Changed Cam shaft sensor, but still same issue
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Changed Cam shaft sensor, but still same issue
Hey guys,
I’m back 😭
Anyways, I love you all and my car but I’m have the same issue again. When I drive my 2006 revup 6 speed z on the highway, after about 10-20 minutes, from my 30 minute daily drive to work, it dies for like a second. It literally feels like I’m going slow motion. BUT it’s so quick. Maybe a second? I got the code to change the cam shaft sensor on bank 2 but after buying the oem part from the dealership for 170, it’s having the same issue.
now I wanna fix it again before paying someone.
So heres some of my questions to make it quick:
is it possible the car still has the issue becsuse cause I didn’t do an ecu reset?
Do i I need to clear check engine light with an obd? New scanner just arrived today!
could it be a dying battery? Or altenator?
what steps do you recommend I take? I’m willing to take them and be active on here for future help to others!
when my cars on, the battery and oil gauge are fine. But when I turn the key just for the power to go on, but not crank it all the way, the battery gauge slowly goes down. Failing battery? Thanks
I’m back 😭
Anyways, I love you all and my car but I’m have the same issue again. When I drive my 2006 revup 6 speed z on the highway, after about 10-20 minutes, from my 30 minute daily drive to work, it dies for like a second. It literally feels like I’m going slow motion. BUT it’s so quick. Maybe a second? I got the code to change the cam shaft sensor on bank 2 but after buying the oem part from the dealership for 170, it’s having the same issue.
now I wanna fix it again before paying someone.
So heres some of my questions to make it quick:
is it possible the car still has the issue becsuse cause I didn’t do an ecu reset?
Do i I need to clear check engine light with an obd? New scanner just arrived today!
could it be a dying battery? Or altenator?
what steps do you recommend I take? I’m willing to take them and be active on here for future help to others!
when my cars on, the battery and oil gauge are fine. But when I turn the key just for the power to go on, but not crank it all the way, the battery gauge slowly goes down. Failing battery? Thanks
#4
New Member
You may also need to change the crankshaft sensor. I was experiencing almost the same thing you describe, and the fix was replacing the crankshaft sensor, after replacing both camshaft sensors (OEM from dealership). You never want to just "throw parts at a problem," but I would investigate this as the cause of your problem.
Last edited by Spike100; 07-22-2019 at 04:34 PM.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for the response!
Im not getting a code for that but you believe it could be that?
also, I’ve noticed the P0345 is back after changing that camshaft sensor on the driver side and clearing the code.
ALSO, when I turn the key, before the motor turns on, I notice the gauge slowly going down and down to like 12v. Does this mean the battery or the altenator is going out? When I’m driving tho it sits at 14~
i bought a multimeter to see if I can see anything. Gonna try to learn how to use it.
also, is it possible that just because I didn’t do the ecu reset procedure that it keeps throwing me that code? I didn’t disconnect the battery when changing.
Thank you for the help.
Last edited by Enticed; 07-22-2019 at 04:44 PM.
#6
New Member
I cannot provide a definite answer. I can only describe my personal experience. You are seeing multiple issues, which can present a plethora of confusing (and sometimes misleading) codes.
Thank you for the response!
Im not getting a code for that but you believe it could be that?
also, I’ve noticed the P0345 is back after changing that camshaft sensor on the driver side and clearing the code.
ALSO, when I turn the key, before the motor turns on, I notice the gauge slowly going down and down to like 12v. Does this mean the battery or the altenator is going out? When I’m driving tho it sits at 14~
i bought a multimeter to see if I can see anything. Gonna try to learn how to use it.
also, is it possible that just because I didn’t do the ecu reset procedure that it keeps throwing me that code? I didn’t disconnect the battery when changing.
Thank you for the help.
Im not getting a code for that but you believe it could be that?
also, I’ve noticed the P0345 is back after changing that camshaft sensor on the driver side and clearing the code.
ALSO, when I turn the key, before the motor turns on, I notice the gauge slowly going down and down to like 12v. Does this mean the battery or the altenator is going out? When I’m driving tho it sits at 14~
i bought a multimeter to see if I can see anything. Gonna try to learn how to use it.
also, is it possible that just because I didn’t do the ecu reset procedure that it keeps throwing me that code? I didn’t disconnect the battery when changing.
Thank you for the help.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
got a multimeter and gonna try to learn it
ill check the battery then altenator
if all is fine I’ll do ecu reset procedure
if not, ill do the same
from there I’ll try and post in here
if anyone has any other ideas or tests I should do then please do tell!
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#8
New Member
You mentioned you changed the camshaft sensor on bank 2. Bank 2 is the driver's side. That is the sensor that you replaced, correct? I want to be sure you did not inadvertently change the wrong sensor.
It is always best practice to just replace both at the same time Just like your headlights
Your alternator and battery readings both sound fine.
I doubt that failing to disconnect your battery made a difference. I made that mistake too and didn't realize it until after the fact when I replaced my cam sensors. It is always a good idea to do so though.
It is always best practice to just replace both at the same time Just like your headlights
Your alternator and battery readings both sound fine.
I doubt that failing to disconnect your battery made a difference. I made that mistake too and didn't realize it until after the fact when I replaced my cam sensors. It is always a good idea to do so though.
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
You mentioned you changed the camshaft sensor on bank 2. Bank 2 is the driver's side. That is the sensor that you replaced, correct? I want to be sure you did not inadvertently change the wrong sensor.
It is always best practice to just replace both at the same time Just like your headlights
Your alternator and battery readings both sound fine.
I doubt that failing to disconnect your battery made a difference. I made that mistake too and didn't realize it until after the fact when I replaced my cam sensors. It is always a good idea to do so though.
It is always best practice to just replace both at the same time Just like your headlights
Your alternator and battery readings both sound fine.
I doubt that failing to disconnect your battery made a difference. I made that mistake too and didn't realize it until after the fact when I replaced my cam sensors. It is always a good idea to do so though.
And that’s correct, I did change the driver side camshaft sensor
I just scanned the car after driving home from work(have to daily )
i got the code: p0455 evaporation emission system leak detected (large leak)
i wonder if it matters that I got a full exhaust on there or not. Anyways I plan to change the purge valve on top of the evap canister since it’s cheap. What do you think? Still confused about the camshaft sensor.
#10
Just a quick note, not strictly for the OP.
Don't use ebay sensors (I tried a couple in the past and they don't work), get nissan ones or at least a very reputable brand.
Don't use ebay sensors (I tried a couple in the past and they don't work), get nissan ones or at least a very reputable brand.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
I ended up changing my oil.
I had a friend check and he said my battery battery and altenator were fine.
After changing my oil, cleared codes again. Car hasn’t done it’s 1 second dying yet.
im not 100% if my cars ideling weird but after driving it seems like oil and battery gauges were good, as well as the rpms
i feel like the rpms could smoothin out too a bit.
i think my next plan of action is to change spark plugs.
Change the crank shaft sensor and passenger side camshaft sensor (Bc I read that they can go without throwing codes and still get bad)
and maybe fuses?
feeling like it’s time I begin to start selling my car
I had a friend check and he said my battery battery and altenator were fine.
After changing my oil, cleared codes again. Car hasn’t done it’s 1 second dying yet.
im not 100% if my cars ideling weird but after driving it seems like oil and battery gauges were good, as well as the rpms
i feel like the rpms could smoothin out too a bit.
i think my next plan of action is to change spark plugs.
Change the crank shaft sensor and passenger side camshaft sensor (Bc I read that they can go without throwing codes and still get bad)
and maybe fuses?
feeling like it’s time I begin to start selling my car
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