When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
-To maximize boost/boost faster, switch to a 28/34 cog setup
-Yes, a Fluidamper will increase boost/boost faster because it has a bigger diameter than the stock crank pulley and spin the blower faster...an ATI will maximize boost/boost faster even more as its has an even bigger diameter than the fluidamper...limiting factor will be potential belt slip on the 2.87 jackshaft, you may want to get the TIMROD to help with that, and a super tight belt....also be watch your impeller speed and don't overspin it too much...
Oh...if you're running uprev, you WILL run out of MAF with the MAF GT...I recommend either a PMAS MAF or a bigger diameter MAF tube...
And don't be surprised if you run out of fuel on E85, even with the 1000cc, for 600whp...superchargers are ridiculously thirsty...
I haven't had any issues with belt slip yet (knock on wood), but to be practical I would imagine my setup to reach about low 500s at the moment. Rather upgrading the MAF, I'm currently budgeting my build money to save for a Haltech to remove those headaches and future ones.
A lot of my turbo friends are giving me enough beef that I'm running high compression but ... Yeah. Another though was running high injectors for sure since I know that I'll be running my limits, but I'm getting what I can before I convert to the YSi. I'm looking around but struggling to find the TIMROD setup. I'll just have to message oldman350z later about it.
I greatly recommend a standalone; its incredible how much better my tune got and how much more stable it was when I went to Infinity, in particular with the larger injectors/twin pump setup I had to go to with E85; there's only so much uprev can do.
But, no I haven't really had any issues directly related the vortech kit; my latest mod list in my 600whp thread is basically the same, except now I'm running E85, Ysi, ATI crank pulley, 2150cc inj, CJM twin pump, and AEM Infinity.
And in all my build threads, I've always had JWT S7R cams, but I only rev to 7000 rpm, which is stock redline for a revup engine.
Originally Posted by 0taku
I haven't had any issues with belt slip yet (knock on wood), but to be practical I would imagine my setup to reach about low 500s at the moment. Rather upgrading the MAF, I'm currently budgeting my build money to save for a Haltech to remove those headaches and future ones.
A lot of my turbo friends are giving me enough beef that I'm running high compression but ... Yeah. Another though was running high injectors for sure since I know that I'll be running my limits, but I'm getting what I can before I convert to the YSi. I'm looking around but struggling to find the TIMROD setup. I'll just have to message oldman350z later about it.
Originally Posted by 0taku
I'm always reading up on your builds and have you ran into any other problems with the 2.75 besides the belt slip?
Do you have a mod list? Wondering if you're still using the stock heads. Also what redline you're operating from.
If you run into belt slip, I would try a carbinite coating. If I get my car on the road and don't sell it first, I will definitely do this before mounting the vortech bracket to the chassis etc. http://www.carbiniteracing.com/pulley/pulley.html
I have a question in regards to your choice in compression. Why go with the 11.1 compression instead of a lower compression ratio like 8.1, 9 or even stock 10.1? You are gonna be revving really high with those camshafts and producing alot more boost the higher you rev. Is it safe even with the E85 at this high of a compression?
The reason I am asking for your reason is because I may be buying a 11.1 built shortblock in the future round xmas but will plan on staying on pump gas with a large sized meth spray nozzle, 100% methanol injection kit. Thanks.
Last edited by BluestreamDE; Jul 20, 2016 at 09:57 AM.
How much timing were you running on your "street tune"? Might want to get it properly tuned before boosting it this time... if you want to tune it yourself, a standalone is much easier and safer than UpRev but either is capable.
Best way to go is a 34 tooth cog on the back of the Jackshaft.
Bleeding off the Boost is a waste of time and money.
Wait, you spin yours @ 100k+??
That's pretty intense, I'd be worried my impeller would freak out.
Originally Posted by Conway_160
You will be fine stop stressing it!
Thanks, it's just after the first pop I got a bit concerned. It's my first serious build I finally pulled the trigger on since I have a daily driver now.
That's pretty intense, I'd be worried my impeller would freak out.
Thanks, it's just after the first pop I got a bit concerned. It's my first serious build I finally pulled the trigger on since I have a daily driver now.
Well the thing is there's always going to be SOME belt slip. So the calculations are always going to be higher than what the blower will actually see.
Everything is nearly complete with the rebuild and I just realized something.
I'm not sure what belt size I should go with now that I have the Fluidampr.
I would imagine since the increase isn't too great, that I could just adjust the tension on my current belt, or should I make the switch to the Gates Fleetrunner belt? If so, what size should I run?
Use a string and map it out. Then you can figure out the size from there. Pick up some cheap belts from autozone to get the size correct. Then when you get the correct size order a gates HD belt. All others are sh*t. Especially when you start spinning that blower hard. Tighten it down till its tight, then tighten some more. When choosing a belt you want the tensionen maxed all the way down and barely able to get the belt on. Then tighten it from there.