ahahaha@ chris - sux is I have one sitting in my garage..

lmao...I got one..Kinetix too.. Hook it up holmes..

 

your car is going to be a track car, buy he guy above you's test pipes???

-J

 

Have to have at least 1 functional cat, class rules.

 

Rules...pfff........

hate that.....
-J

 

how would they know if you gutted one?

 

.....very true.........HOwever, i do know some race event circuits can and will ask you to remove, etc prior to passing you at tech...

-J

 

I agree with jason .. buy that guys TP's below... I am sure he would go 80$ on them... Also let you install and if you don't like refund..

 

I only have passenger Kinetix HFC Stephen - you know what side you need?

Beeban - how come you have not posted those on CL? I would get rid of them for a bill.. bring them to me and I will sell them for you and give you the cash if you dont want to mess with it..

 

Either one, I am just going to make a mid pipe, cut it, and weld the HFC in.

Yeah Redline is known for being strict on their Techs.

 

appreciate it bro, I moved my computer to the office. I don't want to upload photos to the GF's new laptop as I bought it for her. I feel like if I start to take over with car pictures I might make it less of a gift... I am still reaping benefits from that present!

 

Hey guys, i'm having some big issues with my car. here is what happened. I installed my new exhaust and it ran fine for a few weeks, with no issues. After a while I threw a CEL. Assuming it was one of the o2 sensors, since I had recently installed test pipes, I jacked up the car and saw that one of them had rattled loose. I tightened them up and resealed them and then reset my CEL with the pedal reset method. Now the CEL has come on again, and over the past couple of days I have taken my car to three different places to scan the CEL code. The inspection center scanned both a p21000 and a p21003 error code, but I couldnt find a definition for that code ANYWHERE. next I went to a friend's auto shop, and his scanner read two codes as well, but both were identical and said there was an issue with sensor 1 on bank 2. I have never touched this sensor, so I have no idea how this is possible, and why in the world would my ecu throw two codes for the same issue? finally I just got back from two dealerships, and neither could read the code. I need some help BAD! do I have an ECU problem???

Here is the link to the thread I started.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-ii-codes.html

 

Oh Jake.... Shes naked. Isnt that Z **** ?????

 

Thank goodness I get paid tonight! It's been a rough week lol

 

anyone selling a hks exhaust system i found one on craigslist but its old and the guy already sold it for 800

 

Follow the below steps, but just the bolded part.
Once you get to the asterisk (*) part, do as per the below post.
Bank 1 is passenger side
Bank 2 is driver's side
Sensor 1 is pre-cat
Sensor 2 is post-cat

BTW, O2 sensors are very sensitive and do go out for no reason from time to time. Most likely, all you need to do is replace the sensor, but be sure to handle it gently. You should also not power on the O2 sensor unless it's in your exhaust system with the car running, as it could get damaged.

 

At drift events I loose only a few ounces of diff fluid when the diff starts to cook....

The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........

Subframe OEM breather line:


Target hard clear plastic water bottle:


I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.

Bottle cage mounted:





I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.

To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......

REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!

I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...

This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....

Thought i would share my progress thus far....

-J

 

wow...some good info Chris..

Damn J - thats gonna kick a$$ - I wanna see it in person broski

 

Turbo Kit arrives late this week or early next.
I have a few photos of what we have done so far, but I wanna get some more before posting them. I will have play-by-play of the turbo install and answer any questions that anyone has.

 

Jason your a freakin genious!
Stephen..... BALLER!!! Lol

 

What if all drift events were like this.

FYI - they rented the track out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atlYD...layer_embedded