[DFW]: DFW's Lounge
01-07-2011, 10:53 AM
.....very true.........HOwever, i do know some race event circuits can and will ask you to remove, etc prior to passing you at tech...
01-07-2011, 11:30 AM
I only have passenger Kinetix HFC Stephen - you know what side you need?
Beeban - how come you have not posted those on CL? I would get rid of them for a bill.. bring them to me and I will sell them for you and give you the cash if you dont want to mess with it..
Beeban - how come you have not posted those on CL? I would get rid of them for a bill.. bring them to me and I will sell them for you and give you the cash if you dont want to mess with it..
01-07-2011, 11:33 AM
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Yeah Redline is known for being strict on their Techs.
01-07-2011, 11:57 AM
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appreciate it bro, I moved my computer to the office. I don't want to upload photos to the GF's new laptop as I bought it for her. I feel like if I start to take over with car pictures I might make it less of a gift... I am still reaping benefits from that present!
01-07-2011, 03:16 PM
Please help!!!!
Hey guys, i'm having some big issues with my car. here is what happened. I installed my new exhaust and it ran fine for a few weeks, with no issues. After a while I threw a CEL. Assuming it was one of the o2 sensors, since I had recently installed test pipes, I jacked up the car and saw that one of them had rattled loose. I tightened them up and resealed them and then reset my CEL with the pedal reset method. Now the CEL has come on again, and over the past couple of days I have taken my car to three different places to scan the CEL code. The inspection center scanned both a p21000 and a p21003 error code, but I couldnt find a definition for that code ANYWHERE. next I went to a friend's auto shop, and his scanner read two codes as well, but both were identical and said there was an issue with sensor 1 on bank 2. I have never touched this sensor, so I have no idea how this is possible, and why in the world would my ecu throw two codes for the same issue? finally I just got back from two dealerships, and neither could read the code. I need some help BAD! do I have an ECU problem???
Here is the link to the thread I started.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-ii-codes.html
Here is the link to the thread I started.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-ii-codes.html
Last edited by DFW Z33; 01-07-2011 at 03:34 PM.
01-07-2011, 04:10 PM
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01-07-2011, 10:59 PM
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Hey guys, i'm having some big issues with my car. here is what happened. I installed my new exhaust and it ran fine for a few weeks, with no issues. After a while I threw a CEL. Assuming it was one of the o2 sensors, since I had recently installed test pipes, I jacked up the car and saw that one of them had rattled loose. I tightened them up and resealed them and then reset my CEL with the pedal reset method. Now the CEL has come on again, and over the past couple of days I have taken my car to three different places to scan the CEL code. The inspection center scanned both a p21000 and a p21003 error code, but I couldnt find a definition for that code ANYWHERE. next I went to a friend's auto shop, and his scanner read two codes as well, but both were identical and said there was an issue with sensor 1 on bank 2. I have never touched this sensor, so I have no idea how this is possible, and why in the world would my ecu throw two codes for the same issue? finally I just got back from two dealerships, and neither could read the code. I need some help BAD! do I have an ECU problem???
Here is the link to the thread I started.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-ii-codes.html
Here is the link to the thread I started.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-ii-codes.html
You want to reset your CEL? Follow my steps as-is.
-Put your key to ON position (don't start) for 3 seconds
-Stomp on accelerator pedal to the floor 5 times within 5 seconds
-Wait 7 seconds
-Stomp and hold accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds
*if you have CEL code, it'll start blinking here to tell you which one (you count the blinks)
-Wait 10 seconds
-Stomp and hold accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds
-Take key out of ignition
-Put your key to ON position (don't start) for 3 seconds
-Stomp on accelerator pedal to the floor 5 times within 5 seconds
-Wait 7 seconds
-Stomp and hold accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds
*if you have CEL code, it'll start blinking here to tell you which one (you count the blinks)
-Wait 10 seconds
-Stomp and hold accelerator pedal to the floor for 10 seconds
-Take key out of ignition
It'll blink anywhere from 1 to 10 times slow, then blink anywhere from 1 to 10 times fast, then slow, then fast... (1 blink = "1", 2 blinks = "2",... 10 blinks = "0") So once you count the series of blinks 4 times, that is ONE code. The next 4 series of blinks are a new code and so on. It'll loop back to your first code once it goes through all the codes you're throwing.
If you're not throwing any codes, I believe it's supposed to blink slow 10 times, fast 10 times and repeat.
Once you record all the codes, click the below thread to see what that code means or use a service manual for more info:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...y-helpful.html
If you're not throwing any codes, I believe it's supposed to blink slow 10 times, fast 10 times and repeat.
Once you record all the codes, click the below thread to see what that code means or use a service manual for more info:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...y-helpful.html
Bank 2 is driver's side
Sensor 1 is pre-cat
Sensor 2 is post-cat
BTW, O2 sensors are very sensitive and do go out for no reason from time to time. Most likely, all you need to do is replace the sensor, but be sure to handle it gently. You should also not power on the O2 sensor unless it's in your exhaust system with the car running, as it could get damaged.
01-08-2011, 05:26 AM
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Differential catch can!
At drift events I loose only a few ounces of diff fluid when the diff starts to cook....
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 02-01-2011 at 04:57 PM.
01-08-2011, 10:58 AM
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Turbo Kit arrives late this week or early next.
I have a few photos of what we have done so far, but I wanna get some more before posting them. I will have play-by-play of the turbo install and answer any questions that anyone has.
I have a few photos of what we have done so far, but I wanna get some more before posting them. I will have play-by-play of the turbo install and answer any questions that anyone has.
01-08-2011, 01:30 PM
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What if all drift events were like this.
FYI - they rented the track out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atlYD...layer_embedded
FYI - they rented the track out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atlYD...layer_embedded