[DFW]: DFW's Lounge
when i was thinking of putting a system in mine, i found a 5 channel amp that would run everything. i was about the base dimension of a shoe box and about 1.5-2 inches high... but it was almost $700 alone. still toss the idea around every once in a while.. cant decide if i want to or not, already have aftermarket head unit door and rear speakers, so i would just need to do the amp and subs
Just letting yall know as there is alot of track guys here. I picked up a set of 370z akebono calipers. Was gonna keep for a project but changed my mind. I have the brackets to bolt up the the 350 or g35. You will just need rotors and stainless lines. Any one interested hit me up. They will be posted in the market place but i will give locals a better deal
when i was thinking of putting a system in mine, i found a 5 channel amp that would run everything. i was about the base dimension of a shoe box and about 1.5-2 inches high... but it was almost $700 alone. still toss the idea around every once in a while.. cant decide if i want to or not, already have aftermarket head unit door and rear speakers, so i would just need to do the amp and subs
When I had mines in the Z behind the driver side seat cubby. I took out the bracket where the bose sub would normally go.
FEZZZZZZ
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 807
Likes: 4
From: Dallas, TX
I paid $60 on a slick deal OTD for 1 box and 1 sub. I got it for the wife and she don't care about it. If anyone wants to give me $60 OTD you can have your self a $99 kicker sub and a $59 box to play with
.http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...2921&sellerId=
http://www.bestbuybusiness.com/bbfb/...ation=Overview
You can get the Alpine PDX-5 for way less than 700$. It's got a super small foot print that you can fit either in the glove box or behind the driver seat cubby.
When I had mines in the Z behind the driver side seat cubby. I took out the bracket where the bose sub would normally go.
When I had mines in the Z behind the driver side seat cubby. I took out the bracket where the bose sub would normally go.
I got a cheap kicker and 12" ported box all brand new (how bout $60 OTD). Maybe time for you to upgrade to a 12" size and get ported box in the process. I have the same box but with a polk sub in the g35.
I paid $60 on a slick deal OTD for 1 box and 1 sub. I got it for the wife and she don't care about it. If anyone wants to give me $60 OTD you can have your self a $99 kicker sub and a $59 box to play with.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...2921&sellerId=
http://www.bestbuybusiness.com/bbfb/...ation=Overview
I paid $60 on a slick deal OTD for 1 box and 1 sub. I got it for the wife and she don't care about it. If anyone wants to give me $60 OTD you can have your self a $99 kicker sub and a $59 box to play with
.http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-...2921&sellerId=
http://www.bestbuybusiness.com/bbfb/...ation=Overview
Thanks Faiz, I don't need a 12" unless it can fit in the same hole as the OEM. I might have to go to a Stereo shop soon. I hate that because I will be tempted to replace everything with Baller $hit that I don't need !
I just want to get my oem working right....I might have top rip it apart and find the loose connection.
So let me ask this......my sub will work ig you bang on the speaker housing it will come on...but then eventually it goes off....is it the Sub ? ....or the connection ? Has anybody else had to replace the sub for this description ?
FEZZZZZZ
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 807
Likes: 4
From: Dallas, TX
That will help you troubleshoot between the sub or the amp. you can also bring the sub in and just hook it up to a receiver just to test it quickly. I am not sure if you have bose or not and if you do their subs tend to be different in resistance compared to off the shelf so they work with their amps. You can always tap into the stock system via line out converter and hook up an aftermarket amp/sub combo.
chris f, i read somewhere (prob here) that it could be the facory amp, but like faiz said it might be the terminals. you could prob tap into the wires right by the amp and run new ones if you had to
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
Last edited by travlee; Jan 27, 2013 at 11:28 AM.
chris f, i read somewhere (prob here) that it could be the facory amp, but like faiz said it might be the terminals. you could prob tap into the wires right by the amp and run new ones if you had to
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
Not too sure but sounds like a loose connection to your sub maybe one of the terminals. I don't think it is the amp since the other speakers are working fine. I would go junk yard digging and try to find a speaker. Also you can test your sub by using a 12v drill battery and just touch the terminals of the battery to the sub. Make sure you take the sub out and don't have it connected to the car. Just touch the battery to the sub and it should push out or in depending if you got the polarity right. Just touch it 2 or 3 times quickly and see it move.
That will help you troubleshoot between the sub or the amp. you can also bring the sub in and just hook it up to a receiver just to test it quickly. I am not sure if you have bose or not and if you do their subs tend to be different in resistance compared to off the shelf so they work with their amps. You can always tap into the stock system via line out converter and hook up an aftermarket amp/sub combo.
That will help you troubleshoot between the sub or the amp. you can also bring the sub in and just hook it up to a receiver just to test it quickly. I am not sure if you have bose or not and if you do their subs tend to be different in resistance compared to off the shelf so they work with their amps. You can always tap into the stock system via line out converter and hook up an aftermarket amp/sub combo.
Thanks for the suggestions guys....I will try to take it apart this week if I get some time.
Where is our amp located for the sub ?
FEZZZZZZ
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 807
Likes: 4
From: Dallas, TX
chris f, i read somewhere (prob here) that it could be the facory amp, but like faiz said it might be the terminals. you could prob tap into the wires right by the amp and run new ones if you had to
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
*********
so when i bought my car it had a kenwood single din radio in it (and assuming full stereo since they tapped all the wires at the amp) well what made me mad is the factory radio had satellite radio built into it... thinking of pulling out the factory satellite receiver and see if anyone wants
it is under the black styrofoam piece to the left of the spare tire, kind of a pain to get to. only reason i know that is because when i got my exhaust i put 2 layers of sound deadening material back there so it wouldnt drive me crazy
FEZZZZZZ
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 807
Likes: 4
From: Dallas, TX
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...-location.html
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...-location.html
didnt know that.... i know the cover for mine vibrates and gets on my nerves, so i just turn the radio up more....
my hatch rattles more in the cold weather, assuming because gasses compress in cold weather... the rattling is annoying as hell, and once again i just turn up the radio
my hatch rattles more in the cold weather, assuming because gasses compress in cold weather... the rattling is annoying as hell, and once again i just turn up the radio
Lol, noobs.. 
Bose sub is known to cut out frequently until it just stays out. Temporary fix is to bang on the sub housing to make the relay inside the sub amp (located next to the sub, NOT the rear which are for rest of the stereo stuff) make the necessary connection. You can do what a lot of us have done by putting on extra pressure on the relay (gray colored when you open up the sub amp) with paper/eraser/bolts/etc, but that'll go out eventually.
People have had success with replacing the relay itself with one from Radio Shack for ~$5 (on my to do list actually). Alternatively, you can buy a brand new (or it could be refurbished) amp direct from Bose for $83. Last option would be to replace with aftermarket or OEM.
Bose sub is known to cut out frequently until it just stays out. Temporary fix is to bang on the sub housing to make the relay inside the sub amp (located next to the sub, NOT the rear which are for rest of the stereo stuff) make the necessary connection. You can do what a lot of us have done by putting on extra pressure on the relay (gray colored when you open up the sub amp) with paper/eraser/bolts/etc, but that'll go out eventually.
People have had success with replacing the relay itself with one from Radio Shack for ~$5 (on my to do list actually). Alternatively, you can buy a brand new (or it could be refurbished) amp direct from Bose for $83. Last option would be to replace with aftermarket or OEM.
FEZZZZZZ
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 807
Likes: 4
From: Dallas, TX
Lol, noobs..
Bose sub is known to cut out frequently until it just stays out. Temporary fix is to bang on the sub housing to make the relay inside the sub amp (located next to the sub, NOT the rear which are for rest of the stereo stuff) make the necessary connection. You can do what a lot of us have done by putting on extra pressure on the relay (gray colored when you open up the sub amp), but that'll go out eventually.
People have had success with replacing the relay itself with one from Radio Shack for ~$5 (on my to do list actually). Alternatively, you can buy a brand new (or it could be refurbished) amp direct from Bose for $83. Last option would be to replace with aftermarket or OEM.
Bose sub is known to cut out frequently until it just stays out. Temporary fix is to bang on the sub housing to make the relay inside the sub amp (located next to the sub, NOT the rear which are for rest of the stereo stuff) make the necessary connection. You can do what a lot of us have done by putting on extra pressure on the relay (gray colored when you open up the sub amp), but that'll go out eventually.
People have had success with replacing the relay itself with one from Radio Shack for ~$5 (on my to do list actually). Alternatively, you can buy a brand new (or it could be refurbished) amp direct from Bose for $83. Last option would be to replace with aftermarket or OEM.
didnt know that.... i know the cover for mine vibrates and gets on my nerves, so i just turn the radio up more....
my hatch rattles more in the cold weather, assuming because gasses compress in cold weather... the rattling is annoying as hell, and once again i just turn up the radio
my hatch rattles more in the cold weather, assuming because gasses compress in cold weather... the rattling is annoying as hell, and once again i just turn up the radio
My rear speaker deck rattles since underneath there is a carpet felt pad covering (bose amp/speakers/sub) that has those crappy plastic push pins and they are loose/ my 12" sub rattling the crap out of those fasteners. I need to just order a whole bunch of new plastic nissan fasteners and some sound deadening materials so I can go to town on the trunk.
Last edited by faiz23; Jan 27, 2013 at 01:19 PM.