflash the ECU to gain better control when you have much larger injectors to help the stock ECU manage idle & start-up without setting off any codes.
So then would it be best to reflash the ECU to gain better control when you have much larger injectors to help the stock ECU manage idle & start-up without setting off any codes.
#126
New Member
iTrader: (7)
Thanks for that. What I was after in point 5 was if say I was runing with MAF and the sensor failed it would still allow me to drive home. An example of this was when I had my Power FC in my WRX and the MAF failed the car would not start but when I plugged in my oem ecu the car started, boost and rpm was limited which allowed me to drive home.
What do you recomened about which sensors should be used. Will factory temp and MAF be fine or should go with temp sensor in intake tube and MAP. Basically the same as my current FCON setup. Car will be making no more than 450 WHP
Michael
What do you recomened about which sensors should be used. Will factory temp and MAF be fine or should go with temp sensor in intake tube and MAP. Basically the same as my current FCON setup. Car will be making no more than 450 WHP
Michael
#127
If a primary tuning source fails, then you could switch to another (in the software) if you had a fall back. I have never had a problem with MAP sensors dying on me, so I haven't had the need for a fall-back airflow sensor.
At 450whp I would definitely recommend using a MAP sensor. If you will be running 22psi or less, the Haltech internal map sensor will work perfectly for you. Above 22psi you will need to add an external map sensor, up to 5bar (60psi). As for an intake temp sensor... If your car currently has a MAF on it and you don't feel the need to remove it, the Haltech is calibrated to use that intake temp sensor. If you don't have a MAF on the car, adding an intake temp sensor is no problem as well.
At 450whp I would definitely recommend using a MAP sensor. If you will be running 22psi or less, the Haltech internal map sensor will work perfectly for you. Above 22psi you will need to add an external map sensor, up to 5bar (60psi). As for an intake temp sensor... If your car currently has a MAF on it and you don't feel the need to remove it, the Haltech is calibrated to use that intake temp sensor. If you don't have a MAF on the car, adding an intake temp sensor is no problem as well.
Originally Posted by MR RIZK
Thanks for that. What I was after in point 5 was if say I was runing with MAF and the sensor failed it would still allow me to drive home. An example of this was when I had my Power FC in my WRX and the MAF failed the car would not start but when I plugged in my oem ecu the car started, boost and rpm was limited which allowed me to drive home.
What do you recomened about which sensors should be used. Will factory temp and MAF be fine or should go with temp sensor in intake tube and MAP. Basically the same as my current FCON setup. Car will be making no more than 450 WHP
Michael
What do you recomened about which sensors should be used. Will factory temp and MAF be fine or should go with temp sensor in intake tube and MAP. Basically the same as my current FCON setup. Car will be making no more than 450 WHP
Michael
#129
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Picture of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS on your web site.
What are the two boxes in this picture? Is the black box an interface to the ECU? I was expecting to see something resembling the normal Nissan ECU connector. Do the connectors on the bottom left hand side of the picture connect to the standard ECU output? What about input back into the ECU? Maybe the white connectors in the picture connect to the input and output connections of only the used connectors in the ECU connectors? How does all this mount in a G35? Are the downloadable installation instructions available yet?
On your website and in this thread, you mention the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS. On the Haltech site, they mention ECUs like the E8 and E11v2. No sign of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum on the Haltech site? Does the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum contain a E11v2, or is it something different?
#130
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The Haltech site is outdated with the new EMS. We helped them develop the new EMS and they stand behind it 100%. The harness is plugged back into itself for shipping purposes. The 3 white plugs go into the Platinum EMS, the plug that is going into the black box goes into the stock ECU, and the engine harness plugs into the black box. Hope that helps.
The Platinum EMS is completely separate from the E11v2 and does not share any functions, programming, etc with it. However due to time constraints, it does share the same metal box.
Picture of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS on your web site.
What are the two boxes in this picture? Is the black box an interface to the ECU? I was expecting to see something resembling the normal Nissan ECU connector. Do the connectors on the bottom left hand side of the picture connect to the standard ECU output? What about input back into the ECU? Maybe the white connectors in the picture connect to the input and output connections of only the used connectors in the ECU connectors? How does all this mount in a G35? Are the downloadable installation instructions available yet?
On your website and in this thread, you mention the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS. On the Haltech site, they mention ECUs like the E8 and E11v2. No sign of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum on the Haltech site? Does the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum contain a E11v2, or is it something different?
The Platinum EMS is completely separate from the E11v2 and does not share any functions, programming, etc with it. However due to time constraints, it does share the same metal box.
Originally Posted by __jb
Picture of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS on your web site.
What are the two boxes in this picture? Is the black box an interface to the ECU? I was expecting to see something resembling the normal Nissan ECU connector. Do the connectors on the bottom left hand side of the picture connect to the standard ECU output? What about input back into the ECU? Maybe the white connectors in the picture connect to the input and output connections of only the used connectors in the ECU connectors? How does all this mount in a G35? Are the downloadable installation instructions available yet?
On your website and in this thread, you mention the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum PnP EMS. On the Haltech site, they mention ECUs like the E8 and E11v2. No sign of the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum on the Haltech site? Does the Haltech VQ35DE Platinum contain a E11v2, or is it something different?
#131
Originally Posted by InjectedPerf
The 3 white plugs go into the Platinum EMS, the plug that is going into the black box goes into the stock ECU, and the engine harness plugs into the black box.
(The other connector on the left is for adding an external map sensor (required for over 23psi), and the two wires are for a boost control solenoid.)
#132
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
This picture may help explain. The black box in the original picture is the two harnesses you were looking for that tie into the oem wiring harness.
(The other connector on the left is for adding an external map sensor (required for over 23psi), and the two wires are for a boost control solenoid.)
(The other connector on the left is for adding an external map sensor (required for over 23psi), and the two wires are for a boost control solenoid.)
I was trying to figure out how the Haltech would mount in a G35. With the cable, it looks like you could either mount it on the back of the firewall, or maybe it's small enough to fit on the backside of the plate the ECU is mounted on. (Without cramming it into place like a UTEC.)
#136
Originally Posted by MR RIZK
When Haltech brings out the software update for the ECU will they also supply the wires and pins for the ecu plug. Looking at the pictures above there does not appear to be any provision for the aux outputs/inputs
Also, the board also has 3 CAN interfaces so things like adding a haltech dash is a plug+play affair. They are finishing a CAN input/output box which will add 32 inputs/outputs and is stackable.
#140
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It looks like the longer cables on the Haltech would help when installing it on a G35 Coupe.
When you install a Haltech on a G35 Coupe, can you relocate the main box to the footwell panel in front of the passenger side door? That would make a Haltech installation much cleaner than cramming a UTEC in next to the ECU.
Where did you mount the Haltect on wongy's G35?