[DFW]: DFW's Lounge
^ yep....to my knowledge autozone is the cheapest so i heard...
they order them from different places, have different contracts, etc....its a typical thing to see fluctuations like that at times....
if you read the sticky thread that VO7848 wrote on fixing the window motor you will see that banging the door simply turned the brushes to a point where electrical spark was initiated and the window worked.......
you will continue to have the problem......if you act soon you can possibly clean the motor with just some compressed air or electrical contact cleaner but after that its longevity is just a guess..........a new motor may still be needed weeks months or you could get lucky and go longer.....no telling..
-J
they order them from different places, have different contracts, etc....its a typical thing to see fluctuations like that at times....
if you read the sticky thread that VO7848 wrote on fixing the window motor you will see that banging the door simply turned the brushes to a point where electrical spark was initiated and the window worked.......
you will continue to have the problem......if you act soon you can possibly clean the motor with just some compressed air or electrical contact cleaner but after that its longevity is just a guess..........a new motor may still be needed weeks months or you could get lucky and go longer.....no telling..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 21, 2010 at 09:58 AM.
what I tried last night was banging on the door to close the windows but it didn't work so I just covered up my window with trash bags for the night..haha
I want to clean the motor first and see if it works fine after. if not, I'll go and spend the money.
it's funny how I knew about this issue so I tried the window multiple times at the dealership but didn't seem to have anything wrong with it until I got home.
I want to clean the motor first and see if it works fine after. if not, I'll go and spend the money.
it's funny how I knew about this issue so I tried the window multiple times at the dealership but didn't seem to have anything wrong with it until I got home.
you're the man!! I just did what you told me to do and it rolled back up all the way! the window doesn't come down anymore but this will do for now until I get it replaced.
I was looking into the motor and how come autozone has one for like 60-70 bucks when o'reilley sells them for almost doubled the price? is it just because of the lifetime warranty?
I was looking into the motor and how come autozone has one for like 60-70 bucks when o'reilley sells them for almost doubled the price? is it just because of the lifetime warranty?
I ran into the same thing many years back, except that mine would go up and down with this trick, it lasted me for a few weeks until I could get it in and replaced under warranty.
you're the man!! I just did what you told me to do and it rolled back up all the way! the window doesn't come down anymore but this will do for now until I get it replaced.
I was looking into the motor and how come autozone has one for like 60-70 bucks when o'reilley sells them for almost doubled the price? is it just because of the lifetime warranty?
I was looking into the motor and how come autozone has one for like 60-70 bucks when o'reilley sells them for almost doubled the price? is it just because of the lifetime warranty?
What headers do you have? What is the exhaust piping size?
At the compression arm....I would honestly say that good maintenance would be to drop the front brace....which is like 2 minute job.....(i say this for you in a salt road, ice, wet location)
Two 19mm nuts and about eight 14mm bolts and spray up compression rod shaft bolt....use a rust preventative lube, like white lithium grease spray...NO wd-40...
you can see the brace is off in this pic, and the big bolts going through the oem compression rod end in the bushing...spray up in there...prevent rust..
-J
Two 19mm nuts and about eight 14mm bolts and spray up compression rod shaft bolt....use a rust preventative lube, like white lithium grease spray...NO wd-40...
you can see the brace is off in this pic, and the big bolts going through the oem compression rod end in the bushing...spray up in there...prevent rust..
-J
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
exhaust piping is 2.5
I don't mind loosing low end power 4k below, just gaining the most amount with 4 and over.
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/508...es-for-hr.html
really thinking about these, but I want the best performance wise.
I don't mind loosing low end power 4k below, just gaining the most amount with 4 and over.
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/508...es-for-hr.html
really thinking about these, but I want the best performance wise.
Last edited by TheCanuck; Dec 21, 2010 at 02:53 PM.
I will be installing my xo2 exhaust and test pipes tomorrow, but the seller mentioned that I might throw a CEL with the test pipes. Included are some extensions for the o2 sensor bungs that he claimed might prevent it. Could anyone explain to me what to do in order to avoid throwing a CEL? thanks!
Well, I had hell removing the drivers side OEM compression rod bushing tonight!
Dammn thing was so rusted and stuck with corrosion that I had to hack at it for hours with a saw-saw, and hammer and chisel.....
Finally i got the bastardo out:
You can see the dark red/maroon rust all over the inside shaft and top section.
fun times!!
-J
Dammn thing was so rusted and stuck with corrosion that I had to hack at it for hours with a saw-saw, and hammer and chisel.....
Finally i got the bastardo out:
You can see the dark red/maroon rust all over the inside shaft and top section.
fun times!!
-J
I will be installing my xo2 exhaust and test pipes tomorrow, but the seller mentioned that I might throw a CEL with the test pipes. Included are some extensions for the o2 sensor bungs that he claimed might prevent it. Could anyone explain to me what to do in order to avoid throwing a CEL? thanks!
exhaust piping is 2.5
I don't mind loosing low end power 4k below, just gaining the most amount with 4 and over.
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/508...es-for-hr.html
really thinking about these, but I want the best performance wise.
I don't mind loosing low end power 4k below, just gaining the most amount with 4 and over.
https://my350z.com/forum/exhaust/508...es-for-hr.html
really thinking about these, but I want the best performance wise.
I will be installing my xo2 exhaust and test pipes tomorrow, but the seller mentioned that I might throw a CEL with the test pipes. Included are some extensions for the o2 sensor bungs that he claimed might prevent it. Could anyone explain to me what to do in order to avoid throwing a CEL? thanks!
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
AAM test pipes are good. With test pipes, gains will be the same no matter which one you choose. You can't mess up straight piping. What you want is quality. Also, you want to match the piping size.
The non-foulers go between the test pipe and the O2 sensor. Not being in the direct shot of the exhaust gasses apparently helps trick the O2 sensor into thinking your emissions (cats) are fine.
The non-foulers go between the test pipe and the O2 sensor. Not being in the direct shot of the exhaust gasses apparently helps trick the O2 sensor into thinking your emissions (cats) are fine.