sucks

check for moisture around the master too

 

I also checked for bubbles in the reservoir... there was nothing. Tried starting the car again.. it almost turned over but didn't.

So monday gonna order a new slave cyclinder, install it, bleed the clutch again and hopefully it fukin works...

 

its odd it won't start though....usually that doesn't happen unless there is a big vacuum leak. We know what it's like to be 95% there; it's happened to all of us who have gone as far with the mod plans. I was sooo close last year when we did my car, and bleeding the coolant system completely kicked our *** and it took us forever to get it sorted out. But, once you get it resolved, you'll be too busy enjoying the car to remember

 

It is weird becasue, thrusday when I recieved the car... It started everytime... then the following friday I tried to start it and no luck.. I have tried all three days since thrusday and the car hasn't started.

 

any codes?

 

No... and I dont have a obd2 scanner.

While the car was at Forged Sharif stated that the car had a little trouble starting some time but all I would have to do is crank the key for about 5 seconds and it would fire up...

 

this is retarded, but when was the last time you changed your battery?

 

Battery is on a charger at all times.... 1.5 amps is the size of the trickel charger

 

In the same way that the MOTIVE brake bleeder can pump or push fluid out to each of the brake calipers, is there an additional cap that we can maybe purchase that would fit the clutch fluid reservoir to help accomplish the same thing? Perhaps this might be another option to make the bleeding process easier?

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

That is weird......because everything you have listed has happened to me and it was cured by the bleeding. Did you call Sharif?

 

Yes I called Sharif, we were trouble shooting with the haltech and still wouldn't start.

Just cause everyone said just keep bleeding... I spent the last hour just bleeding again.. went through another 1/2 bottle of fluid and counted 32 times of opening and closing the bleeder valve.

At this point I have to rule out air in the system... there is new fluid in there and still no pressure to return the clutch pedal.

 

I haven't studied the MT in this car but as far as I know the options are air, air, air, slave cylinder, or master cylinder. Odd that it would happen overnight. And that the car won't start. No vacuum leaks that you can find? You probably have a ton of hoses coming off the manifold - check all the T-junctions also to see if one has popped off. Check the vacuum hose that goes into the Haltech in the passenger compartment (plugs in to the built in MAP sensor embedded in the Haltech).

Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge - does it read anything? Not sure you have it wired to read during cranking or if you'd be able to tell a vacuum loss that way...

Don't give up - you'll get this figured out!

Hope you find the issue soon and get back on the road!

EDIT: See FSM procedure attached for bleeding - looks like a clear hose will be helpful if you're not using one already.

 

Dil,
You do have a hose (preferably clear) hooked to the bleeder with constant fluid against the bleeder I hope? (Holding the line above the bleeder, so the air can rise out the top and fluid stays down against the valve)

 

Just spoke to the mechanic from infiniti that fix my clutch issue about your problems. He said the same thing....he said that he had to call infiniti himself to find out what else he could do because he could not fix the problem....and they just told him to keep bleeding.

Hate to see anyone going through this...

 

Ive read about this clear hose but ... didn't understand how the process worked.

I have been opening and closing the bleeder with a 8mm socket wrench no hose attached to it, just letting the fluid dump into a can....

Im suppose to attach a hose to the bleeder, and let the fluid poor out of the hose?

 

Attach the clear hose to the bleeder and run the other end of the hose into a jar or cup with brake (clutch) fluid in it. Make sure the brake fluid in the cup covers the second end of the hose. Use an open ended wrench to loosen and tighten the bleeder.

This way, if the bleeder sucks a little as you tighten it, it will suck in brake fluid in, not air. This might be your problem. I know you don't want to hear about more bleeding, but try this.

 

Went to the dealer.. picked up a new slave cyclinder.

Installed the slave cyclinder... then bleed the clutch, I went through another can of brake fluid.. still no fukin luck.

Wait there is more bad news.... when I was tightening the bleeder screw.. the fukin screw broke , so now I have to get another FUKIN slave cyclinder.

I tried using a tube and an open ended wrench... still no luck

On another note car does start... but I just have to push the safety button with my hand to start it

 

Please give this car to someone else to fix for you!!! You've paid this much for all of your mods, but now you won't pay for someone to bleed the damn clutch for you. Come on...

...watching you go thru so much torture is killing me. I just want to hear that you got it going and what a blast it is to drive

...Enough drama. Get 'er done!!!!

 

I had a guy that was suppose to come over (a former tech at a shop here) but his fukin dumb *** never showed up and won't pick up his phone.

So now the car is shipping back to Forged Peformance...

P.S. If anyone wants to help my cause and can donate any amount of money that would be greatful!!!!!!! Just pm me!

 

Well If it make you feel any better, my car fans are crazy, they come on and work whenever they want to. Sometimes 1 works sometimes they both work. I hate these fans, I have to disconnect the neg bat terminal to turn my car off. Also my meth tune is continuing to back fire when I do crazy fast shiftsm but not to bad, just would hate to destroy a new Cosworth plenum, also when my meth is engaged at low rpms in a high gear at low speed and when boost is being built and get off the gas hard, my car goes into Limp mode and have to cycle the ignition on and off. If I knew what a pain in the *** moding this car was, I would have never done it. I am convinced that there is no shop on this forum that can build me a reliable car with 700hp for my driving style. From here on out its all about keeping the car together (not reliability). Dil I am sorry you have to go threw this pain in the *** ordeal, but I know how it feels. I know brother all promises!!!! In the end we are the ones paying the price.